midnite

Thing is, if it was legal {which it never will be IMO}, it's not like you could buy a pack of 20 joints for $4 like cigs. More like $35 a gram after state and fed taxes. Growing killer weed is as simple as getting great seed, and destroying the male plants. The gov is already making killer money through fines, why legalize it?

High times .com has lots of good articles on the legalization of cronic. It seems what ever local and state laws are passed to decriminalize possesion, federal laws trump them. So much for we the people. As long as people can grow it themselves it will be ilegal, simply because what the gov can't regulate, tax, or control is illegal.

If your after great mid range power do your self a favor and send those fmf silencers back and buy one of the 2 into 1 pipes, and advance the timing 4 degrees. You'll have good bottom and great mid range power with those mods.

Ten years from now, people might talk about the good old days when you could simply change jets.

Why put a battery on a banshee at all? Get a 200 watt stator and forget about the battery. After you have the stator, and if you have to have 4 lights you could get the trail tech bar clamp lights and the stock location lights. A 200 watt stator and two 75 watt trail tech's would be plenty of light.

Hate to hear this kind of news. I wonder, was he wearing a helmet? There was a kid here who flew his banshee off into a 75 ft drop off which paralized from the neck down. He was running from the cops at night and out ran his headlights. I don't know which would be worse.

The first thing you want to do is disconnect the tors "brain box" which is located above the left hand cylinder {as you are sitting on the bike} on the frame. It's a small black box. Disconnect that and never plug it in again. To pull start it hook it to another bike/car/truck with a rope or chain. Have someone pull you to 10-15 mph. When at that speed, pull the clutch lever in, shift into 2nd gear, then release the clutch lever {have the choke pulled out}. They may have to drag you 30-40 yards before it will start.

The ball joint is welded in. When the ball joint is worn out you have to buy a new arm.

Well one reason is the ricky stator plate is $35 plus roughly $10 for shipping. Modding the stock plate costs $0.

I thought it was 1mm per degree. So 4mm = 4 degrees advanced. I've also heard 4.5 mm = 4 degree advance. If I was cutting my stock plate, I would cut it 4 mm.

While that is true, why would you want to take away the extra air the motor breaths with out the lid. IMO, it's worth the trouble to put in bigger main jets for winter and keep the extra horse power, and rpm's that you get by running with out the lid.

He said it runs good. Keep in mind the bike has no air box. My 99 has pro curcit pipes, pro flow and no lid. For summer riding, I use #30 pilots, 2 to 2 1/2 turns out on air screw, 320 mains, needle in 3rd position. For winter riding I use #30 pilots, 1 to 1/2 turns out on air screws, 340 mains, needle in the 4th position. I don't think he's rich at all. 650 ft. elevation. EDIT- I mix my gas at 42:1

Hate to sound like an ass hole, but if you were popping wheelies in a parade, lost control, bike went into the crowd and hit an old lady, you should be charged with something, and sued.

Oh yeah, sometimes a bent reed will make it start hard. I start my 87 by pulling it with my truck. Someone pulls it to 10-15 mph. With the clutch in, I shift to 2nd gear and then release the clutch lever. Useally have to drag it for 40 yards before it starts. Once warm, it starts 1 kick every time. Runs good too, until it I let it sit overnite. Then the same shit over again. It's going under the knife soon.

Hate to tell you this but it sounds like it needs rings and pistons. When your rings are shot, it will start hard when cold, 45 to 75 kicks. When the motor warms up and every thing expands you get better compression so it will start with 1 or 2 kicks while warm. Check your compression. What probily happened was you told the guy you bought it from you was coming to look at it. He pull started it and had it all warmed up for you. When you got there it started with 1 or 2 kicks. As it cooled overnite, pistons/rings contracted, giving the motor poor compression. My 87 is going through this right now. Rebuild time for both of us. My 87's right cylinder has 110 psi, left cylinder 115 psi.

The 4-strokes dominate mx racing now because the 250r is banned from racing against them. In the pro production class {where the big name racers and factory support are} you can only race a bike thats in production. Yamaha and honda pushed for the "production" rule, because they couldn't have their new 450's getting their asses handed to them on tracks by 20 year old 250r's. Anyway, I doubt I will ever buy a brand new bike. For the price of a new bike, a guy could buy a used banshee, 250r, and a quadzilla.

I bet the suzook flies around a mx track, but if I was going to get a 4-stroke it would be a raptor 700r. Bombardier also has a new 450 racer coming out [yet to be seen], which is rumored to be either an efi 450 rotax 4-stroke, or a twin cylinder, efi 2-stroke [no shit]. Bombardier owns evenrude, which designed the e-tec 2-stroke technoligy for their outboard boat motors, which have cleaner emissions than a 4-stroke outboard boat motor believe it or not. I hope bomb goes with the e-tec 2-stroke design.

I just put on some trail tech 35 watt lights today {stock location} and as soon as it gets dark I'll adjust them. My plan is to buy a ricky stator 200 watt stator in a couple of months, and just upgrade my bulbs to 75 watts apiece, since the bulbs are like $8. The lights look pretty slick. You could get the 75 watters now since ypu have the stator to run them.

Yamaha screwed up the 1987 model. Thats a newer shee.

A couple of weeks ago there was a shee for sale in pleasant plains. White fenders, yellow gas tank and radiator, black seat. Don't know the price, but it looked good. Don't know if it is still there. Coming from springfield it was on the left hand side of the street with a for sale sign on it.

I googled {type-f atf} and found out amung other things, it's a 10w20 oil. So I'm switching to type f. I might regret it, I might like it. I'm going to find out for myself. Thanks for the input everyone.

Well, I dumped it, but while I was in the shop, I looked at an older bottle of castrol 20w50 I have for my truck and it doesn't say energy conserving. So maybe the newer castrol has friction modifiers.

I did a search on oils last night. It seems widely accepted that any oil that says "conserves energy" on the back {like castrol gtx} has friction modefiers which are bad for a wet clutch. OK, so while searching here last night, many people used gtx, someone even had a link to toomey.com, where they recomend castrol gtx 20w50 {trying to sell more clutches maybe}. Anyway ATF seems interisting, but I ride every day, 1to2 hours at a time and don't want to change the atf every week {I hear you have to change it often}. I have already put the gtx in my bikes, but I,m ready to drain them tonight unless somebody can shed some light on this subject.

I bought some Castrol gtx 10w30 for an oil change on my shees. It has the" conserves energy" tag on the back of the bottle where the S.E.A. rating is [in the circle]. Does this mean it has friction modifiers or not. Alot of people here use it, so whats the deal?

Yes, you need to rejet richer. If your only going to put on pipes, try 280 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle in third [stock] position. Thing about the shee, it's very easy to get more and more power with simple mods. Getting rid of the air box lid, and puting in a proflow, getting a 4 degree timing advance stator plate, and shaving the cylinder head .030 or .035 are all cheap and very effective at making the shee a fire breathing missle. With these mods, try 340 mains and #30 pilots.