SlowerThanYou

Wow! I just talked with K&T today, they have the crank back & the motor is going back together tomorrow. That's just 6 days from finding out the crank & flywheel was fucked-up. He said it should be back on the dyno early this week. They sure do know how to make things happen fast!

X many!!!!!!!!!!! It wasn't hit & miss with our 6 transmission, It was all a miss. A 2 year old could do a better job of machining. The last two transmissions he sent us trying to make up for the first 4 tries of junk. Well, the last 2 were fucked up. I completed the machine work to make them work. The guy is plain & simple a HACK!!!!!!!!!

I've been around the block a time or two with these set-ups, LOL! Baseline, base/static pressure & arm weight in that order. You are missing the 1st two parts of clutch tuning critical basics! You get your slip with the base pressure. The arm weights control how & when the clutch locks up.

No big deal, it's our slowest race vehicle. It has won us the most money of all the race vehicles. No Joking, LOL!

Glad you had fun & good job! I know it was your 1st time. I'm curious to know where you think your tuning changes are needed? I have some ideas by looking at those 2 time slips. It would be helpful to have more information, when you get time. The 1st slip posted, the slower run. If the time stamp was correct, was after the 2nd run or the 6.71 run. You had a better 60', but something happened in the 60' to 330' range? Then it must have pulled pretty good around 330' to get the 98 mph clocking on the run.

The early style Banshee Dyna didn't have the launch limiter. I'm not sure, but the year was around 97 when it came with those 2 features.

Last time out it was running 10.40s with a naturally aspirated small block.

You & Boy Colby are the same old BS Wannabe keyboard Ricky Racer's. To busy bumping your fat ass budda bellies into your keyboard while dribbling out your call outs. Here's a clue for you 2 wannabe racer's that never want to leave your backyard to race. You have something to prove, grow some balls & take it to them. Read the signature, if you don't like it. That's your problem, not mine.

This whole deal trying to race in MI. has been a pain. When the whole WMSD deal went to an unknown. I started working on something more concrete for racing. If we are going to haul 1900+ miles, I want to make sure we are able to race. Plus, my good friend Tedder decided to tell me last minute he was planning on coming to MI. Then I started to try & find a track that's ATV friendly for asphalt quads. It started with Mid MI. Motorplex with a no, then Milan said only on T&T days & not race days. So, that didn't work out for Labor Day weekend. Lapeer Dragway said we were all welcome to race Aug 31 - Sept 2. So, when & if I get everything finalized. I'll let the few HQ member's that wanted to come, know. I understand it may or may not work out for some & may work better for other's.

Yes At least you have your name right!

I like our Hoopty car, we took about $4,000 of our last winnings with it & rolled it into our 7mm Cub. I can't help it HP is mad because our 7mm would bitch slap his 10mm into another state.

Our opinion/experience is you want clutch slip on both surfaces & hill shooting. Our set-ups are proven with low 1.30 60's on the 2 timed areas. We use basically the same set-ups for all, but run slightly more base pressure for one of the surfaces. IMO, throwing a bunch base pressure & arm weight is old school. It really takes another tuning factor out of the process. To each there own, but it's evident by a good many trying the clutch tuning. There's plenty of quicker 60's & ETs, using what other motorsports have been doing for a long time.

I'm not taking this negative at all. To me, both failures were different. The 1st one was the flywheel crank threads be twisted off while running the nut down. I've never had any of these problems before with billet cranks or my other cranks.

Yep, LOL!

Tyler put something together similar to what I requested & I'll be there. Oregon has the perfect locations for track racing & duning!

Have that root beer in MI. LOL!

That's what I knew, scared little boy with a bunch of excuses. Someday you may grow up & compete with some competition, but I doubt it.

Cam, I was joking for the most part. Not that some ass kissing on LocoHomo doesn't happen. That was just hearsay & probably not true. LOL! As for going to a ride, I would if they would set up some type of timed race to go along with the ride. I like duning, but prefer the timed race thing. It takes most of the BS out of the process. I'm flattered you take interest on what I can or can't do. It's pretty simple, get out of your backyard sandbox playing with your Tonka Toys. Hit the road & take your junk to race whomever you wish. You must be scared to do that! I haven't raced in OK, but raced close to there. Raced in TX. & LA., where was you? Must have been scared, sucking on your mommas tit or occupied with your Tonka Toys. You could have raced in Gilbert, LA. with us in 2012. It was no secret, but you are scared to be bitch slapped by some competition. Get out of your backyard & do something Boy. Then again you must be SRP or Passion's son. We can make this pretty simple. Find a track about half way in between OK & NV. I have one in mind I've been wanting to race at. We'll both put our fat asses on, ,400 pro light, 2 out 3 or 3 out of 5 race & a wager. We could pick a time next year to make sure you can get permission from your mom. LocoHomo can hold the punk out money, $300 should cover most of the fuel cost.

Crank is fucked up the keyway is totally gone. The flywheel gets lapped on all of our motors, so yes it got lapped in both times. This past time was the 1st time ever torqueing the nut to spec. Every other motor has been done with an impact gun. This crank has been a nightmare, being my doing or not. It's not the 1st billet I've had.

I think there's some confusion on what I said. I recommended starting with 6 stock springs & you have the weight right. Even with that I recommended he should check the base pressure! I'm going to reemphasize what I have talked about in the Lock-out/Lock-up tuning thread. Just throwing springs in without base lining the pressure at the installed height is like a dog chasing it's tail. Now, I did talk about a 4 spring set-up & even a 3 spring. WARNING: Less isn't always better! There are many things you need to do to make this work. It's not for the inexperienced clutch tuner!

The vast majority of Circus Member's, very rarely, ever have anything nice to say! When you have some type of timed drag/hill shooting added to the Rides, is when I might consider showing up.

I thought about going.........NOT! Your Banshee Ass Quota Ride is just an excuse for you all to have a sausage fest. I'm sure many of you will be sucking on both ends of the Great Wannabe LocoHomo.

Yes, we have a brand new oem stator & had a good used flywheel. Looks like we will pony up for a new flywheel (ouch), more duckets than the stator. We put a new stock cdi on it, but primarily use the Dyna cdi. We will find out about the stinger deal when the motor gets fixed. After the baseline runs are done. The 1st change is putting K&Ts pipes on. Yes, we have to run silencers on asphalt. Plus, I can't stand the sound/noise of open stingers. We even run mufflers on our drag cars & most of the time they aren't required.

IMO, it's dependent on what fuel & what ignition you are running. We run anywhere from .018 - .025 on our cubs & DMX. The .025 is used for either race gas or alky with the dyna cdi. We have only run the stock cdi on the DMX with alky & set the gap at .018. Forgot, we did run the DMX the 1st time out on gas with the Dyna cdi & ran it at .025.

Dyno update from K&T yesterday. Randy went to remove our flywheel to install theirs for remote starting, "I think we found a problem". Our flywheel was hard to come off. When he did get it off, the flywheel was destroyed. It had sheared the key. It also spun so bad it took out the keyway & that end of the crank. Randy is hoping to have it fixed & back on the dyno in a couple of weeks.