nicktoney

i meant they seemed to clean themselves up.. idk if thats possible? i have a box of ten in my truck :: but wouldnt i be able to just turn my screw out 1.5 turns and be close to the stock pilot?

hey thanks... here is what ive been thinking and yes, compression check on both cyl. are 151-153 area... right where they should be.. i use the choke to start... im thinking the reason it didnt start to nice was because i ran my bike just putting around the yard.... probably loaded up... putting just to put it out of the way... then i went to start and when i pushed it down the hill it just hummed, then started dinging on the right, then finally left... felt like fouled plugs.. took it screaming through the yard and up and down the field after it was warm... parked it.. next day, i went out in the morning when it was COLD... started after 3 kicks... choke on... who knows, maybe something needed blown out... maybe my plugs needed cleaned up... idk... ill clean it up anyways.. and check my reeds... thanks again!

those look like the ones i got with my knarly xc's.. they seem nice, havent really got a chance to beat the piss out of them?

you will love those pipes.... along with head and reeds, get an adjustable timing plate... up the timing and you'll be set... my buddy use to race banshees and had the same setup, minus timing plate and he had bigger domes in the head... he said his would bog then snap suddenly... standard banshee... he said mine acted like a 4stroke... it was smooth and was hard to keep the front end down just slamming throught the gears.... and it never stops pulling... you'll love that setup.. i promise.

alright, my mods are in the sig. right now i have 300mains, 27.5 pilots and .5 turns out on the screw. the temps here are dropping down to around 30-50... usually cold. when i go to start my shee, shes a bitch to start. i mean, i have to pop start it to get it to start... then i hear one cyl ding ding ding... then the other comes around... then when its warm it runs great. if i drop down to stock pilots, will that help cold starts? i mean, FREEZING starts? im gonna clean my carbs, swap plugs, and the such tonight again, but just let me know what the standards are with jetting with dropping temps... is it one size larger main with each ten degrees? fyi- elevation- 1200-1400

alright, so im looking to get some more power out of my shee and keep it decent in trails... my mods are in my sig, but how would 28mm Keihin PWK D-slides work? would they help out any? should i just get a decent set of reeds or would i benifit from new carbs? any help would be greatly appriciated... oh and im planning on getting my flywheel lightned..

ok, i took the TORS off my bike, now on the throttle there is the plug sensor deal... i took it out and i have the little rubber piece filled with silicone... ive saw people with billet plugs? where can i get one? id like to clean the looks up

i have trinity IV's on my bike and it RIPS... i mean, when i put them on along with a k&n in the box, i had very little bottom end.. but i put a noss head w 20cc domes, +4timing, dropped a tooth in the front and this thing is awesome in the trails... and the good thing is, no matter how stained they get, just steelwool them clean... i got a steal on ebay because they were brown... now they shine like no other..

welding shop? thats where we get our gasses for work..

alright, so im gonna get some white alpinestars tech6 boots... my question is this :i do a lot of trail riding, and i would like these to stay looking nice. Does anyone have white boots, dont have to be alpines, and how is the upkeep? easy to keep looking white? scuffs easy to clean out?

is 41 stock back? i heard if you drop one up front, its equal to 3 in the rear? do you lose a shitton of top end?

alright, so i just got new tires... kenda knarly xc's 22" ....i had bald 20" razrs on before... my question.... now that i have bigger tires, more rolling mass, what can i do to get that little snap in the bottom back? sproket? whats everyones opinion? i have stock gearing right now...

everything is stock, i didnt mess with anything but the head/domes/timing... thats why i wonder about testing it cold to be sure? everything piston/cyl./rods are all stock and have not been touched in anyway...

alright, im doing my compression test tonight. quick question, will i get accurate readings if my bike is cold, as opposed to hot? im only asking because id hate to blow it up if i start it and let it warm up? noss head, 20cc domes, +4timing, trinity iv pipes, boyesen superstock reeds, k&n in box, snorkel gone, 290mains, 12-1400ft, 50-60*..... this be safe to let warm up? can i just kick it, and rev it lightly to get it warmed up?

i think daves on vacation, but im sure someone could take the call?

hey thanks, pm sent. anyone know the stud size so i can check the store at lunch time anyways to see if they have one on hand? i know the nut is 12mm, but whats the size of the stud?

me and my sis put my head on the other night, needless to say, somewhere between picking up the orings, to placing 5 in her hand, one disappeared. we searched the whole garage, out pockets, shoes, everything and found nothing. one of my studs has no oring now. i put silicone gasket maker on it, but im hesitant to start it. anyone know the size so i can pick one up at the hardware store? or what could i do?? help help

hey thansk for the info... im buying that plate now.... good point too... like my truck, i said 12's were good enough... now im wanting low 11's - 10's

thanks for the helpful info, but which would be best? the key, the plate, or my modifying my plate? im not looking to get anymore than +4 now, or even in the future... so which is for me? are those +4 vito keys any good? or is it shitty?

well, i have trinity IV pipes, some boysen power reeds in stock cages, a k&n clamped in the stock box with the snorkle off, im getting my noss head with 20cc domes friday, and im putting it all together and thought why not advance the timing +4... here is my main question... im at 12-1400ft, running 93oct. and its around 60-70* here when im riding at the moment, but soon to drop to the 50's... would this be safe? get my flywheel lightned and go with +4 degrees? also, which should i do? mod my own timing plate? buy an adjustable one on ebay, or just buy vitos +4 key? thanks for all replys!

how do you tell the difference???? i got mine mixed up! and my choke isnt working right. hm.

well last night i had some free time... i tried cold starting it.. smelled fuel real bad. tore it down, carbs flooded out... i tore them completely apart, cleaned them completely, using speakerwire and such, put them back together with 290mains, 25pilots (same as before) and hooked it all up. backed the idle screws out all the way and turned them in about a turn each to have SOME idle to see whats up... pulled the choke control out. noticed it had a slight bend in it? put the choke piece from my old carbs in it (its straight) and tightened it all up... put the airbox back on... 8 kicks w choke on, it started? so i thought, well maybe it was all that carb cleaner or something letting it fire... i took it up the road, brought it home, set my idle where i wanted it... and put it back in the garage... came home around 1am, it was 55* roughly, went in, bike was cold... 4kicks and it fired right up... hmm... ill give it a try tonight too... but maybe it had to do with that bent choke piece or maybe they just needed idle adjustments and a thorough cleaning? oh, i noticed something... everyone knows the whole deal how the choke has 2 settings... half, and full out... well, mine wont hold out in full? why is that? like, it gets sucked back in and catches on half? thanks for everyones help btw...

yeh, see thats what made me wonder? all this started happening after i swapped carbs and took the tors off.. the first time after i did it all it was hard to start cold.. my buddy has a snapon tester... annnnnnd yeh, i did that choke test... i was told if you pulled the choke out after it was hot and it ran fine, jetting was too lean... and if it spit it wasnt lean... i havent been riding it, so thats not an issue... yes ill compression test, but im confused because it all happened immediately after tors removal and different carbs. coincodence? maybe?

well, see the thing is, i dont personally own a compression tester, and my buddy is bringing me his at the end of the week.. i actually think its carb related becuase here is what ive done since its been running like this. i got a tors eliminator... ordered everything from the same local guy. gave him my carbs to tap and thread. in the process, my carb cap threads were smashed when i got them returned so the new caps didnt thread on. i ordered some used, yet in great shape stock carbs from a member on here, and when igot them i cleaned them, hooked the new cable up, synced the carbs and replaced the jets with what was running perfect before.... then when i went to kick it over, it was sitting in the garage all night in the cold... got to about 50ish... still cold, the next morning, didnt want to kick over, not matter how far out the choke was... finally after a shit ton of kicking, it fired up.... ran great.... now, after ive ran it, and its even remotely still warm (not hot) its one kick and it starts... only COLD starts and its shit. and when im WOT with choke "on" i get no spit or sputter. which leads me to believe my top end is fine... i will however check my compression as soon as i get the tester... if my idle screws that are drilled into these "used" carbs arent setup very well, will it not start when its cold? could my slides be set down in too far according to the cable?

well the bike starts no problem when its hot, just a BITCH when cold... carbs are new and just cleaned... ill check the plugs and such later on tonight though... ahhh gas is fresh too.. it really screams when its hot though... but i thought that if you could ride it hot and put the choke on, and it didnt bog or spit, that your jetting was off? mine screams like normal no matter what the choke position once its hot... hmmm