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Snopczynski

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Everything posted by Snopczynski

  1. Port time area, same as his spec sheet. 186.8 Exhaust toal open, and 126.8 transfer total open.
  2. Seeing the actual Durations of the Serval has now even further cemented my stance on the pipe, carb, and reed selection that needs to be run with it.
  3. they dont make motofast pipes anymore. I would forget the 2 into 1 unless your running a turbo. There are way better low-mid pipes in a twin setup. All these guys that claim all these things about the pipe are flaky, and I have a hard time trusting what they say seeing how they wont prove it.
  4. The way I look at the swap is not just putting in a 4mm crank and the serval cylinders. I am gonna need a hinson basket and possibly will want to do a lockup also. Also, right now my bike runs good, and has nothing wrong with it.
  5. I sent Andy a pm about getting one.
  6. Even if I come up with the pipes, people need to come up with the carbs, domes, and reeds. My pipes just got ceramic coated, and I just got my bike put together for a ride in 2 weeks. So my pipes arent going anywhere but the Oregon coast.
  7. Shitty dunes, shitty campgrounds, shitty bike shops, shitty restraunts=Florence (shitty riding)!
  8. Pro circuits. You should be running smaller carbs and a low-mid reed instead of 34's and vforces.
  9. What about the rest of the stuff?
  10. there is no such thing as a stock slide. They never came on a banshee, so to interest me, you need to tell me the answer to ALL the things I asked about. There is a number stamped in the slide.
  11. I cant stress enough that I dont want someone to just test a set of pc's. I would like to see smaller carbs, low-mid reeds, and pc's tested on it at the same time. I would also like to see timing in the +4 to +5 range with some more compression. Im looking for someone to test a full low-mid package on it. We can't do pc's with 35mm carbs, and vforce reeds. That would suck. No spare pc's here right now, we are using all 6 sets we have right now on the bikes. If anything gets torn apart I can look into it, but everything is running good right now. I got a hold of one the dyno sheets for one of the re-sleeved cubs set up for low-mid. It made 58.78 ft/lbs of torque and 93.96hp with a 7 mill crank. It has 1,500 rpm of torque backup.
  12. I found something, Lew Swan is going to paint them flat black.
  13. Keyser, what nozzles, slides, needles, and needle/seats these have in them?
  14. The needle is the main thing that tuness a 2 into 1 kit. We need to know the needle size, and I need a list of every mod done to the bike.
  15. The things thats making this hard to convey is, pipes have to match durations for the motor to work the "most" effectively. So far no one has matched a pipe to the durations of this motor properly in my opinion. So they have not seen the maximum power the motor can create at its given peak rpm. They also haven't seen the max power it can create up to that rpm. Just because you put a pipe on the bike that works to 9,500 rpm, doesn't mean the pipe will improve everything in its range up the 8800 rpm (better than a 8,800 rpm pipe would) or so that this motor will want to rev to with the durations it has. A pipe that is designed to peak at 8,800rpm instead of 9,500rpm will make more hp in its working range because they are typically designed to work sooner, and the cost of working sooner, is cutting the peak rpm of the pipe shorter. Your not utilizing the power like you could be. I guess another analogy for it would be: You have a glass of coca cola (serval cat). You have a straw (pro circuits), and you have a 1.5" piece of pvc pipe (cpi's, shearers, T5's). Are you gonna drink the glass of cola with the straw or a 1.5" piece of pvc pipe? I have ridden that re-sleeved cub on some sand trails, in some idiot holes, and I have drag raced it for fun out on the strip in Coos bay on a holiday weekend.
  16. As far as inlets and outlets on pc pipes, they are the same size as a T5 or SB CPI Inframe pipe last time I checked. Pipe design is based around back pressure, expansion chamber, and scavenging. The pipe and the exhaust durations on a 2 stroke motor are effectively the camshaft of a 4 stroke motor. They determine how the powers comes on, and how much of it you get. I dont know how to say this any other way then I dont think the pipes, carbs, and reeds are well matched to that motors durations that everyone is testing. I know the motor can make 90+ hp with pro circuits, mid tension reeds, and 30mm carbs. We already have a re-sleeved and dropped duration cub motor doing it. Its as simple as that! I read in one of these posts either here or in that link that this motor is identical to the cub if you change the porting. So effectively we have already done a serval cat motor by resleeving a cub motor is what I am gathering here. I have already dyno tested the setup with a 7 mill crank and it makes 94hp with a ton of torque, and good torque backup on a 50/50 race gas motor. The thing launches hard, and pulls wheelies with a +6 swingarm, its an awesome handfull of a bike because of the midrange torque and HP it makes. Can you imagine riding a 94hp low-mid built bike? Its awesome! Im not sure anyone else in here is on the same page as me as to what I would like to see the motor do. It seems like everyone interested in this setup making maximum hp, and anything else it does is just an added bonus as long as it doesn't have the power characteristics of a cub motor. For me, I want to see it make a lot of hp, but also a lot of torque, and maintain a good torque backup curve so you can throttle out and back in as needed for obstacles, hill climbs, jumps, etc........ Here is a chart for my motor, notice the 1,500rpm of torque backup on it. My setup is a little different now, but fairly close still. numbers graph
  17. NGK BR8ES (3961 solid top) gapped at .022"
  18. Almost 200 psi is a lot, that ought to get the job done. Like I said, my experience isn't just based of stock cylinder bikes. We have some re-sleeved cub motors running around with lower port durations. The T5 is a mid-top pipe (considered by most as a dune pipe), not a top end pipe (drag pipe). The T5 is not considered a low-mid pipe by any means, even though people on here keep referring to them as such. The pt mids and pc's service up to about 8,750rpm, and the T5 is designed to peak much more than that (around 9,500 rpm). As a mid-top pipe the T5 sucks, cause the cpi's will devastate them all day long. I agree that this is a new setup. Basic rules of the cylinder are unchanged though. What every low mid motor guy wants is low durations that move in air in large quanities, and move exhaust out in large quanities. Nothing has ever changed there regardless of the cylinder design. As far as the statement about hp keeping you there, that is true! However, Torque backup is what allows you to let off the throttle and go right back up to where you were. Which is what we need for the trails and idiot holes in Oregon. As far as the setup on my cousins bike, he weighed 30 pounds more than me at the time, he runs the same shocks, the same swingarm length, and the same front end as me. He also has the same exact tires and rims as I do. Chassis Setup wise our bikes were identical at the time of the drag race, the only difference was in the motors, and I run a dyna ignition (custom curve programmed) with a dyna coil. I attribute his coming out of the hole harder due to the fact his motor makes more torque than mine at a lower rpm. Thus created by his 4 mill crank, lower port durations, and single carb setup. I still stand by my opinion that there is un-claimed hp and torque being left on the table across the rpm with not running low-mid power range parts on the setups being tested and ran. I can vouch for things like vf3's being taken off and replaced with mid tension reeds on stock cages, and that adding 2hp to the MIDRANGE RPM of a motor (without making much of a noticeable number difference on the top end). I have dyno sheets for my setup right now for twin carb and single carb. A little has changed since the dyno session, but its right for the most part. I cant get a hold of the sheets for my cousins 4 mill or for the cubs right now. They are on the builders laptop, and its just not an easy thing to get a hold of.
  19. So they make machined cub domes for coolheads to run in em?
  20. You dont ever throw standard logic out the window when applying it to two stroke motors. I am sure this motor has power at 9-10k, but I seriously doubt it makes more power in that range un-ported, because of the durations. No one has tested anything low-mid for carbs, reeds, or pipes on this setup yet, and everything that guy at McCoy said verified what I told people here on this forum. CPI is a better mid-top pipe than a T5. McCoy's increase in Compression and more timing translated to more power as well. The situation we are dealing with on this setup is like comparing a diesel motor to a gas motor in 2 of the same pickups. One is more centralized around hp (gas truck), and the other is more centralized around torque (diesel). Now, if you have ever driven a diesel pickup, you know that you mash down on the gas in one of those things and they take off like a bat out of hell, but they dont rev up as high as a gas truck does. A 5.7L Dodge Ram Hemi pushes around 375hp. My Cummins 5.9L diesel pushes 325hp. So if the Hemi makes that much hp, then why does the cummins make a superior tow rig, and why did it take off and accelerate way faster than a 5.7L hemi? The answer is..................... Torque My Diesel Packs 610 ft/lbs of torque vs the Hemi at 400 ft/lbs of torque. Here is another scenario, my cousin has a 4 mill stock cylinder motor with a single lectron, pc pipes, mid reeds, high compression, and exhaust ports that are lower durations than stock. He makes about 61hp on the crank dyno. My bike is a stock bore, stock stroke ported 350 with a tiny bit higher exhaust duration than stock, pc pipes, twin 28mm carbs, mid reeds, etc..... I push about 66.75hp. When he and I drag race he takes me off the line by alot, and then I catch up to him further down the strip and we always finish dead even with each other. Now why does his 61hp bike hang with my almost 67 hp bike? The answer is............... Torque He has almost 4 more ft/lbs of torque in the midrange of his motor rpm than I do. His bike launces hard off the line. Everyone is interested in hp this, and hp that, when with this setup we should be watching torque. I have 42ft lbs of torque in my motor setup, my cousin runs about 46 ft/lbs. The idea I have for the Serval cat is more torque. We bolt on pipes that make Torque, and carbs that make torque, then reeds that make torque, more compression that makes torque, and more timing that makes torque. The end result would be slightly more hp, but a ton more torque. As a low-mid guy I dont want more hp, I want to see more torque, because the bike is a lot funner to ride when it accelrates so fast that it tries to throw you off. I still stand by that there is hp and torque being left on the table with this setup. I think smaller carbs, pc pipes, mid reeds, some race gas domes, and advanced timing is what will make this setup more fun. Like I said, we have re-sleeved cub motors putting out 94hp and tractor like torque with pro circuits, 30mm carbs, mid reeds, high compression, and advanced timing. I like the Serval cat cylinder, I would just set it up way different than what everyone else has done. I have a motto: lots of hp is fast, but lots of torque gets you there faster.
  21. do you need a special coolhead for them, or does the stock type coolheads work? Do you need cut stroker domes?
  22. So I got a brand new set of black plastics and took a warning label off. I used some acrysol on the adhesive for the label and now I have a nice hazy patch on my brand new fenders. I need something permanent to shine these things back up. I was thinking something like meguiars or 3m plastic polish. What do you guys do? Im not looking for something like armor all or silicone spray on them. I need a permanent solution to restore the surface.
  23. possibly, you need to check the clearances around the bearings when installed in the case. If it is moving around, thats bad.
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