trickedcarbine

Clean the carbs again. And only put the freshest fuel you can get in it.

Definitely look up the leak down tool or how to make one. Maybe some one on here close to you has one or a little knowledge to share. You said you just did the top end and that one side quit smoking after break in? What was the cause of the last engine failure? There could be a direct correlation between the two. I love that someone actually searched. It'll get plenty of attention (ffs^?). New replies go to the top.

Didn't get one in that kit?

20cc is pushing it on a stocker in my opinion. Especially with the timing. It's just asking for a seperated crank. To remedy that you need to split the cases. That's a whole new can of worms. Maybe have Brandon at Mull Cut your stock head. You could even find a decent one local for cheap and ship it so you can ride till the new one gets there. Just have it set up for pump gas. Maybe he could set it up so you could add timing to, dunno he's the guy to talk to. I would ride it till it finally needs to come apart for whatever reason, then split the cases and weld the crank and have some good outer bearings put on.

You can have big Bore sleeves in them. You should probably google a little before looking like a ra-taaard. My last stock cyl motor was a Set of Vito's big bore sleeves. They went to 70mm before having any sealing issues. Motor with 4mil crank was just a hair over 440cc's.

Sure it will, motor won't need the extra fuel with a hole in each piston. OP, ride it and get it nice and dialed to where you feel comfortable with it. Then once weather starts to change and temp drops, you will need to jet to compensate. Pilot not so much, it'll probably be fine down to 40 ish with air screw adjustments, but every 15-20 degrees colder will need to see a needle and main change.

Oh contrairè, I got my air boot and have been kickin ass again. Hell, I measured a 12 pitch roof the other day. (< probably the dumbest thing ever)

That's pretty good compression

2,3,go on the shaft before you slide it in the motor.

The shifter holds it. But make sure the eccentric bolt is out enough to compensate for the little side to side movement.

Buncha crusty fucks ^

It's bad when the Latin kings are telling you that your English is off! (Jk with the LK remark possum.)

Nah, just you. The rest of us get hand jobs.

^ will stay alive though Well it should have.......

Choke tube between the carbs hooked up? Slide didn't get turned around?

Ya, no shit. Perhaps he could provide a date and time and you can look at since he won't figure it out?

FMF has three versions for the banshee. Gnarly- being their low end pipe. This oughta really wake it up down low yet still allow the bike to rev beyond the mid range a touch better then the stockers, yet will have a abrupt sign off. Probably not a good choice if you spend time in 5-6 gears out in the dunes a lot. Definitely a good idiot hole or tight trail pipe Fatty- being their mid all around pipe. It really doesn't make as much low end as he gnarly, but it will be better off idle and really charge through the mid and rev fairly ok in to the higher RPM's with more of a taper off in power unlike the harsh sign off of the gnarly. SST- being developed for more open riding is actually a pretty good dune pipe for the less built motors. It's designed to not lose any bottom but it really doesn't start to do much if anything till the bike is in the mid. It really starts to charge and carries well in to the RPMs and allows a touch of over rev.

Try loco, pretty sure he just had a frame set up by him. Not positive, but I believe special06shee has one as well. Maybe they can get you a number.

^ why

There will be as many opinions as there are brands. As long as it's a quality brand designed for performance two stroke you will be fine. No junk weed eater or equipment oil.

It's definitely the same. However if you notice that by some miricle the rotors are still smooth and not all gouged, I'd say run them. If you need some rotors get ahold of JDS for some killer rotors.

Hey, I hear the moroso stuff is pretty tough.

What's the full run down on the bike? You're sure the motor is not pretty well done for? Makes good compression, passes leak down, internals are not comin apart? If you say you think it's electrical, it could be related to the powder coat. Grounds need to be spic and span before connected. Ohm the stator, check the pick up gap, shake the flywheel and listen for rattles.

The T6's actually have a much broader curve on more stockish motors. The T5's will be much more responding to modifications though, however it sounds like skitso isn't planning on any other mods so the 6's would be a better choice. OP, pretty sure that the jets in that kit will be pretty dang close. I did a T5 kit for a guy, and I was amazed how close it was. However, is it just one set of mains included?

^ shut up already. Figure it out and post your findings. Then and only then should you say anything more Oh yeah. Then shut up again.