trickedcarbine

Who sold them to you?

Once you do it right a couple times, it makes things ten times easier.

Someone supposedly had a set going out to a builder.

Carl is on point.

What angle pods? Some times you can turn them and get room. Also, mess with the rear hanger height. A lot of pipes that call for a hanger are better off just monted to the bumper hole.

That thing is killer!

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/servlet/StoreFront

You need a kryptonite brand lock. Anchor it to the concrete, or run it through studs in the garage wall. If you choose the studs, you need to also put a steel plate on the faces of the 2x studs. Secure them with lags, use a socket that is a little big to round off the lag bolt heads.

There is a thread here with a quick walk through on how to build one

He was referring to a post above yours.

Look at JD's RotoPak. It's a slim bumper/fuel tank and it is removable.

Hmm. The porting is really gonna dictate how much fuel that'll eat. If it isn't to aggressive I'd start about 50 pilot, needle middle clip, 150 on the main. Work your way down. Probably end up with a 48 pilot, needle one clip from the top, 145-148ish main. The idle on those arbs is different. Here is the easiest way. Get both chokes turned all the way in and seated. Now use paint pen or white out to mark the knobs so you can keep track of their location. Back them both out 7 1/2 turns. If the pilot is on that should get you in the ball park.

Trouble shooting list -Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically) -Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate) -Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?) -Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs) -Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through -Connectors cleaned and greased -New spark plugs -Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in -New plug boots -Ohmed and tried known coil -Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up -Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly -Disconnected the tether switch -Test kill switch -Swap coil -Swap CDI -Swap stator Random stuff from electrical FAQ: At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Stihl..... Pshh. Should see what I can do to a bag of cotton with this monster! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed on the filming

Bet fellas that own them could help ASAP if you give them a quick photo

Keihin carbs or mikuni's?

^ answer

I read that last time you posted it long ago. Was always curious how they graded that. Is it on a bike?

Did you get a decent grade on it?

Ya don't say?

Don't just check the connections, check the leads going in to the back of each connector fitting.

Meh, not sure if you realize how that's actually gonna work out. Nice thought though.

Nah, it's been along time. A lot of his stuff goes with out a hitch. However out of his transactions, it seems like 15-20% is always a catastrophe. When that moment hits, he's usually not worried about getting it right. Not good odds in my opinion.

Whoa ! It's possible you won't need a bore. Just a home may do. But you already stated the important part is getting it opened up.