Snopczynski

we run pc's and the csfx setups. Haven't been sound tested in a very long time.

hey guys, he said cv carb. Technically thats a trinity 2 into 1 constant velocity manifold. He needs to clarify this a little better.

SOLD

first guy to pay gets them. I have been getting pm's and now have 3 people who say they want them. So hurry up and pay if you want em.

yes they will fit.

The crank dynos are way more accurate than anything else, there is a huge difference in the way it samples the motor. There is no clutch, no gears, no chain, and no sprocket. The correction programs are alot easier to use as well. So by far its nothing like running on a drum. Drums dont even have an engine break either.

you have to run 35w bulbs.

NOPE!

I dont use a chassis dyno, heck I dont even use a sprocket dyno. I use a crank dyno.

I bet it's not radder than my mullet. You still could have opened your mouth and said "Hey, Whats done to this thing".

Didn't read it to close did ya.

I have a set of Keihin PWK 28mm carbs with K&N Pod filters for sale. Carbs have about 5 rides on them. They will come setup with main jet, needle, and pilots already. The pod filters look brand new as well. $175 for just the carbs. $210 for carbs and the air filters. Shipping will be extra based on where you are located.

In the case of the two bikes I am talking about, it doesn't come down to any of that stuff as to why they pull even in a drag reace. Both chassis setups and even gearing are identical. Its comes down to his torque vs my hp. He gets me off the line, I catch him with my midrange acceleration, and we hang even at the end.

Epic Fail! Is it stolen, or were you just not smart enough to ask what all was done to it when you bought it?

Problem is, people dont look at the overall picture. It's not a hp to hp reading that will tell you what motor is even faster. Like I said, my motor makes more hp, his motor makes more torque. As far as rider ability, he and I swapped bikes with the same results. So still even there. When you use a dyno, you have to be able to read what its telling you, you cant just look at hp numbers and say "well this one is more, this motor is better".

Well crank dynos work better than anything else, and day to day runs do effect numbers. A good operator can get the right correction factors in though, and get good results on a consistent basis. Comparing parts has to be done under identical conditions for a reputable comparison though. I feel the biggest mistake people make is jet a bike to what they consider dead on with the dyno, I haven't realy seen anything come of the dyno jetted right for actual load conditions. You can only really jet the top end also, most guys dont have an engine brake so setting up the needl eor pilot circuit proves to be very hard on the dyno. Two bikes head to head can only be told on the strip though. We have a 60hp ported 4 mill that keeps up with my 67hp ported 350 in a drag race, and it neck to neck at the end. Alot of it lies in the power delivery, chassis setup, and rider ability.

motor size is one of many variables. Need a list of mods.

Yeah, every bike in that video had superlights on it.

Yeah, I though they looked like power pros. I have personally owned two sets of their custom pipes.

You are missing out on a ton of torque with that 2 into 1 pipe. I did the first dyno run on this thread on a dynojet with a 2 into 1 carb, and a 2 into 1 pipe. The hp and the torque were crippled. dyno thread Went back to the same dyno about 1 year later, and with the twin pipes and twin carbs on the bike, it made about 6 more hp and about 3 more ft lbs of torque over the prior setup. At 5,500 rpm the twin pipes and carbs were already making 1.5 ft lbs more torque than the single pipe, and single carb. 2 stroke motors rely on port timing and expansion chamber design to create the same effects that a cam does in a 4 stroke engine. That single expansion chamber shit completely fucks with the equivelant to overlap in a 2 stroke motor. 2 strokes rely on the vac. effect created from the piston and exhaust to maximize performance. With two different exhaust waves sharing one expansion chamber, this effect is what appears to cripple this process in the banshee motor. Exhaust is drawn back into a 2 stroke motor to scavenge the a/f charge, they didn't get this process perfected when they designed that single pipe. 2 stroke motors are not meant to share the exhaust with a crossover pipe like a 4 stroke motor is. Exhaust chamber length, diameter, and outlet diameter all greatly effects the 2 stroke motors output ability greatly. Everyone who has ridden the bike before and after the move to the dual pipes and dual carbs says the same thing. "It is way more responsive now, and it takse off like a bat out of hell now". Everyone else noticed the low rpm bog it had, because the dynoport pipe is a midrange pipe, not a low-mid pipe. Dual low-mid pipes work better than the dynoport single pipe does. The single carb does accelerate faster, but at the cost of almost 6 hp on the top end. Im not telling you all this based off just dyno graphs and numbers. Seat of the pants, this thing was majorly different as well. Everything we saw on the dyno was backed up by riding the bike as well. That 2 into 1 pipe is all bark and no bite. Everything we have put pro circuits on and compared to other low-mid setups so far has came with the same results. More power, and it was a change across the board. PT mids vs pro circuits, more hp with the pc's right off the bottom, and 5 more hp on the top end. The pt mids even pulled about 150 more rpm than the pc's did, but they couldn't match anywhere close to the same power output. The idea behind my replies is to save you the time of trying to polish a corny terd. It is never gonna do what you think it will do. Switch to a real low-mid pipe, and you will see what your missing out on. To get rid of that bog your gonna need portwork, low tension reeds, compression, and a single carb kit. Even then, you wont match the output across the board of a set of good low-mid dual pipes on the same setup.

I used to have a motofast pipe also.

that hub pressure plate that goes on with the springs has to be flat on the end clutch pack. It can be installed wrong and it wont sit flush.

I use them for play riding in Oregon. We are alot harder on tires up here. We run over tree roots and vegetation with them.

The 2 into 1 pipe is a bunch of smoke and mirrors (bullshit). You guys that are using them dont know what your missing out on with a good set of low-mid dual pipes.

what about water, corrosion, and rust in the stator cover?