Snopczynski

either your axle lock nuts are not pulling all your axle parts far enough over, or your swingarm was manufactured improperly. if the old setup lined up, then the problem is in the new parts installed.

ok, I saw you get on last night.

lvl 29 now.

I broke down and did prestige mode. level 24 now.

mic the cylinders and see if the ports still can be worked to run with the crank. Also need to check the exhaust port height to see where your duration is at.

So are those cylinders you bought the dune port cylinders? Or do you already have a set of dune port cylinders also? I assume you ride this quad in the sand? I dont recommend the cheetah cub for all around riding in the sand. It is a top end power oriented setup usually used for drag racing. If I did a setup like that I would roll with the cheetah power valve setup. Cheetah Link However, depending on what the porting is like in your current sets of cylinders, they may be able to be ported to run with a stroker crank. They need to be mic'ed out though.

Also, what types of riding do you do with this quad?

And paddle tires!

your gonna need to measure the intake sizes, transfer sizes, and exhaust port sizes. Also the intake and exhaust port heights and the transfer heights then report back. Most of the time when doing a stroker motor like say a 4mm. Then all the bottom port window heights have to be extended 2mm down. Also need to know the exhaust port width and your bore size. You cant tell much by just looking at pictures.

Wont shift in any gear, or just a certain gear (gears)? Please better describe the issue. Its definitely not normal for a banshee not to shift at high rpm. The trans will always work if nothing is broken, bent, worn, and your using good oil.

why does jetting matter, thats up to the buyer.

Looks like a 32mm mikuni vm then. Your stock carbs could be bored to 28mm.

Yeah, I ride with him and have known him since I was 7 years old. I usually drive over to his house when I need to talk to him.

I have a welded bowl I can sell you for about $10 + shipping.

Got Elfed Link

You know who Dave Roberts is?

coolhead 19cc domes, pro circuit pipes, single pwk 35mm carb, k&n pod filter with outerwear, v-force reeds, dynoport port job, cascade heavy duty clutch, 3 stock springs and 3 toomey springs, pancake bearing clutch adjuster, rs 200w stator, lightened rs flywheel, stock bore wiseco pistons, home made double wide pegs, dual rib front steer tires, 22x11x8 10 paddle skat super lites, 13/46 gearing, +6 swingarm w/round carrier, +6 timing on the rs stator plate, maxima mtl 85w trans oil, fly quick adjust easy clutch perch, works front shocks for 180lb rider ( I weigh 165 lbs), chrome d-bar handlebars, cascade gear slammer shifter, and a hide a key in a pear tree. :biggrin: I noticed I may have a bad crank bearing, so I have to check that out, it may be getting a 4mm tz hot rods long rod crank, and 795m pistons.

the worst part of the whole deal besides making a 3 into 1 pipe was figuring out the gearing. Then having a 530 chain sprocket made. The sprocket ended up being the size of my head.

Probably 400-600 degrees.

The headpipe on a properly jetted motor should see 1250 degrees.

h2 is a Kawi 750 triple 2-stroke. Unfortunately thats the only pic I have.

We put one in a 1986 lt250r chassis back in 1993. We built a 3 into 1 pipe for it, and turned the cylinders around so the carbs faced forward. we had 3 mikuni tm 34mm carbs on it. Its the one all the way to the left. you can see the side covers sticking out.

engines running race gas a little rich will have dark plugs. If the left side crank seal is leaking and the motor is running lean on the left cylinder the plug will burn red if using leaded race fuel (additives in the fuel).

Sometimes the cogs on the side of the gear that engage get rounded or damaged and the gear will slip. Split the cases and take a look at it. Make sure your chain is not actually slipping though.

my pwk 35mm did that. Just replaced it and it has been ok.