strokersquid

does any aftermarket head fit a 68mm cub or do you have to specify 68mm or modify a stock bore one ?

also may be printed on the side on the flat hex part

im trying to buy a rz stroker engine from somebody. its got a wiseco +4 lonrod crank but it doesnt have the special pistons. seller says the squish is correct. can this mak :shoothead: :shoothead: e up for the lower pin height of the stock piston ?in that case youre wasting the long stroke dwell ?

what high compresion head ? did you skim it .030" ( or up to .070 ) or is there an after market head i dont know about ?

thats low but not horrible i dont think it will cause reaaly bad running

on the other hand i have 30s with 250 mains 30 pilots and middle clip on mine but theyre round slide mikunis

i have a set on a street rz bored 28 to 29.5mm and they are the cats ass but they were set up by dale alexander . i have a street rg500 suzuki bored 28 to 30 flat slide and the bore is slightly bigger than he slide so it does leak some air by but it too far outperforms the stock. as for the rz im told unported motors dont do as well with the bigger carbs and this is the best compromise. probably true of banshees too.

do banshees have vacuum petcocks like rzs do ? if so make sure the vacuum line is on the tap or try it in prime

actually worked quite well on my rz street bike

would you need to go to race gas if you do this ? would it need higher octane ?

whats wrong with the cranks ? I bought a stroker from them but Im waiting for next rebuild

if its a yam gasket and your heads not cut you can try reusing after cleaning well with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. it worked for me

actually theyve got a good rep but way behind on work last i heard

ive got one but best to hear from somebody who does it a lot. manuals are often written by people who can tear an engine down and build it for pictures but not much else

does the pin come out easy ? i dont care about the piston but i dont want to mess up the rod.

ive done this too many times...use a coal chisel and hammer. notch the bolt head where the " x " ends and pound the hell out of it counterclockwise. just dont slip and hit the cover!

RZs are safe to .030" milled-Ive had 3 done and run them on regular 85 octane. i have another done to .020" all have been fine but blow non yamaha head gaskets

cut out should go towards the front, that is the air filter side not the reed side, right ?

take off the circlip, then the pin, then the shaft pulls through from the water pump side after you take off the gear

had a friend who raced rzs with lectrons said the quality control was bad : the same # needles would measure all over the place

better stay in maine if you want to live on 24k a year. out here in Ca youd need 5x that to break even.

seb4lo you said on the rd/rz forum that cubs were too much for a street rz so ive not orderred them. are they ok for a street rz ( i have a 4mm long rod crank im keeping in storage for my next street bike rebuild )

on the rz web site they said to grt some 1mm gasket stock and cut your own base gaskets. but then you still have 1mm to make up on the stroke and for best compression evidentally you cant just cut 1mm out of the head and thats it. you cut the old head 1mm you put the head on w the old head gaskt and a piece of solder in the squish, kick it over a couple of times, disassemble and set the squish by milling whatever you need off. this is to keep the port timing good if you dont want to port it. anybody know an easier way ? i believe rz and banshee port timing is the same

is the banshee compression #s the same as an rz engine ? i have an rz which reads under 100 psi and it runs fine and on their website they said leave it alone

check your compression with the engine hot ? ive always done it cold. why ?