trickedcarbine

Ahh, the needle and seat again. Huh? If it's over flowing, it's not having a problem filling. Fuel out the over flow wouldn't have an effect on a machines performance.

Get naked, find internet porn, finish, order K&N or similar filter oil from internet, go back to wanking while waiting on package to come. (Hey, that's a cheezy pun)

Wow rockinrail, that's legit!

I'm with Wayne on this one. Take the air box or filters off and any plastic off the front. Start cranking the bars and looking at what's doing something funky. Could be a simple electrical connection, a wire that's bare, throttle cable getting bound, etc. Normal tune up stuff: -Clean carbs, figure out if jetting is appropriate. -change plugs -make sure the motor isn't eating coolant -inspect test electrical -ditch old fuel -check for air leaks - make sure electrical components and wires aren't laid all over each other.

Please feel free to create your own topic. Oh, and some punctuation couldn't hurt either.

He says 250mm piston to 310mm piston, not CC's. That's almost more moronic then you initially thought. There's no way you can put a piston in there that is 2" bigger...... Perhaps he is measuring circumference? The throttle body part is funny.

Need pics of actual ports in the bore. Pics of bottom of cylinder where the transfers are. Just the intake won't tell ya much. Also some heights of top and bottom of each port from the deck height.

When you pull the bowl off the carb, there will be two different brass jets. One will be 1/4 hex shape. That will be the main. The little one that's recessed with a flat head screw driver cut , that is the pilot. Pull those and tell us what numbers are on both.

The black one with the spring in that pic is the idle screw. You can just get them close then fine tune them with feeler gauges or a sync tool to make them totally even. No set amount of turns. Just turn them both equally till the bike idles. Then fine tune. The air screw is the little brass flat head. On Keihin carbs with a good tune up, the air screw should be 1-2 turns out max. Any thing different, and you need a different pilot. I'd bet I that thing isn't ported you are a touch rich on the main. But typically to be fouling due to jetting, you gotta be pig rich. Not just sort of rich. (As sleeper mentioned.) Definitely look at electrical, and coolant system.

This^

Yep, boom.....

But I looked at it, plus I did it all correctly....

You can definitely make equal to or more power by going to a 4mm. You can also switch your current set up by just having differnt domes cut.

Just a beat up junker, might sand out the scratches for him. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Right on. Honestly looks good. I'm just sketched out on those if there's anything other then glass like surface.

It's cold, so it's not starting. That means the bike is telling you something..... When it gets cold the air is denser. That means the bike is getting more air. When you have more air, you need more (XXXX)?

Looks good for another single arm death trap.

That's good knowledge for a Vehichle drag racing...... surprised it took so long for that to be asked.

True, but doubtfull in this case. OP. was it makin the coolant system gurgle when you kicked it or ran it?

hmm, i bet you wouldnt catch Brandon posting his updated work these days

who is this BJ feller? ^

How did you know the head gasket looked good if you haven't pulled it yet? White smoke is coolant. NO bullshit, you need to tear it apart and I would be willing to bet you have gulled up aluminum down the bore. Should clean up with some acid and a hone though. Even if the head gasket looks fine, pull the jugs as well.

jeff at fast

Dese mufukkas

Hmm, Eyeball Engineering? If you can get in touch with them, try pullng a number off what ever ball joints are in there now. You might even be able to get them at the local auto store.