LiftdT4R

You got any pics of that bike? Sounds sick, I want an R sooo bad. Do you just drag race or do you trail ride that beast too?

Awesome!!! I've been meaning to send you that pic of the Yamaha logo I have on my fender, I will definately need another one of those. Also, I was wondering if you could do some smaller ones, multiple colors of the Lonestar logo. I picked up one of their swingarms for my proect bike, and I have their a-arms too, but they send these big ass stickers that really wouldn't go on my bike. Here's the pic: I'd need like a few in solid white, and a few in solid blue.

I could, I have a scanner and a Fax at my office, I'm not there much, but I will be there tomorrow and Friday from 6-8PM EST. Lemme know,

So am I. Post it up if you got it. Anyone know who won?

Or you could just buy a 2 jaw puller for $10 and not have to worry about ruining the threads.

Hmm, I hadnt thought of the bike not being true. Mine is I guess because I've always done it this way and never had a problem. Half the time the tie rod ends are soo damn rusted I would have no other way to loosen them but to pull them off and throw them in a vice or use 2 wrenches. It only takes a few extra minutes to do, and I think it makes it a helluva lot easier. You could always fine adjust when they are in place. The last one I did, the frame must have been a little tweaked because when I put them on, they still werent right. The trick I found is, thread the nut on a few turns but don't set the balljoint, that way you can measure and take it off really quick if need be. You don't have to go through the whole puller thing. My vote is still to take them completely off, I don't think I would have been able to loosen the rusted threads any other way.

:: :: For the umpteenth time, the reason it's called a banshee is because of the scream, I'm no expert on folore, but a banshee is some kind of ghost that screams or some shit, and I guess it sounded like the quad Yamah makes, so they called it that. Ok? Next up, how did they get the name blaster?

Definately look in Clymer, they have a section on this. Basically when I do mine, I unbolt the tie-rods, and then pull them with a 2 jaw puller. Once they are completely off the bike I make sure they are adjusted to the specs in clymer. 11.??? inches I think. One of the BJs and nuts is reverse threaded, so be careful with that. You then put them back on, and adjust from there. I use a measuring tape, and follow the instructions just like it says in Clymer for drawing the chalk on the wheell, etc. etc. Got mine perfect doing just that. I think you want anywhere from a 0 degree toe to a ?negative? toe, but I don't remember offhand.

And your point is?? This has been posted before, numerous time. The boost bottle question and the banshee question are the ultimate n00b questions, way to go!

Kinda lame, but I'm a HUGE Offspring fan. I've been listenin' to their shit since the mid 90s, when they released Ignition. Kick him when he's down!

PM sent

Payment sent on that swinger. Thanks man :beer:

Yall must have some good garbagemen down there in south jersey. Fuckin' assholes wouldnt pick up a recliner I left at the curb here, they just stick a fuckin' note to it sayin' it's too big, blah blah blah. Ida taken it, but I still have 1 stuck bolt I'm trying to get outta my farme here, they are a bitch and a half.

What?? That is wrong on sooo many levels. I'm not going to even start to adress the inaccuracies there.

I agree with you on that. Hondas are reliable as a mofo! I have a few buddies that only buy Honda stuff, and they are pretty cool guys(Theyd be cooler if the had banshees). I eventually hope to get a 250R to go along with my banshee, but hey, to each is own. I know a lot of dickheads that ride Yamahas too. Now those Chevy guys, they're the dickheads! :yelrotflmao:

I second that, dont fuck with it yourself, or wait on it, they'll probably know and then they won;t do shit for you. I'm guessing you paid to have them fix the bike, not make it worse, fuck 'em make 'em fix it!

It's acetone. And it can be added to fuel, it actually helps to break up deposits in fuel injection systems, it's used in basically all thos fuel injection cleaners at Pep Boys or Vato Zone. I don't know how much you actually mix, I've heard 1 ounce to 1 gallon, but I'm not 100% on that. If your planning on using it on a Banshee, I wouldn't it only takes an hour to take off the carbs and actually clean them, and that will work better. I wouldn't risk harming the engine when there is a simple proven way to clean the carbs.

What kind of gas do you wanna run? Pump or race? What kind of riding do you do? What elevation are you at? How reliable do yuo want the engine to be? Also, when you say Nos, I'm guessing you mean the Noss cool head, and not Nos as in Nitrous Oxide Systems?

From the symbols in the wiring diagram in Clymer it looks like all the switched are normally open with the exception of the engine stop switch. If this is true, then I should just be able to cut all of the above wires, and it shouldn;t mattter. I'm just a little confused because I thought the key switch(main switch) was normally closed too, but it's symbol shows normally open. Anyone confirm? I'm trying to get this shee out tomorrow, and this is the last thing I have left.

Look like they're in damn good shape, the elctronics are soo hard to find though, any chance you have the cdi and head too?

Anybody? Tryin to get ready for the possible snow tomorrow.

Got any pics of the radiator? How are the fines, are there any crushed? Thanks, :beer:

Only 12? I thought for sure you were older then that. :yelrotflmao:

What's up yall? I had a terrible time starting my banshee this morning, and noticed that there was no spark. So, I decided to pull the entire electrical, and take a look. I bought this bike used a few months back, and I have no idea what the previous owner did/didn;t do to the wiring, I know he installed the TORS removal kit. SO anyway, I have a few questions now that I'm cleaning up the harness. Will the bike run correctly if I cut the black/white wire that comes out of the TORS and goes to the CDI. All the other wires(black, black yellow, yellow brown) are either used to link the TORS together or are ground wires, so removing them was easy. But I don't know if the black/white wire completes a circuit that lets the bike run or anything like that. If I do cut it, should I just tie it into the ground so as to complete the circuit? Also, the parkinf brake has ben done away with, and I wanted to take out the park switch. Again, it was an empty plug left hanging off the harness. There is a black(ground) and a green yellow(CDI) plug coming out of it. Is it col if I just cut the gree yellow wire? Or do I need to tie it to the ground so as to complete the circuit. I'm guessing the parking brake switch needs to be open to run, so I think I can just cut it. The bike ran fine with it unplugged so this should be it. As always, thanks! Your help is greatly appreciated :beer:

Yup, if you read a page and half or so back, just like I said, pissing match. Good luck with your carb tuning bro, that's all I have to say.