jankab
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Everything posted by jankab
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try that one again, I redid it
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Broken rod or piston, you have to tear the top end off
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Take off the clutch cover, then the 6 bolts that hold on the pressure plate and the rod should come out. Honestly you should consider buying a manual (for all torque specs etc...)
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YES
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I have a bunch of banshee parts on Ebay, check my other auctions and feel free to make offers http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29296-2357-0...riptionANDimage http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29296-2357-0...48782242&lk=URL Item #4648773361 CPI's gone
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Yes, make sure all of your o-rings are seated properly, you will have to take the head off
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Installed Cool Head, Now it's running on one cylinder
jankab replied to Stinger's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Sounds like you might have a leaking head, some times (even with new parts) the head surface isn't flat and you have to run it on a surface block. Or it could be one of your o-rings is pinched -
Hinson Pressure Plate vs. Direct Drive Lock Up
jankab replied to FireHead's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
The hinson pressure plate is a little thicker, which means the lock up arms will swing a little less. I used one on my 10 mill and didn't have any problems. What kind of clutch are you using? -
http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...&cat=221&page=1
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Just ordered some .20 Vito's Superstocks
jankab replied to differentstrokes's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I've never had a problem with their stuff -
Did you check your plugs? If one cylinder is sucking water it will run lean and the plug will be whiter than the other.
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Is it OIL or water?
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Well, when you first fill a side cover the oil level will seem high until you start it or let it sit for a while. then it will even out. If you're sucking oil into the crank case it usually has a pretty dramatic affect on the motor. Also just a suggestion I run 2 quarts on my lock up cover
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I run mine at 1200 for a max temp, haven't burned it down yet
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Here's the part# 93102-12321-00
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Air leak, le the bike idle and spray around the cyl base and intakes if it goes to stall when you spray a certain area you've found your leak
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Get rid of those t6's if you're going to use them on a ported motor, I'd get your crank trued and welded with a new bearing or bearings, then get a 68mm bore cub top end. And for pipes, shearer or cpi. Best bang for your buck.
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I agree
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Best way to attack it is swap carbs, and you can swap coil wires, see if the problem follows the swapped parts
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Yep Benoil is what I use 28/1
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If you look @ the pic you have the white plastic cover for your shift drum, to the left of it there's a hole with a aluminum then to the right if it there's a hole with a plug missing, you need that plug
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That's funny, I never had any problems with mine, but I did assemble true and weld it.
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OK, from the pic it looks like the shift fork guide plug is missing, if your cases are broke, you need to have them welded to hold up for the long term
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Check this out, this should do you good http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...&cat=200&page=1
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Toomey always worked good for me