polkaudio

typing with one hand isn't easy...

And use a small ball pean hammer, not a heavy one. The small hammer weight has greater kinetic energy and provides a great shock to the parts when you strike them. Larger heavy hammers are for applying heavier force to move things.

You need to give more info, such as why you're looking to replace the swing arm. I have an 89 with all stock suspension except for Works front shocks and it's all good. A wheel hasn't fallen off yet. I added a 2" extension to keep the front down more than it's up. Remember it was designed for sand and dirt.

Regular paint thinner will not do anything for you. It only works when paint is wet. Paint stripper is easier, but a bit messy. Most will list on the can what they are harmful to. Just be careful around ball joints when you apply it. I assume you're just going to rattle can them. If you were going to powder coat them, you'd have to remove the ball joints. Which I would do anyway. It's not a big deal to reset the caster, camber, and toe-in after re-assmbly.

So because it's $20 less, it's a cheap knock off? Looks the same to me except for the rubber cone which contacts the carb inlet.

The brand name of the unit I have is Uni-synch and it can be bought at any shop catering to aircooled VW's. Other places call it a carb flow meter. Lots of VW buggy places on-line sell it. such as: http://www.mooreparts.com/store/category/14/73/Tools/

I'm using whatever PU came with the stator. Don't remember what it looks like, but I'll look into that. So maybe the thing to do from what I'm hearing is put the stock PU on the RS stator. But I'll reinstall the stock stator to make sure the issue goes away before that. So do you think just setting the timing back to 0 will not do anything? This was my plan after talking to RS and a couple of buddys who know 2 strokes way better than I do. Then if that does nothing, I was going to reinstall the stock stator.

I heard that too, which is what got me thinking about the stator. I talked to someone at Ricky Stator about what it's doing and the guy admitted this sometimes happens on Banshees. So I was thinking, "great, I'm one of the lucky ones". But I want to cover all bases in the event setting the timing back to 0 works. Then I guess it would be a jetting issue. Or I just leave it al 0 and be happy. But are there other stators available better than the Ricky stator piece? Also, I have the 200 watt converted to DC. Not that it's a big deal to convert one over to this.

It's hard to describe. It's as if it's trying to run but can't. At first I thought Stator too, so I'm going to set the timing back to 0 to see how it runs. If it still runs the same, then I'll put the stocker back on and see if there's any change. I expect there to be, but you never know. But as I said, from the other forum, people were saying the jetting is off to the other guy posting. People were posting you need to increas fuel supply when advancing timing. But I guess to really test that, I'll need to do a plug chop.

Reposted my question in the Jetting forum...

I have the Ricky Stator high output stator set at 4 degrees advance and it runs like crap at the top end of RPM. In reading another thread in another forum I see I have a jetting issue. I was piggy backing off that thread, but see I might be better off posting in this forum. I run straight 91. The top end is new and has maybe 10 hours on it. I do not know what the compression is, I have to check this. The pickup gapped to the recommended value.

This was for Pro G's: adjustable rebound, compression, and ride height w/ rez. When I asked about Steelers, the price was a little more. Their story was that it was because of having to use larger diameter shafts for the shock. I can't remember the persons name I talked to.

The reason I'm asking is they want about $2K for shocks. I'm looking to try and find them cheaper from other builders even though this is a custom set-up.

it all should as far as I know

I have his number too. He's sometimes hard to get in touch with. I was hoping someone here might have one of his frames and I could get the dimensions possibly a little quicker. I see you have a 9" light mounted up high. Will you PM me some pictures of the mount? I have a Vision X mounted lower on my stock frame and Dean said to mount it up on the handle bars. Is your mount custom or pre-made. If pre-made, where'd you get it?

Unless I'm wrong, this isn't the For Sale section. This should be moved to there.

You do need the link, but with a stock shock your ride will be crap. With a +6 swingarm your putting more weight on the spring than a stocker so the rear end is going to sag big time. And if it works at all, will be very mushy. You need a heavier spring rate to support the rear properly. It's all about the physics.

Because distributors usually get a bulk price from the manufacturer and are able to pass a lower price onto the end user. They make their money in bulk.

Anybody out there in HQ-land have a Dean Sundahl Banshee frame? I need to get fully extended and compressed measurements of the front and rear shocks.

I bought then sold a +2, +1 kit from Metal Tech since I'm changing frames. It was about $500 shipped to my door.

Who has the best price for plastics? I'm going to change mine to black soon. A buddy has a rear Maier. Can you mix manufacturers plastics? Or do you need to use all the same brand?

There are peeps there now, I'd get going if you really want to.

Easy Turbo, don't be a hater...

FYI So there's a night ride planned at Glamis this weekend, since there's a full moon. People from both the Glamis and Gordons' boards are going. Right now there are about 30 or more people planning on going. Some are there now and others are arriving tonight, while the rest arive tomorrow. It looks like most of this hoard are staying at Gecko and others plan to be somewhere at the canal.

Thanks everyone. I'm going to get the Cascade filters for the cans. For the Pingle, is there a specific model for Banshees?