SlowerThanYou

Maybe tomorrow, LOL!

We run a .120 dump & .120 Main with a DGH needle with bored 39 PWKs on our 643 DMX.

.120

I'm flattered that you & other's want me to attend the Circus ride. Plus, Juan knows LOL!

We are planning on picking the motor up from K&T on the return trip home from MI. I haven't made plans for when we will race it next & haven't decided if it will be asphalt or sand.

Had to mount & balance new slicks today & doing the final packing this weekend. Leaving Tues. evening for MI.

Sorry, I made the correction in the post. It was the Dyna stuff. That's the same thing I'm getting from both Kim & Randy. I'm happy they found the problem. Plus I wanted it dyno'd anyway.

We use a separate box for the shift interrupt. We are trying to decide what we are going to run ignition wise now. 1st time out with it will be with K&Ts basic tune-up. Kim said we need to change a few things from the dyno tune vs. track tune. K&T runs a programmable PVL on their 643 DMX. As for our Dyna set-up, it was proven with great numbers on our 443 Cub. I'm sure something went bad & I'm leaning toward the coil. That was the only thing that didn't get replaced at the track. As for using the launch limiter, shift lights & timed devices. We use them on our drag cars with great success & finding the same trend with 300' also.

OK, talked with Kim yesterday. The motor made x amount when it came in & is now making 55 more hp. Both him & Randy was surprised that the motor made the same power as theirs. Using the smaller PWKs & our pipes having silencers. Like I said before it was the Dyna CDI & coil that was the problem. It kind of explains why it went faster on race gas & lower compression.

BHP is delusional thinking he knows more than K&T. This is a typical small DMX. It should be pretty easy for Big Heaping Pile (BHP) to have his own Dyno sheet on this combo. He doesn't, that's why he wants to see the dyno sheet that I don't have yet. Like Randy said, get rid of that Dyna shit. He used the stock ignition & stock coil to fix the problem.

Yawn! I trust K&T told me the truth & you are dumb enough to 2nd guess them. When I get the baseline runs & the final runs with the stock ignition/coil fix. I may post the HP & torque difference between them. If you don't like that, it's not my problem. Keep on caring or lurking about what's going on in my threads, hypocrite.

Banshee HP called BS on the smaller PWK carbs making the same power as the bigger Lectrons. LOL! He's an expert over K&T, LOL again!

Don't worry, he makes a HQ Circus fool of himself on a regular basis. One day he will get a clue, but he's still searching.

5 psi is our baseline, we very rarely go below that. It becomes more of a safety issue IMO. We do raise it depending on conditions. As for the wheelie bar, most work well around 1" - 1 1/4". To high & the bike will pogo & to low it will spin.

"BANSHEE HP : (17 August 2013 - 11:18 AM) no 10mm dmx dyno numbers? it was that pathetic ehh" You have the inside scoop with all that goes on with K&T. Call them, get the scoop & post the "pathetic" numbers up. Make sure you tell them, seeing both motors made the same power. That their motor is "pathetic" also, that's not going to happen; you prefer to do your BS dribble on the keyboard. Thanks again for taking interest in my racing! I guess it's because you don't do any.

My whole set-up (including pipes), minus the dyna cdi & coil.

Talked with Randy at K&T today. The motor is all done & dyno'd & makes the same power as their 643cc DMX motor. Randy told me to shit can the Dyna stuff, don't know if the problem was in the coil, cdi or both. They said keep my smaller Keihns on, seeing it made the same power as their bigger Lectrons. I have no dyno sheet yet, but you wouldn't believe the numbers anyway. All I care about is how much & where I picked up numbers from when it was dropped off.

14-15 degrees is what we & other's run. Plus, we ran that on the hill with no problems also.

Last time out the density altitude was 7,000'+. When we take it to a good track of lower elevation, the ET drops substantially.

Without knowing the actual spring pressure at the installed height. This set-up provides nothing but a locked-up clutch on everything from around 700cc & down. Hit the nail on the head. I will try & elaborate more on Wed. if not, it will have to wait until the weekend.

Not that you don't need a stabilizer, we are looking at the bolt on one from Scotts. Remember we talked about balancing the tires, front shake is caused by the rear tires out of balance.

I keep seeing this problem with clutch tuning coming up lately. The basics of clutch tuning are not being followed & maybe I haven't made it clear. This is the order of priority for clutch tuning basics: #1 - Baseline...Baseline...Baseline!!! This means measuring your clutch springs installed height. Then you measure the spring in lbs. at that installed height. Weighing your lock-up arm weights. IMO, this is done even if you think your springs/arm weights are right or wrong. #2 - Base/static spring pressure. Start changing your spring pressure from the baseline to get desired results. You need to know what direction you are going with your pressure changes. Whether it's more or less pressure. You need the right amount of slip; too much slip or no slip is not good. #3 - Lock-up Arm Weight. The arm weight controls when/how the clutch locks-up

What pressure did you run your rear tire pressure at & how high was the wheelie bar wheel off the ground?

You are right, Ron/K&T hasn't been on since Feb.

Duh, they could care less about a bad review in the HQ Circus or from me for that matter. LOL! Heck, I don't know why they are doing it. I'm just glad I'm getting taken care of very well.