strokersquid

ive done it several times but i stopped because i didnt notice much difference. i doubt youd lean the mixture much at 1 oz per gallon since this stuff is flammable although not high octane. its quite hard to separate out the premix since all oils worth anything stay mixed these days quite well. all said however i doubt you'd see much difference in performance unless the carbs were really gummed up and then you should take them off anyways to clean them

why can a rz run on 85 octane gas but the banshee at the same psi has to run 91-93 ? any idea what psi you can 85, 87, and 91 ( CALIFORNIA premium ) octane at ? a recent thread said it would be difficult to get a 2 stroke that would have too high a compression to run 93 octane unless it hade ignition advance but we only have the piss poor 91 octane stuff

why would raising the compression shift the powerband ? wouldnt you just get more power lowr without affecting the top end ?

one thing to remember about hot rod cranks vs stock is the inside stock webs contain the pin on the stock crank and only need to be welded on the outside, the hot rods crankpin is separate from the webs and has to be welded on both inside and outside webs. if youre buying a used one make sure its welded on both sides of the pin. if you just weld the outside it will separate on the inside just as fast. stroker cranks come welded strok ones do not

i made my tester it will pressurize and read from the same site ( the intake side ). will this make any difference ? i read in here to diagnose a leaking crank seal you have to read pressure from a different site than the place you pressurized it.on a power valve can i just plug the exhaust at the exhaust port where the spigot bolts on ?

i'm a little leary about nikisil: i used to own a suzuki rgv 250 and i used to blow up regularly. it always took the nikisil with it. each time replating was $120-149 a side and took 2 months. it died in a shop fire finally

on my rz ive run .030 milled heads at 400-2000 feet altitude on regular 85 octane pump gas for over three years dont know what compression was after rebuild but now 135 both sides and exhaust port looks fine pistons do too.

it says h129 on the box, the question was how could you tell the crank inside was actually a long rod stroker crank and not just a long rod crank. its hard to measure the thing with only a basic slide caliper type micrometer but the results are close enough to tell me its a 4 mm stroker

thanks for telling about the # on the rod. if i had known that before, i wouldnt have to measure it indeed says 158 on the rods

it is pink in the center but so is the stock one. i just figured out though the webs are the same the stroker crank pin is further out on the web. the difference between the web end and the end of the pin is different between the two and the strokers is .09" closer to the web end x 25mm/in = about .2mm x2 per stroke = about .4mm or thereabouts. on this site i saw a crank with a blue mid thingy and i thought this signified a stroker.

just bought a long rod stroker crank on ebay new. box says .04 and rods are clearly longer than the stock hot rods crank i have but how do i know its a stroker ?the webs have the same #s written on them as the stock webs but the rods do have different #s than the stock hot rod crank.

i have bought a !st over cylinder on ebay but it has a small amt of damage on the lower side of the exhaust port. this is a couple of chips about 1-2mm by 1-2mm without any other damage. will this come out with porting or is it shot and i should return it. i hate to send it back since it is such a small bore and i could get a lot of use out of it.This is an rz cylinder with power valves.

yes, i dont use synthetic to break in although on a 2 stroke its not as important as a 4 stroke. also dont raise the prremix ratio as you actually want some wear to occur. the actual break in period is pretty short- warm it up a couple of times and then drive it at varying speeds once and youre done.

only bought this to try and figure out what size pistons i need ( i have some in various oversizes ) ill let the shop do the rest.i have an outside micrometer and i have a set of just rebored .03 jugs. could i use these as a reference or is the bore not that accurate when you get them from the shop ?

trying to measure some rz barrels i have and bought a storm brand bore gauge but it didnt come with instructions and they did not respond to my letter. when you choose a bar length ( in most cases 2.6 " ) and get a measurement in thousands of an inch from the dial do you then subtract this ( after all the measurement is how much the cylinder wall is indenting the gauge ) from 2.6 " ?

.003 is almost certainly .030. also although wiseco does not make a ..070 piston ( anybody know why ? ) pro-x does

by the sounds of things you're being treated for otitis externa an, infection of the outer ear canal. you may have now developed an otitis media, an middle ear infection, and this does require oral antibiotics. at least call your dr he/she may call you in some antibiotics

with all the money lost by the hosting cities in the last several games ( reimbursed by the taxpayers ) im glad we didnt get hosed to dump money into NY. hope you guys do better in london but i doubt it

i own several rz 350s and banshee cranks fit and are better. i bought a stock hot rods crank on e bay supposedly only run 4 hrs and welded. the bearings look good but the big end clearance is .030 on one side ( which on a stock rz crank would be at the service limit ) the crank is only welded at the outer pins and not in the inners and the loose side inner pin is not flush with the web, but puuled in slightly. should i return it or is this ok. i spent $275 on it but i thought it was worth it if as advertised