Snopczynski

If you google "Banshee pro circuit" you can find the pc's just as cheap as the fmf's. You dont want to buy them directly from the manufacturer, that where your gonna pay the most for them. Rich at Dynoport sold me that pipe, and he ported my cylinders. He did an awesome job on my cylinders, but not a very awesome job when he developed that pipe. Shopping Link

The single pwk 35mm setup revs up faster, because its using constant velocity by pulling air through the carb at pretty much all times. It only makes a little bit more power on the bottom though. The 2 into 1 pipe wont speed up acceleration at all. That thing seemed to take forever to wind up, and that was using it with the single carb also. Huge Power difference on the top end though! Single Carb with pro circuits Dual Carbs with Pro Circuits

How much were the bulbs each?

I was thinking of making a price sheet, are any of you guys interested in one for ALL the vision x products?

I believe the older bikes had lens diffusers, and the newer bikes just had a clear lens. I am not sure which year they changed them though.

A lot of people on here that have the singles are under the mis-conception that it has more power on the bottom end. It doesn't really have much more than a set of duals at all. It is actually faster acceleration they are feeling because of the carb velocity the kit creates. You can properly setup a set of duals to feel almost identical if you use the right parts. The duals will also make more mid-top power than the single setup as well.

Picture of your existing stock one please.

It's not a low-mid pipe, its just a midrange pipe, and not even a good one at that.

I live in Bonney Lake, WA! I work on Banshee's, and have a machinist for motor work as well.

I have first hand experience with the dynoport pipe, and if you would have used the search function on the forum, you would have known that. You just wasted your money buying one! You will have to re-jet with it, its not a good low-mid pipe either. It chokes down your peak midrange-and high rpm hp, and it has a very narrow power curve that comes on late and ends early compared to the broad curve on the pro circuits. Thr pro circuits make more power everywhere compared to the dynoport, and they will make more power sooner than the dynoport pipe. If you put any pipe on besides stock, then you will have to rejet the bike, thats just the way it is.

I sent you the pm.

Kimbo is a punk??????????? I dont get it??????????????? He is fairly humble, he is respectful, and he doesn't talk trash. So are you saying he literally dies his hair purple, has piercings, and listens to acid rock?

Cool, I am a friend of the owner of vision x, and one of the few others running a battery setup in a banshee. Does that xmitter bar seem to reach out far enough for you when your traveling fast at night? I run the solstice lgihts, and one of the new solstice helmet lights with the new big bad battery pack in my kidney belt. Its probably the best light mod I have ever seen for night riding. You can basically set it up so the light is pointed wherever you are looking, and it gets it high up above you for the best distance coverage. I also have blue underbody leds that I run on my setup.

A lot of guys only recommend these carbs on drag bikes, because they usually dont have them tuned right. We tune em on the crank dyno, and it takes a little tweaking once in the bike. We see solid numbers that indicate the lectrons make 20% more power on the bottom end than the keihin and mikuni carbs do on all setups. It comes down to having the right needle taper though. Not something that most people get mastered. Drag applications only make it necessary to have 2 sections of the taper right.

Use the search function.

You running a battery to power that xmitter bar?

No washer, he needs to lap it to the crankshaft, and loctite blue the nut.

the needles are expensive, I dont have to buy them though. I just brought back the old ones, and then exchanged them for the new ones from my motor guy. The power jets are just mikuni pilot jets, they are pretty cheap. For the power the carbs give you compared to anything else, its worth the time messing with them on a drag bike, and a low-mid setup. Its just a fucker doing it.

Lectrons hands down have proven to me that they make more lowend power, and maintain the same topend power as mikunis or keihins at the very least. Seen it myself on the dyno, and I ran 32mm lectrons on my old sand bike. The hard part is, learning how to tune the needles, understanding how it works, and making sure you have all the needles your gonna need to get it tuned in. I recommend going with a set of carbs from a reknown lectron builder like packard, he can get you close. After that its just fine tuning to get them perfect.If you dont like the flat head screws on the carb top, then go to the hardware store and get different ones. All carbs come with shitty hardware that the head strips out on, so I dont know why someone was just bagging on the flat heads on the lectrons.

You need to check for voltage where it comes out of the stator connector with a meter or a test light. Check it with the bike idling, do not rev it up.

does your bike still have a voltage regulator on it?

pipe to pipe they have to be compared on the same setup to know what is affecting what. You cant just bolt one set on one bike with a certain setup, and the other pipe on a different bike with a different setup and make a comparison.

if you use the search, there is a wiring diagram on the forum.

If they are standard halogen lights, then you just connect them up with no battery. Hid's, and some LED lights need dc current and a battery to run.

The pt mids aren't more of a low mid pipe compared to pro circuits. The pt mids come on later in the rpm, and peak a little later than the pro circuits. The pro circuits also have consistently tested making more power than the pt mid setups we tested.