strokersquid

its clear to me the porting is like dimples on a golf ball that improve air flow. if it were me id set up an ebay account, sell a few small items to get a good rating then flog this "as new" payment by money order only. when the buyer complains, string him along until after the 60 day feedback limit by promising a refund. when you get it back you can ignore the emails because now you have the $ and the shee again. you can even do it a second time. i learned this from EXTREME BANSHEE with a crankshaft...

i saw that in the vitos website too and took this to mean its a stroker crank that is not a long rod like hotrods are. you could use any piston type except the special wiseco long rod type but im not sure how long the engine would last compared to a 4mm longrod. you may only be able to take it to lower redline...

milling the head works. ive done it .030" but others do less. i run on 87 octane no problems

had to be the carb cleaner. its flammable and stayed in the crankcase

thanks for the info about the rd 350 and reed spacers. its good to hear more than what the guys on planet sand say. i dont have a 10mm cheetah mill and its not worth 10 k to me to get one. it is interesting to check out planet sand but im in a different world

i want to use them to install v force 2 reeds without having to cut the intake boot. anybody done this ?

on a ypvs motor with 30mm carbs and rather messy low end jetting ( too rich ) it did help a lot at the low end

had a set of ported pistons in my rz street bike and eventually the skirt did break after 5k mi. i replaced with plain wisecos and i cant tell any difference

better take off the clutch cover and take a look. if it was recently worked on it may not have been put together right. spring has to be put on the correct way, opposite the way it looks like it should. gear drive is nylon and breaks easily

bought a pair of v force 2 reeds/cages. they didnt come with an intake boot so im not sure there is one. i want to put them in a rz engine but i,d have to cut back the inner portion of the intake boot where it protrudes. do the banshee v force reeds come with an intake boot i didnt get ? do i need to cut the face of the stock intake boot flat to make them fit ?

good advice. put on a kick starter and it pulled 120 both sides. this is great by rz standards

a friend gave me an rz engine he raced a few years ago. leak testing shows leaks at the inner power valve seals but nowhere else. it doesnt have a kick starter, thats blanked off. if i put a wrench on the alternator i can get 70 lbs compression which isnt much, or would it be higher if i was able to kick start it ?i only have a hand wrench not a air wrench. when i pulled the head the pistons were unused ( totally clean )

what do you have and what do you want for it ?

with the increase in piston speed in 7 and 10mm stroker cranks is there a lower rev limit and what is it for each

saw a pair of ESR cylinders for sale, are they any good ?

you can find half links but ive never used one

with the powervalve heads ( rz ) the stock work best if the head is cut. if not any brand will work

is the low end and mid torque better than rz cylinders with the power valve ?

is the low end and mid torque better than rz cylinders with the power valve ?

at stock theres a very shallow rim around the squish area at .030 " this is gone

im eventually going to build a rz motor for my race chassis ( which means the frame and suspension can take extra power ) would the cub stroker be better than a cheeta powervalve ? im going to ride this (fast!!!) on the canyons and track but it cant all be top end. what do you reccommend ? im speaking of an rz street bike

i have an rz street bike with a .030 shaved head and i run 85 oc tane without any problems for years i live at 500 ft and ride up to 2500 ft and im hauling. i run the oil pump and premix 1/2 cc/gal but i use synthetic blend marine oil (penzoil) and no problemo

i keep hearing v force reeds ane the cats bollocks but would they make sense on a mildly ported rz engine with 30mm carbs or do you need big time mods to make them worthwhile ?

next rebuild im getting a stroker done with porting. it will need bigger carbs. the guys on the forum seem to like kiehn pwk carbs but theyre much more expensive than the mikuni flat slides. why the pwks ?

when it does this and you back off the throttle does it get better right away ? its probably lean then. when its too rich it tends to sputter and get better when you first crank her open er i mean open the throttle