trickedcarbine

Ya. That took some fine tuning on mine as well. The mull star seems to get along with the really soft detent spring with the shift pro.

It's been down for two years and his Facebook is fucking lacking. A premium example of why Facebook listing is nonsense. But roger is very easy to get in touch with and will always give you his undevided attention.

Something like that will probably need a 30 pilot needle all the way rich or one clip from it, and maybe a 320 pilot. The super stocks act like port work so the jetting needs to accomidate.

If it's big bore, they should have re worked the head. Nothing done to it at all?

It adds just a touch more travel to the shifter so you can get a more positive feel as it rolls the shift star/drum over to the next gear. Stock shaft Modded shaft Stock and modded shift star as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Oh shit, then do the other shit and maybe try some carbs if ya got dough left. Depending on the port work, I'd say 28 or 33 PWK's

I was referring to machining the stock head. Might be a cheaper route then a cool head and domes, since you mentioned you're not ready to dump to much yet. Those stock carbs are good to 70+ hp. Going much bigger on carbs would kill the bottom end on your bike. But if you decide to port the cylinders, carbs would be totally worth it.

It's basically an old bolt. Think of how hard that gear lever has been smashed down over and over through the years. The thing you feel when it stops is that bolt. Get the old one out and grab a new one through a site sponsor. I'd say just call Jeff at fast and get a modded shaft and the new eccentric stuff. He mods the shaft for peanuts if he even does charge ya.

Ya, then: -Cool head or mill and Rechamber your stocker -VF4's -timing plate Shift mods: -mod the shift shaft -mod the shift star -detent arm with bearing -pancake bearing

Any interest in doing internal engine work? Otherwise I agree with the above.

Sure you are! Your opinion differed from the new guys!

I'd like to save one dollar bob. I'll trade you my neck and my T6 vertibre.

Regular rod length is 110mm center of eye to center of eye. By adding rods that are 5mm longer you take stress off the exhaust side of the bore and piston by having less angle. Doing so requires a piston with different wrist pin height so that the piston isn't an additional 5mm out of the bore.

ATV Galaxy

No, direct whoever said that to your closest middle finger.

I just don't get how there are all these low traffic sites that pop up and attract the same crowd, go stale, then ultimately shut down. Why go through the trouble any more?

Many machine the inner hub, or a combo of machining on the inner and outer pressure plate. Definitely need longer adjuster

Bummer

Those write ups were on E2S right?

Deadbeat is a fucking DICK! But that's why I like him. Bump for kick ass deal if it didn't get sold at LSOK.

That's a good start to work off of.

<asshole

Well I kinda get where Tony is coming from. He's not keeping a secret to be an asshole. It's just how he happens to pay his bills, so it's probably not the best idea to give all the details. He is usually pretty helpful if you're buying stuff though, it just comes with it's limits. People call me all the time to look at their jobs, I get to the house and they are fucked up half way through and they want me to take an hour off from being paid doing production, so that I can drive an hour to their home to walk them through the job and then go home empty handed. So I get it. Matt, have you tried speaking with CamATV?

Just snapped this photo for ya. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I'm not sure dimensionally. I'd like for photos of that area on another bike to compare.