jbooker82

I got an email back from him today. He says he doesnt do them any more. When he did do them it was $70 for the regular and $100 for the slotted flywheel. josh

Or until you break a piston skirt.

Still running it? How did it hold up? Is yours a slotted one? josh

Did it start to crack between the holes. (Going from hole to hole)? I wouldnt be out much cause I dont really plan on running this flywheel as it is. josh

I did some searching on here. I believe his screen name is BdBanshee. Last time he was online was October of 2007.

Banshee Worx the guys name is Ron i believe acording to his site. http://members.aol.com/ronw626/ I have an old flywheel that some one used a 3 jaw puller on and put some nice gouges in it. The gouges will come out if I get it lightened. I have been wanting to try a lightened flywheel. I found this guy on the web that lightens banshee flywheels. He also can turn the holes in to slots so it is even lighter. I havent really herd of him before but it looks like he does good work. I was reading on his web page and it says he like to ride at LS, OK so he is probably some where here in the mid west. Anybody have experiance with him? Heck maybe he is a member here. I tried emailing him about doing a flywheel but I keep getting a delivery failure notice. Is the guy still around? My Munched flywheel. Flywheel with slots. With out slots

Glad I can help. Just make sure to check the clearance with the solder. That is your squish clearance.

Most people will agree that the best way to build a 4 mill stroker is to run domes cut for the stroker crank, and no spacer plate, and have it ported for the 4 mill with cut domes. A 4 mill stroker crank allows the piston to drop 2mm farther down in to the jug (BDC) and it aslo pops out of the jug 2mm (TDC). That is why your domes are machined 2mm for for the stroker crank. You can check this clearance. Put the motor together with no spacer plate and your cut domes. Bend a pice of Solder in the shape of an L, Stick it down through the plug hole so it touches the side of the cylinder. Roll the motor over by hand with the kicker. It will smash the solder. Then measure the solder's thickness where it was smashed. Most people shoot for .035-.040. When you stick the solder in to the cylinder make sure you go parallel with the wrist pin. If you do it over by the exhaust port or intake port the piston could rock a little in the bore causing an inaccurate reading. As for the port timing. When you run no spacer plate with no porting the piston is still going to go 2mm down past the ports. Add that 2mm spacer plate in there now the piston is going to be going down 4mm past the ports. The 2mm spacer plate will advance the timing of the exahust port. A raised exhaust port does help top end power. If you ran no spacer plate it will lower the exhaust port, giving better bottom end. I would run no plate. That way all the stock porting is working together. I however wouldnt plan on keeping it this way. I would get the jugs ported. It will run fine with no problems not being ported. It just wouldnt run as hard as it could. Same is also true for a stock ported, stock stroke banshee. josh

What bore is it going to be? As for a coil you dont have to get a coil. Plenty of people on here running 68mm bore cubs with a stock coil. A good up grade is the Nology Coil with Hot Wires. Get them from Jeff at FAST. He is going to be the cheapest. josh

I dont know about stock banshee carbs but my PWK33's do that too. It lets air bypass the slides, but it also pulls more fuel. If you had a bad air leak you would have a hanging high Idle. When you rev it up in neutral it would rev up and slowly come back down. Know what I mean. josh

Isnt there supose to be dowl pins on all the cyinder to top case studs? I mine back to gether with out them and the cylinders came loose and blew the base gaskets and yamabond out. So I just put all new dowls in and no problems. I also check to make sure the nuts are tight too. josh

I would say you have way to big pilot jets. #30's on a piped banshee. The motor needs more fuel when it is cold that is why it starts. (That is why there is a choak too) When the motor is hot it needs less fuel and with those big ass jets it probably wont start. You might as well be kicking it over with the choak on. I would go to a set of stock (#25's I believe) or a size above stock (27.5's I believe) How many tuns out is the air screw? josh

I would also say it is an 03 by the color. I have a 2003 LE Raptor (All black with carbon fiber grill, and Blue Flames) and my bro has a regular Black, Red, with Silver Frame 03 Raptor. Raptors are a good machine. I like mine. It is kind of nice having a banshee and a raptor. They are totaly different machines. Bro's Raptor

You need to shoot for 150 for pump gas. Your going to notice a drop in midragne power when you step it back down. Guess that is the nice thing about a cool head. Just throw your domes back in if you want to go back.

That is what stock compression should be at sea level. What altitude are you at. It really affects the compression reading.

Do a trail port or one cylinder and a drag port on the other. Just make sure you have the right pipe for each cylinder. Shearer on the drag ported and a Paul turner Mid on the other. That way you get the best of both worlds. :biggrin:

Get you a bolt action .22 and some Remington Semi Sonic bullets. The are not the fastest bullit but they are quieter than a bb gun. Or some Remmington Yellow Jackets if you want to tear it up. josh

The ring is sold. Boxed up and ready to go out on monday. josh

All you will need is the cut domes for the stock rod stroker crank. It is the better way to go.

with a 4 mill stroker crank regardless of the rod length you need to run ONE or the other. Cut domes or the spacer plate. A long rod (115mm rod) stock stroke or 4mill crank will require running 795 series pistons. The 795 series pistons have the wrist pin moved up 5mm for the longer rod. The are only for the longer rod. If you run a 4 mill long rod you need 795 series pistons, and a spacer plate or cut domes. The long rod is a reliability mod. It does nothing for performance. It makes the angle of the connecting rod less so there is less side load on the piston skirts. josh

still got it.

TTT

I would get a hot rods long rod crank over a vito's. I deffinatly wouldnt get a short or stock rod length just so I could use the pistons I already had. You will just be putting more stress on the piston skirts by runnin a stock rod stroker. As for the cool head, make sure you get one that uses Pro Design domes. That way you can get custom domes for 4 mill stroker crank and not have to run that cylinder spacer plate. josh

I would have sold your power cores for $100 and take that $150 and bought Turbine Core II's from FMF. The turbine style spark arrestor is 10x better spark arrestor Than those clamp on sparkies. They flow better and you dont have to clamp them on.

What do you expect when you dont install the chain right. :shoothead: