SlowerThanYou

I knew something was wrong, LOL! So what about some time slip information? I understand that spinning badly isn't good, but a time slip still has some useful information.

Jimmy, The sand guys seem to like the higher compression for good reason. We know on asphalt that doesn't work or we haven't figured it out yet, LOL! Trying to keep a motor alive in the 1/4 mile isn't as easy as everyone thinks. Sure, just about anyone can do it, but can they be fast doing it. !/4 mile is a tuning nightmare, we actually find the tuning for shorter distances much easier for keeping the motor alive & well. As for the compression, we started with 14.5:1 & went to 16.5:1. Our quicker times was with the lower compression, with the highest mph. That's for 300', the only distance we have ran so far. We gave the calculated compression above. The 1st ones psi was 149 & the 2nd one was 169 taken at 2,300' ASL. Yes, I'm sure K&T will get it right. We are running Shearers, that are supposed to be a copy of K&Ts pipes. Except for us using silencers. I measured them, but can't remember. Anyway, they are at K&T & they measured the same I.D. as theirs. We did find our stingers were around 4"s longer.

I'm a little confused here, maybe it's because it's early in the morning! Let me start by saying the normal way or standard for weighing arm weights is using grams. I used a conversion calculator to do the math. Are you sure on 27 oz. on each finger? That's a butt load of weight, you are 5 oz. away from 2lbs of weight on each arm!!!!!! Something is amiss here.

BoyBlunder is a BS factory, he's not coming. Not that he's not welcome to come.

Sure you will, LOL!

Our annual MI. trip took a different direction for racing. We found out last Sun. that WMSD was in some type of turmoil. Everything happens for a reason. We decided to bring one of our drag cars. Plus, we are meeting up with our good friend Tedder. He's hopefully bringing his asphalt drag quads. The plan is to race at Mid MI. Motorplex in Stanton for 4 days over Labor Day weekend. We still need to make sure they are ATV friendly there, to finalize that track. I know Alcoholbanshee & Rappy97 have expressed interest in showing up. I hope this all works out for everyone involved. Regardless, we will have a good time with Family & friends. The whole purpose of the trip in the 1st place. This is the car we are bringing.

Message from Randy this past Thurs. Should be on the Dyno this coming week.

He's not & he was doing a great job according to everyone. Apparently a problem between him & the owners.

Thanks for the info, we haven't forgot about your track. Maybe next year, this sand racing is adding too much to our schedule. LOL!

WMSD is a bust for us! I can't afford to haul 1900+ miles for some type of sand race that may or may not happen. I'm still trying to work last minute plans for running asphalt with one of our drag cars or the quad set-up for asphalt. The 1st track we are looking at is Mid Michigan Motorplex in Stanton & the back-up track is Milan Dragway.

OK, I think I got something worked out. Thanks to my wife! Going to wait until this weekend to make the final decision. It has me covered for both sand/asphalt options, mom/dad covered & the HQ member's covered if they so wish. LOL!

Dave, Don't spend a lot of time on this. I have to make a decision & now the deadline in this weekend. Looks like we are trying to bring one of our drag cars for the vacation. That gives us more options for racing, looking at Milan or Stanton.

Dave or anybody in MI., I'm making my trip to MI. with or without a race vehicle. I need to now if WMSD is still going to run a race that weekend or not. Buddy has announced his PTN race will be at Cleve's Ohio for Sept. 27. I don't really care where I race at, but preferably in MI. on Labor Day weekend or the following weekend. I have to lock something in before Aug 10. Plus, I would still like to meet up with some HQ member's if possible.

Thanks for the offer, that means a bunch! It's really about my Mom/Dad. They have never seen me race & that was the point of the MI. trip; among other family & things. Windy, we was planning on being there early Fri. for T&T. If the track is doing that & a race we will still haul up there.

That would be an option, but family is 1st. I'm 51 in Aug & my Mom/Dad are getting up there. Leerjak is not practical for them.

I'm meeting up with family. I would like to go to Leerjak, but not taking a 535 in a stock frame that has never been run on 300'. Plus it doesn't fit into the classes well.

Seems like something no good went on at WMSD this weekend. Buddy is no longer the track manager. I don't know how this is going to affect the racing on Labor Day weekend. I'm not going to haul a trailer & quad if there's no place to race.

Thanks!

I have no definitive answer for the questions. I can give you some ideas & guidelines we have used. On our cub motor using it on asphalt, hill shooting & 300'. The easy answers are we used a minimum of 7,000 rpm - 10,200 rpm. The nice thing about changing the launch rpm is, it can be used for different aspects of racing. Like reaction times & changing how the clutch reacts to name a couple. Reaction times can be changed within reason by changing the launch rpm. Usually we raise the launch rpm to quicken the reaction times & the opposite to slow them down. We also tend have a higher rpm for .400 pro light & the opposite for a .500 full/sportsman tree. We also use launch rpm changes to change how the clutch reacts. This is much simpler than going into & changing the clutch setting. Usually taking rpm away, loads the clutch more allowing more slip initially. Plus, it slows down the clutch lock-up. Now adding rpm, it gets a little harder to explain. Usually what happens is it hits both the clutch & tires harder. That causes the clutch to initially slip, but the tires tend to spin. This causes the clutch lock-up to be very aggressive & locks the clutch up very quickly. Now, for the question of launching at peak hp or tq. IMO, you can set the clutch up with other things to make either work well. With our cub motor we were closer to peak hp rather than tq. With the DMX we are using the opposite to start with, but don't have enough data on that combo yet.

I want to get a LEATT, but we use our safety equipment for our drag cars & drag quads. Not so sure the Hans is right for the quad or the LEATT is right or can be used for our drag cars. Anyway, what model did you get & what was the cost if you don't mind me asking?

I had to get around to buying a new helmet & this is what I got. It has the Hans mounting points, but I'm still undecided on what I'm going to use for a neck restraint system. I should have ordered the simple neck donut, until I decide.

I consider myself a rookie at 300', but we've had some pretty good success doing it. I wish some other people would speak up with their opinions on the 300'. 1st & foremost ET wins races, plain & simple. Most of your ET comes early in the run, that's why we focus on the 60' time. Don't get me wrong we pay attention to the mph, but to us it's secondary between the two. At 1st we were under paddled running a 22x11x8 12 paddle extreme. While we ran good numbers that way. We had problems down track, spinning in 3rd & 4th gear. Plus, it was hard to shift into those gears also. My fix for them problems was a 22x11x8 14 paddle ripper. That's when we were told my many we had too much paddle. The guy didn't even want to sell me the tires, because he thought they were too much for our bike. Anyway, we ended up losing a little 60' time, but was still in the high 1.30 range. We didn't have any more problems with wheel spin or shifting. We picked up a good amount of ET in the mid track & added an easy 3 mph to our trap speeds. We also ran a 82" RO 16 paddle stg. ripper on it. The bike pulled them, but we didn't spend enough time with the set-up. All of this was run with our 443 cub in my signature photo. I considered it a small motor & it had lots of tire. We launched it at 10,000 rpm, shifted around 10,200 & went thru the 300' timers at 10,000+ rpm. We launched in 1st gear with a 2.54 ratio & ran anywhere from a 17front/39-43 rear sprockets.

This was asked in a PM & I asked if I could answer it in open forum. That's the way I prefer to answer most questions anyway. "How do you know your gearing is correct and its time to start fine tuning the clutch. 300ft sand if it matters." I'll start with the gearing & this is just my opinion. Most will know the rpm where they make peak HP if they've been on the dyno. The idea is to have the motor at the peak HP rpm somewhere around the finish line. That's in the gear you want to finish in, for 300' that would be 5th gear for most & 4th gear for some. We choose to do it a little differently with hitting the peak HP rpm well before the finish line. While we tend to lose a little mph we make up for it with a quicker ET. I'll use a 1/4 mile run as an example: our old motor made peak HP @ 9,7000 rpm. We shifted it mostly between 10,000-10,200 rpm & shifted into 6th gear before the 1/8 mile. On our best runs we would be around 10,700 rpm at the finish line. Well, over our peak HP rpm. We use this method for 300', hill shooting, 1/8 mile & 1/4 mile. The gear we finish the run is different each, except 300' & hill shooting. The clutch tuning is primarily used for the 1st 20' to 40' of the run approximately. The 60' times tells if you going the right or wrong way with clutch tuning. So, to sum it up. IMO, gearing for the most part is getting your RPM right at the set distance you are running. Clutch tuning is getting your lowest 60' time possible. NOTE: Gearing does play a factor in the 60', but we primarily use it to get our desired rpm & mph at the finish line. Clutch tuning is used to get the quickest 60' times as possible.The clutch when not right (arm weight) will affect things past the 60'. This usually shows up on the 3-4 shift & the 4-5 shift if you are leaving in 2nd gear for 300'. This will affect your mph also because of clutch slippage.

I have gotten a few questions on measuring spring height. I can't remember if I posted the piece of tubing I cut to help with the measurement. Anyway, I'm going to post it up. We cut a piece of tubing on the lathe to a set height of 1.8". The tubing dia. is 5/8 or 6.25, the inside dia. is .450. This is how it looks installed & ready to take the installed height measurement. This is taking the depth measurement from the top of the tubing/sleeve down to the inner hub standoff. You then take that measurement & subtract it from your known tubing/sleeve height to get your spring installed height. This can be done without the tubing/sleeve, but this makes it much easier to get a more accurate measurement. I know in my 1st photos showing measuring spring installed height. I showed measuring the step on the lock-up side of the spring. Most lock-ups that I know of don't come with that step. So there's nothing to measure on the lock-up. We have a Direct drive that's like that, but we are going to cut a step into the spring pads like our multi-stage.

I'm lucky to have a few PR guys in my corner. Most of the time the flag helps. Yes, the bike is from AZ., it was at Barona & it's quick.