shanYE west

Use Paul Turner pipes.

might try checking for some refurbs on ebay.. Got my clutch lever for under $20 shipped and it came with a 1yr warranty from ASV.

ahhh man.... the only oil I use too.....

then it sounds like a jetting issue. If its not dome configuration and its not fuel supply..... any air leaks? was a leak down done? if all things check out.. then its gotta be jetting. Did you try drilling the jets bigger?

Sure can!

"optimal timing" is going to vary from motor to motor depending on dome design...

I agree with Roger.. Sounds like a fuel issue... What temps are you guys riding in over there?

The linkage just gives the shock a better progressive rate... Hence the stock rear shock is a single rate spring. As long as the shock is setup properly for the setup you choose.. they both work fine. IMO the progressive rate that the link provides doesn't affect the drag bikes much. Most of the bikes with the long swingarms only use 12-12.5" shocks.. which only have about 4-6" of travel. So my vote goes to a no-link setup unless your swingarm is already a link style. (I've used both in the dunes) Like J-madd said, Its not worth spending the extra money to go to a no-link if you arleady have a swinger and shock setup for a link.

The bolt your talking about must be the adjuster for the adjustable reach. Since I dont use headlights I removed the stock kill/headlight switch and went to a YZ style kill. Much cleaner looking if your not using head lights.

I concur!

Sometimes measuring is a option thats not available. My chassis wasn't done yet and I needed to get my shocks ordered because yarnell was 3 months back ordered.. Yes.. measuring is the best way to know what your getting... but somtimes you need to wing it and get the most information you can to make the best decision possible.

Actually to get the arms level you'll need about a 12" I was using a 12.25" shaw on the front of mine with stock arms and I was a just tad postive from level.

They are just as reliable as a stock stroke crank as long as your good with your maintainence and such.

People say the same thing about my shee.. lol why? because I guess I'm a "extremest". Their only 8's.. I only had about 5" of mounting depth to work with and most 10's are too deep. I'm going to build a new box. Either going to do 3 of them ported or 4 sealed. Havn't made my mind up yet.

heres mine. Its a 2000 F250 superduty crew cab. Onesickcrewcab has a nice install too.

$375 shipped... Going to Ebay soon.

bump again..

Thanks guys, TTT

Maybe a DB or so.. but I never had them mic'd.. they run 79.99 ea. from Toomey.

I'm selling a set of chrome T-5's for my brother. The chrome is in good shape with some blueing near the flange. The left pipe has a little dent by the exhuast flange.. I think it was from the tab on the frame rail. The right pipe as a very small dent near the pipe/silencer joint. All in all very minor and they dont affect anything, I just want to let people know about it and describe everything the best I can. Overall the pipes look very good and the chrome shines nicely.. its not dull and dingy. Stingers and silencers are included.. I just didn't have a chance to take a pic of them yet. $400 shipped also have the Toomey snap in sparkies that could be thrown in for 475 shipped.

Yes.. there suppose to be different.

ohhh.... I guess I was in too much of a hurry and didn't really read it through! lol My bad Austin... Dont send me that PM! I'll catch up with ya in chat and talk to you about it.

It's been covered a million times. Try the search and see what you can come up with. But... You'll either need a spacer plate or domes cut for the 4mil crank. Also, I would strongly recommend porting although its not "needed". But to get the most out of it.. your gonna need it.

Austin.. Send me a PM with what your looking for in a trade. Bump for a cool cat! :biggrin:

nothin but quality products from Chariot.. I got a nice goodie list I have to pick up from them list winter also..