majicmike

put a pancake bearing or a ceramic bearing in now to prevent it from happening again :thumbsup:

I would say the 2nd chart is not a good one...........Its clear someone ported those cylinders and thats what that port job liked.I think pipe comparisons should be done on a completly stock motor unless it is a drag pipe and then the they should be done motor by motor.

If it were me I would only use 7075 myself

no none but really do not sell them you can get them from kim. Not trying to be a jerk its just something my hands are tied on :thumbsup: it would be/cuase trouble.

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yep we install all the wrap price really depends on grafix If you chose standard the price is resanable if you want something hand drawn look out its 65-75 dollars an hour and can add up quick the best thing is to find picture off the net and give them to me and we can photo shop them. Less time less money the fairys on my daughters bike were pulled off a web site.

It all depends on what you want wraped but for a standard wrap on a race face the start at $250.00 about a 1/4 of the price of paint this is a standard wrap for 250.00 this is a custom wrap with 3-4 design time and 2 hours prep ( painting the under side fixing scratches and what not) would run about $650.00

you mean like this

kims and mine are both made of 7075-t6 same as drag axles he has had no failures nor have I.

for stator cover and clutch cover bolts............. here come a hint RMATV 2.99 each side

1) who is doing your motor work some one in the wyo/colo area ? 20 You are also wasting money having them ported for a 350 if you are going to a 4mm next year IMO it would run hard unported with the 4mm crank and then port next year. I am assuming you run walden on of the fastest bikes on the hill last year was a unported 4mm but it did not run as hard on the flats.

:ninja: I use/make/dont sell them........... It is one of my little weight saving secrets never had a failure knock on wood. I know of one major builder that has them for sale but sometimes wont admit to it and his name is KIM if you know who I am talking about then were good I just want to keep it under wraps a little bit so a mx guy dont put one in.

It was a rather generalized statement and you are correct ARP does have a high standered stainless. But if you go to their site they tweek it a bit with titanum to. But anyway my rant was mainly about the low grade stainless in these kits they are not arp quality other wise the kit would reach $250 easy. I knew you would pic up on that to I should have said the grades found in these low cost kits http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechMetals.html If you go to the Quick Reference Guide and someone can prove these kits are stainless 300 then I will apologize but like I said the kit would be alot more $. Also ARP does not use stainless for main/studs or main bolts also fond in the quick reference.

he is 100% right drill and tap...............good luck! It is a pain it the but you could get a great quality basket off e-bay for $180 shipped. A tenth of the hastle IMO

This is why you are taking so much heat http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...ge/1#Post560078 read the last page

:ohmy: :yelrotflmao: :shoothead: now we know you have 3 names

IMO these kits are fine for alot of the fastners on the bike but I would not use them were my neck was on the line. I would take the time and go to the hardwear store and get a qualty grade 8 bolt or pay yamahas prices. call it over kill but when my bike comes out of the hole and stands up 2-3 feet off the ground at 20-30mph I dont want to wounder about 1) my swingarm bolts holding weight/power 2) the bolts on my shocks/A-arms holding up to a shock load if I have to set the front end down in a hurry. Also I dont like them for the engine cases. Stainless steel is a soft metal and will stretch I dont care how much anti-anything you use. These bolts (stainless steel) are not used to hold the head/main caps of car on. Also ARP is a well trusted name in the high performance bolt ind. you would never see a stainless steel head/main bolt from them. If you are to think about it the case bolts on the banshee are the crank shaft main bolts on a car........I would challage any one to put a stainless steel bolt in the mains of a 500hp v-8 watch what happens. Why would the banshee making 45-60hp per cylinder be any different. Botom line is these are my thoughts and the bolt may hold 15-20hp per cylinder but if I tripple the power out put on my motors I am useing a quality bolt to protect my investment. :thumbsup:

Where are you in OK what is your price?

hinson backing plates are junk IMO

Ethanol does not = methanol

wow not much action in here "Im diggin AI in Denver. " Practice ? we talkin about practice ? not the game I die for but practice? hes a chump sorry. We need Earl back uh huh :thumbsup: :tongue: :yelrotflmao:

Is this for your banshee? if so you will need 22x11x8 the 22x11x10 the side wall is to stiff youll just need hualers as well extremes will over paddle it.

As far as I know they only come in 4mm & 10mm & 18mm stroke wright now. cylinders are $950 depending on builder and the cas work is a great bit of work. will soon see how a 4mm and 10mm run

Still looking

Pm me on what you have the crank is not important I need cluch side ans stator side