midnite

For my style of riding, I like my pro curcits better than my t3 toomeys.

Banshee boy 98, I live just south of you, so we ride roughly the same elevation. My 99 has pro curcit pipes, no lid, and a proflow. It was jetted at 300 mikuni main when I got it. I finally tried some 310 mikunis, and it worked fine. So I tried some 320 mikunis today. It runs great. Tomorrow, I'm trying some 330s. Imo, I think you are very lean at 270s. With 19cc domes you need high octane gas. 16 cc 210 lbs. - 115 Octane 17 cc 200 lbs. - 112 Octane 18 cc 190 lbs. - 110 Octane 19 cc 180 lbs. - 105 Octane 20 cc 170 lbs. - 98 Octane 21 cc 160 lbs. - 91 Octane 22 cc 150 lbs. - 91 Octane

I owned a 2001 ds for 2 years {traded it for a shee on this site}. It's more of a luxury cruiser than a race bike {unless you want to race a baja}. They are ultra reliable, and ultra comfortable. On the other hand, the ds isn't very nimble, and has an overall sluggish feeling to the handling. That was my main gripe, the handling. Ds=caddy, banshee=corvette.

Found this over at ps. 16 cc 210 lbs. - 115 Octane 17 cc 200 lbs. - 112 Octane 18 cc 190 lbs. - 110 Octane 19 cc 180 lbs. - 105 Octane 20 cc 170 lbs. - 98 Octane 21 cc 160 lbs. - 91 Octane 22 cc 150 lbs. - 91 Octane

I don't know your elevation, but I ride around 650 ft. My 99 has no lid with a proflow, and pro curcit pipes, and I run a 300 mikuni main jet, and I'm going to try a 310. If your elevation is 1000 ft or under, I would think you are lean. I'm not sure, but if you have 19cc domes you might need that high octane race gas.

You maybe right. Is castor 927 a semi_synthetic? Anyway, thats what I was told by a local racer who seems to know his shit. Again you may be right.

Castor and petrolium based oils should be mixed at 32:1. Semi-synthetics, and synthetics, can be mixed at higher ratios, whatever the bottle recomends. I run golden spectro at 42:1.

I'm not sure what k1-k2 means. This is just a guess but maybe k1 is the rate with the least pre-load, and k2 is the rate with the most pre-load. The front springs are dual rate, so maybe thats what k1 - k2 means. I don't know.

87-89---k1-7.7 lb/in. k2-8.8 lb/in. 1990---k1-6.4 lb/in. k2-7.5 lb/in. 1991-on---k1-5.9 lb/in. k2-7.5 lb/in. The rear spring rates are- 1987-1990---364 in.-lb. !991-on---308 in.-lb. Seems wierd that the fronts are so weak compared to the rear, but these numbers are from a banshee clymer.

The 87 and 88 banshees had 13-42 gearing. They were also sold new with 22 inch rear tires. When yamaha switched to 20 inch rear tires, to compensate they re-geared the banshee to 14-41.

How much for the TRI-Z ?????????

I would go with pro circuts for trails. My 87 has t-3's, air box lid removed, pro flow, porting, shaved head, welded crank, and 330mains. This combo isn't too hot for the trails. Constant clutch feathering, and when it comes on the pipes, it's time to let off. On the other hand it's wicked hard core in the open. Love them toomeys in open spaces {maybe I'll try some rockets in the future}. My 99 has pro circuts, airbox lid removed, pro flow, porting, shaved head, 4 degree timing advance and 300 mains. This is a great combo for trails. Lots more mid range zip than the toomey set up. In open spaces my 99 is pretty fast , but my 87 will stomp it in 6th gear.

What pipes are you running? Whats your elevation?

Any mid 80's to late 90's yz clutch lever perch will work, and is a perfect fit for the stock banshee clutch lever. Parts unlimited makes a yz perch for $5.99 from dinnis kirk. Have them on both my shees. For $2 more you can get a rubber dust boot to cover the perch. Like I said the stock lever fits perfectly in this perch.

Parts unlimited makes great brake pads for banshee. $19.99 per caliper.

I have razr's on my shees. Really good tires. I had kenda klaws on my ds and liked them too. I've never used them, but I hear holeshots are pretty good. You couldn't go wrong with any of these. Price wise the klaws are hard to beat.

The ds has been traded to nutcase over 3 weeks ago, sorry. It sounds like you have a nice banshee to trade.

Aftermarket shocks are great, but first add more pre-load to your rear spring, and see if you like that.

How about polished/billet cases, chrome pipes, green frame, all black plastic, green seat cover, and polished wheels. Maybe some green graphics.

Silver metal flake, with candy blue flames

The t5 is a top end pipe. The pro curcit is a mid range pipe. I guess you need to figure out where in the rpm range you want to make the most power. Any aftermarket pipe will give you more power than the stocker. The boost bottle is worthless, it doesn't make any more power than the stock crossover tube, save your money. This is my opinion, but I would stay away from dyno jet kits for many reasons. 1- Dyno jet main jet numbers mean different things than a mikuni jet numbers [300 mikuni main jet flows more gas than a 300 dyno jet main jet]. 2- a dyno jet kit for banshee is $79.99, and only has 2 sizes [270 or 280 and a 330]. Mikuni jets are $5 for 2 from dinnis kirk.

I don't know anything about a single carb on a shee, but the needle has nothing to do with the idle.

I've got blue polyurethane gas line, carb vents and overflow tubes. Every tube connected to my carbs are blue. It looks killer cool. Got em from dinnis kirk. They have 4 or 5 different sizes. It's like $4 for 5 ft.

I've taken them off my shees. I run the overflow tube between the pipes and then cut it an inch below the frame. I've had no problems with this set up.

You need to take off your float bowl. You may have to take the float off [pull the pin that holds the float to the carb] I don't remember, and don't have one infront of me. Next, there is a phillips head screw holding a small "c" shaped piece of steel {don't know the name of it} which holds the needle valve in place. With the "hold down" removed the valve easily slides out. Put the new one in and put it back together.It's pretty simple to do your self. No more drips after that.