shanYE west

It was awhile ago in one of my catalogs... I thought it might be motosport outlet but I went to their site and couldnt find anything. so I dunno.. maybe I just had a brain fart or somthing. It has been know to happen a time or two. :biggrin:

Pressure plates dont have to be warped to be bad. They do wear.

I change my clutch once a year and for 15.00 for a new pressure plate... why not?

If it was me. I would replace the pressure plate and replace your springs. Barnett springs like to loose tension very quickly (aslo heard this from a very reputable builder) and I'd bet thats why your clutch is sliping. Buy a set of Toomey springs (15.00) and use 3 of them and 3 new springs of your choice and it should fix your problem. Or all 6 Toomey springs dependnig on how much motor you have. There is many people running 80+hp using Tusk kits and having good luck with them. If you feel like you need different clutch set-up, I'd check into getting one from Jeff @ F.A.S.T

No thanks, been down that road already. I'll stick with what I'm using. I might try one of those Barnett pressure plates somtime though.

My cousin has a drag ported cub and he's using 38 TMX's. Any idea of a starting point? I've never dealt with the mikuni's and need to know what Mains, needles to start with. Elevation close to lvl and has your typical set-u for a drag cub.

I thought for sure I saw them somewhere for 599.00 but now I can't find them... Maybe I was seeing things.

I've used tusk kits in alot of bikes as well as many other people on this site and seem to be pretty happy with them. I personaly will never run another barnett clutch. Their springs loose tension very quickly and plates glaze easily. But thats my opinion... I think the problem is is not in the clutch but in other componets like Blueshee said. (pressure plate and inner hub) I replace the presure plate everytime I change the clutch pack and if the inner hub is groved a bit I replace that also. The clutch pack is only as good as the rest of the clutch componets.

I use Engine Ice with alky.

396.85cc's

The push rod welded itself to the actuator arm? I've heard of the ball welding to the pushrod but not the rod welding to the actuator arm.. :shrug: I'd buy a new arm, pushrod and ball and get a pancake bearing and it should be fine.

I use honda 80/85 trans oil.

you need replacement reeds? or do you need the reed valve assemblies? I got a brand new set of replacement reeds if thats what your looking for.

Dont you think it'd be a good idea to call duncan racing and see if they made pipes specific for the J-arm frames and rule that out??

I would have to say as long as its the stock frame (modified or not) and the motor is banshee based its still a "Banshee" but as long as its banshee powered.. I'll still say its a banshee. If you took a corvette motor and put it in a dune buggy would you still say its a vette? But on the oppisite side of the coin.... If you put a different engine in a vette.. would you still call it vette? In the long run.. its all in the eye of the beholder.

Are you putting the airbox lid on when you put the filter back on?

what type of filter system are you using? Stock filter with box and lid? Pro-flow kit with or with out lid? need a little more info in that department. Also... what was just fixed?

I agree, If your going to do a 7mil might as well go with the 10mil. Unless your racing and need to be in a certain displacement class like 450cc and lower.

Sunoco, citgo, torco, and cam2 are a few of the cheaper race fuels around here. they all around 5.00/gal except for the citgo and it was 4.25. But thats in my neck of the woods too.

Man I love those GT arms! I'm gettin a new set of arms next year. It will either be GT or metal tech.. I'm thinking it will be GT though.. them things just look killer!

Doesn't elka make some stabilzers? I thought I remember seeing them somewhere.. Not sure if they make them for the banshee or not.

I usually use a impact to get the flywheel nut off... That didn't sound good did it?

What elevation are you and do you have the the air box lid on or off? Your going to have to find out what jetting you currently have(Mains, Pilots and Needle clip position) and if you have aftermarket reeds. Someone on here should be able to get you in the ballpark on your jetting. Just need a little more info is all.

Summit racing also sells a powder gun pretty cheap. Wouldn't be bad for small things like a-arms and stuff. Dont know if I'd try a frame though... But thats just me.. I'm kinda lazy when it comes to stuff like that.

Yeah Mine are the Hi-Revs, I didn't get any pics of my mids when I had them. Thats why I wasn't sure if it would help him or not. The bend on the Hi-revs tuck into the frame more and really put a pinch on the upper coolant line. Sorry for the confusion, the pic was more for reference on the position of the labels like you said.