LiftdT4R

Your never going to have a torque monster, and the 2 into 1 pipes will really hurt you on the open sections. The T5s should be plenty fast for trails, they are probably the most popular all around pipes out there. I would think about doing some suspension mods to help you out if your not happy, and make the sure the bike is jetted properly. Also, definately do the +4 timing, and depending on what kind of trails your running, you might want to oepen up the air box more.

Sent ya an e-mail, lemme know.

I liked the IMS one better then the Clark, I got a 5.6 on my one bike and a 4.0 on my other, both great tanks if you dont mind the looks. If you wanna check 'em out pics are in my sig. They are really freakin nice cuase you can ride all day long, and even into the night.

Still running TORS?

I wouldnt go for a tube swinger if your going to be riding trails, or jumping it hard. Also, forgot to add, most swingers don't come with skid plate tabs, so if you want to run a skid make sure the swinger your getting has them.

Got a rear by any chance?

Well, I will be honest, if I were racing pro, I would not be on a banshee. But if your just looking to build a fun all around trail bike, you cant get a better bike to do it with, and your really not going to be dumping that much $$ into it considering what you can pick one up for and what other bikes cost.

Actually, I think your missing my point. I now have a 95% brand new bike, completely rebuilt engine, all seals, bored, new rad, changed all fluids, you name it. I don't want to pick up some hunk of shit used YFZ with all their oil problems blowing cases and what not. And I don't want something that someone beat the shit out of. So, I'm still sticking with my statement. Anyway, I'm not going to argue with you anymore here, my advice to the thread starter stands, and it's up to him to make a decision on whether or not to build it up or sell it for something else. But, I don't regret any penny I've put into my shee(except for the boost bottle :yelrotflmao: ) I love the shee for trails. I consider my self of average skill level, and I have no problem hanging with guys my same skill level on any bike. Ive ridden with YFZs, LTRs, and 450Rs, I don't race, but I have a ton of fun, and the thing has never let me down.

Somebody's just mad because they only get to run in a straight line. :biggrin:

Yeah, I have the old LRDs, and both sides definately have a different bend to them.

Amen brother.

I'm not going to muddy up this thread with another trail banshee debate, but I think(maybe it's just me) that comments like "get a real trail bike" are kind of counter productive to the whole topic. Youve given me tons of good advice, and I know you help a lot of people on this message board, but I don't think that's good advice, especially when there are tons of people on this board that are using banshees for trail bikes. So, I'm going to stick with my original statement, you can have one fun trail bike with a few suspension mods, and a little engine work. I paid 1500 for my 2001 Banshee, and I put about 5-6k into it so far, still less then the price of a brand new YFZ. I pretty much have a brand new bike, and it is definately a blast to ride. As a matter or fact before I went through my current build I could hang with just about any rider that was the same skill level as me.

Yeah, I'm curious what kind of carbs are you going to run with that? I would think stockers would be too small.

:shrug: You drag racers never get it.

Banshees can make great trail bikes. It's not going to be the fastest through the trails, but I have yet to find anything that is more fun, and it still holds its own. If your bogging in the low end, like the other users said your jetting is probably off. Otherwise, the only way your going to get any more low end is with a stroker or a 2 into 1 carb.

Older Lonestar -1. The newer ones have 2 pinch bolts on either side which is a little more stout. Havent ridden it yet, Im still building the bike, but from what I hear they are a must have for trails. You also should get a shock to match, TCS will rebuild your rear in the neighborhood of $300, or you can buy a Works for a little more.

Bill's are pretty old school, a lot of people used to have them back in the day. They are a mid range pipe, good for trails and all around riding. Ive never ridden them, and you dont see them that often though. My guess on price, depends on shape, anywhere from 100-300 most likely.

I think I paid around 70-100 for mine. Kaotik is right too, it's a little more then $5 worth of powder, plus you gotta figure you need an oven, and a gun, which arent free.

Don't know if this helps or not, but , I actually figured out the length of the +2 tie rods, with ball joints based on the geometry of a stock rod to get me close when I did my alignment on my new front end. The length of the stockers with BJs(from center of BJ to center of BJ) is 14.2", if you draw it up, and figure +1" foward and +2" width, the length of the new tie rod from center of BJ to center of BJ is 16 9/16". When I did mine it wound up actually being like one more turn out on each side, but that got me really close. If your in that area on the length, then something else was wrong. I know on the one bike I had, the arm coming off the spindle was actually bent, your best bet is to put it up on a jack, and measure from the floor to different points on the front suspension(side to side) and see if anything is bent. That should tell you pretty quickly.

-3, Holy shit! Isn't the elka linkage emant to fit a stock swinger? I remember seeing pics of a dude running an elka linkage on you standard off the shelf LSR roundhouse. I dont know though as I run a stock linkage with a TCS rebuilt rear. Your bike sounds like its coming along really nice, you gotta post up some pics of that bad boy soon.

Holy shit! You shoulda PMed me about that, I woulda given you a few more bucks for it. I've seen them go on e-bay for a lot the last few times they were posted up.

It wouldnt do much for me, the electronics can be a little tough to come by. I'd say probably still in the $3-400 range.

to get good money for it you would need to throw in the wiring harness, stator and flywheel, that way someone could do the entire RZ conversion. Assuming its in good shape, I'd give ya 400 for all that.

Damn John, nice looking bike, bump for ya!

Whew, I'm not sure, they are fuckin' long though. I bought them used off Ellison a while back.