Snopczynski

It looks like a T4.

Thats funny, cause the peak rpm of this pipe is lower than that of the stock pipes. As per our dyno results it peaks at 8,600 rpm. Also stated by Rich Daly (owner of Dynoport) that the max rpm range design for the pipe is 8,750rpm. The biggest thing that fools people about this pipe and rpm's is the sound it makes. Thats because its pushing two cylinders worth of power out 1 silencer baffle hole. There is no talking your way around this. I have dyno sheets and endless write ups on this forum about this pipe and the 2 into 1 intake. Twin pipes work at the same rpm range as the 2 into 1 pipe does. Max rpm out of my pro circuits is 8,750 rpm on the dyno. This has nothing to do with the fact of the pipe being a single or duals. You can design pipes to be better low-mid pipes than the 2 into 1 exhaust. Just like Pal turner, FMF, and pro circuit did with their low-mid exhaust options. The 2 into 1 pipe is a pile of worthless shit. Its a midrange pipe (not a low-mid pipe), and not even a good one at that.

He is not necessarily looking for the pipe that makes the most power you guys. He is looking for something that has usable power for how he rides. As far as I know, Shearers arent geared to be a play pipe by any means. As far as I know, they are a top end pipe, thats why they pull harder than cpi's. Dajoegr we need your input.

I have known Jack since the early 90's, and he always operated of my hometown area. Now he lives behind our shop in a developement. He is a good guy. I wouldn't let you use my shop, or my tools if you were just one of my customers. You would have to be a close friend. I guess it just goes to show sandtoys will do anything to try and make money. Rooster has a reputation, so they dont have to worry as much about the cash coming in.

Oooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, Dissed.

It's not hooked up backwards if they dont specify a way to hook it up.

Yeah I have been finishing up the last of my golden guns since I cant prestige any further on COD4. Gotta get ready for Modern Warfare 2.

This bike turns a 4.132 Drag Raptor

A 80-90hp drag 660 raptor will keep up with a 110-120hp drag banshee. I shouldn't say 660, we are referring to big bore 4 strokes here as well. I have seen it with my own two eyes though. Rooster built has one that was running heads up at Coos Bay last Labor day. He was running with cheetahs, twister small blocks, redlines bikes, he was competitive with everything out there. The torque on those fuckers makes em vicious like a diesel truck with a edge box or a quadzilla chip in it.

Sounds like a $100 + shipping for the stuff to do 4 arms.

Are you talking about a single pipe? If you are then You are high on crack and I challenge you to try pro circuits, much better low mid pipe. Proven on my seat of the pants dyno, and the crank dyno.

Im assuming this is the 2 into 1 pipe from what you said, and not the twin pipes. Sell the fucking pipe, its not jetting, it's how the pipe is made. Its only strong in the midrange, its not a low-mid pipe, and it has no top end pipe either. to make the hesitation go away, you will need more compression, more timing, and your gonna need to drop the exhaust port, and raise the transfers. Even then, it wont carry you like a set of pro circuits, fmf low-mids, or pt mids will. This pipe gives you a handicap, and doesn't give you anything extra over any other low-mid pipe on the market. It's a garbage pipe that wastes everyones time it comes into contact with.

If there is no paint mark, and no + or - symbol, then it doesn't matter.

Thats up to you. Either way you have to convert to dc. Its a good idea to run a battery with the led's, its a must with the HID's.

I think I am gonna get some of those. Now I just need a set of control arms to hack up, and make my proto type set off of.

Get rid of the T5 pipes and the vf3 reeds. Use a low tension reed petal on the stock cage, and a set of low-mid pipes. If you get a trail port, those T5 pipes will narrow out the power band and turn the power on/off like a light switch towards the midrange and pull to the top end.

is there a prong with red paint near it?

Where they factory chromed cpi pipes, or cascade show chrome cpi pipes? We have a set of chrome pro circuits that they did, they are over a year old, and there is no corrosion on them at all.

the orange one goes on the positive side, and the black one goes on the negative.

The guys at Sandtoys are a bunch of amateurs. I wouldn't trust em with a power wheels atv.

I would like to see the yamaha joints, and the weld in bungs please.

Its .043" squish. I would get cpi's if you aren't too worried about drag racing.

thats a heavy ass fuckin wheel. I run 22x11x8 10 paddle super lites on blue label rims.

get rid of the boost bottle, and ditch the dynojet main jets if they are not mikuni. You probably need to adjust the needle clip position. Those fucking bottles are junk.

A couple things here. This is an extremely good idea. As long as you dont bend an a-arm these things should be around forever. You just replace a joint when it goes bad. I cant run a wider front end, or I wont fit in between the trees down in the holes in Oregon. How do those moog joints seem to fit in the taper on the spindles? AZCustom: Can you post up a pic or send me a pic of the joint you have. I just want to see it before I order some from you. I was going to use heim's, but I think I may go this route instead.