trickedcarbine

Agreed. Don't ever see your self just putting the dunes ever, huh? Like just a stock frame and 421 CUB or something simple. Or would that just lead to the ol' "well I'm at it, I might as well just...."

Hence why you need a different lady. No more " OMG, you're really spending that money on your stupid quad." Or " No way, I'm not sucking your dick after you pull it out of some back page hookers ass!" Find someone who likes you for you...

It's cool to see how far guys will go and the trick stuff guys are coming up. But it definitely comes at a price when you start putting them on the diet that some guys do. I've definitely been at tracks and seen bikes that should not even run unless there is a fresh grade. Even then, still kinda sketchy.

It's getting there on compression, but that's just fine. Stock they're only like 130. Keep running it and start saving for a rebuild. The idle can be turned up easily.

There's a couple full kits I liked. The one WFObanshee has on the Duner is nice, Duncan/Roll, K&K, Golden Cycle West, etc. But to just start globe ring up fenders with all that..... I'm kinda in love with clean bare bikes now. Just depends. Hell, the other day I found some white decals in the shed and slapped them on my white plastics. I can barely see them and still hate them : (

Oh fuck

I keep forgetting you guys are down there! (Apologies Dunetoyz) ^ give them a jingle.

No no, that isn't chrome coming off the silencer. (Those are just brushed alum.) That is chrome coming off the stinger tube and sticking to the silencer.

< this guy if they will get naked together

Any idea on the exhaust durations? Actual Compression ratio will be considerably higher then what cranking compression will indicate if you have something in the 198-202 range. So pick your fuel type and do the tune accordingly. As far as 66.5mm pistons in the domes. I think your definitely in big bore territory but might be better off calling DriveLine or Noss Machine about domes to work with that bore opposed to just tossing 68mm domes on.

Best idea I've heard yet. (Seriously) I have a buddy that bought "Show Chrome" Shearers and brand new they had some rust bleeding through at the flanges. He cleaned them up with wd40 and steel wool and sealed them up. They literally had one outing and the chrome started to come apart and bleed rust. He sent them back expecting them to be re chromed. (Just taking them apart to ship, the chrome came off the stinger tubes and stuck to the silencers) They came back looking like some one just wire wheeled the rust and hit them with a buffer. Back they went a second time They just came back with the chrome still all fucked on the stinger tubes as well as the expansion chambers looking like some one tried to torch off the old chrome before rechroming again. You can see the flaking left at all the seams under the new chrome. To boot, pulling them out of the packaging, they already had rust forming on them. Quite fucking pitiful.... I had my early Early Nickel Shearers on hand to compare and you can tell a massive plummet in quality/craftsmanship is evident. Typically you can hide all that with a good chrome shop, but they seem to be just as bunk as the pipe construction them selves. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/bf0f7858da85a55d356253c1381e0ff5.jpg[/img Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nay on decals...

Just about any Oklahoma name there was, they are no more. Start entertaining the idea of shipping your motor out if state.

Only problem I see is that you need a another/new girl friend. The two are different depending your morals...

Towel thrown in.

They're plenty close enough to not be causing your issue.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/110585-leakdown-tester/?view=getnewpost

Lots of guys doing that easily with a bit of boost.

310-320 ish main, needle second from the bottom clip, 30 pilots. Try a 27.5 pilot as well, the Toomey's seem to feel blubbery and in my experience I've just leaned them up and been OK.

You have some serious issues going on. When they just start revving high and it's not due to a recent carb adjustment then the motor is telling you there is a problem. Typically a high rev is caused by a lean condition. In your case it's probably an air leak that's causing it. The motor needs to be compression tested and have a leak down test performed. At this point if imagine the side that is low on compression and causing the hard start issue, it's probably got an air leak. Those two steps will tell you what and why, and where to go next.

Cuz, sand ported cases.... Duh!

Deecent link indeed

Well then.... Seriously, unless you're planning on a custom chassis and 300+ HP out of a street bike motor, it'll be twice the work and effort to go as fast as a slapped together banshee based aftermarket cylinder.

You can fit 30's on them now?!