Whitey

A centrifugal supercharger and a turbo create boost the exact same way by using a compressor, the only difference is the supercharger uses a belt and a turbo uses exhaust gas. You can get different compressor trims for a centrifigal charger just like a turbo Mass flow rate is what drives a turbo. I think you have efficiencies a little backwards. When you go above a compressors efficiency (not the turbine) you start superheating your intake air temps, overspinning turbos, getting crossover and all that other fun stuff. Your compressor efficiency is what your concerned about, not the turbine. Don't get me wrong turbine sizing is still very important but its a gray area with different theories that depend on manifold design and mass flow rate prioritizing. I can run a small turbine, large compressor, give priority to an oversized wastegate and now my engine breathes as if I was running a large turbine housing. Again, your getting into more theory. What it comes down to is a 14.1 afr is safe if your not detonating. From what I have found your going to gain more on tuning your timing more aggressively than leaning out your AFR's as much as possible. If you want more piece of mind than tune it richer to a 13.1. Remember to look at the big picture by checking the plugs, EGT's (if you can) and really see what the engine is doing. You'll be able to tell what is safe and what isn't. If you melted your piston to the wall, thats just your motor telling you to richen it up a little. :beer:

a Banshee motor is naturally aspirated becuase the only intake pressure it recieves is from the atomsphere. If you put a boost gauge on a Banshee its going to read 0 boost, no matter what expansion chamber is on it.

Depends if your running an open or closed loop o2. You still should have oscillation even with a carb.

22:1 at idle is fine. It should be reading lean as hell becuase there's no strain on the motor so it should be reading mostly air. Also, during partial throttle cruising you should have an oscillation in the O2 readings, if its not your probably too rich. The only time it should have a consistent reading is at WOT. If your getting a constant reading at idle than your most likely too rich. Also 14.1 is not a bad A/F. 14.7:1 is stoich. A 12:1 ratio is something you want when running forced induction, not naturally aspirated.

looks like a stock 250R balljoint.

Wow nice work. Two questions: 1. What type of pipe bender did you use for the frame? 2. What size tubing did you make the fame/a-arms out of? Great work again. :beer:

Hey Johnny. You going to make a post on here how your 350X 3-wheeler is faster than a piped Banshee? :yelrotflmao:

Its pretty compact and your not going to really be able to see anything. What specifically are you looking for? And you'll have about enough of a chance converting an LT450 injection system to a Banshee as you do of curing cancer.

damn the only thing that sucks about that was I wanted to get some of the shirts that they were selling. The "Its not fast without mixed gas" and "if 4-strokes were fast I'd be reading your shirt" Is there anywhere else to get those shirts?

Yeah it was a company called Aerocharger (also Aerodyne I think) that made those hunks of shit. The company is now out of buisness becuase the turbos were so unreliable. Not only did they have a self contained CHRA using a type of gear oil they also had a VATN system where you didn't need to run a wastegate. It was a good idea but the turbos were just made shitty

My never ending project :: Finding time to work on it has been the hardest part of the whole project

turbo a Banshee, problem solved. The only advantage to turboing a 4-stroke is an oil pump. However thats going to change since I designed a bolt on oil pump for a banshee: A 2-stroke can do whatever a 4-stroke can, only better :beer:

Is there any place to legally ride in NJ now?

Thanks, I'll give them a call.

That makes 2 of us ::

Does anyone know where to get custom throttle cables? I need one that will connect a banshee thumb throttle to a GSXR throttle body. I would perfer If it was braided too. So anyone know of any good places? Thanks :beer:

A properly sized turbine housing and wheel trims can get rid of virtually all lag.

Knuckles McFister

Here's mine:

I just bought the PC plastic renew, it does a great job but its nothing more than commercial floor wax. I don't know if this is already common knowledge but I used to scrub and wax floors and the wax we used works and smells exactly the same way. So instead of paying $25.00 for a small bottle you can buy a lifetime supply for $10.00 With that out of the way the stuff does really work. I'm interested to see how well it'll hold up but it definitely puts the shine back into the plastics. Here's some pics: I didn't really take good 'before' pictures but here's what it did look like:

Nobody's making you do anything. Its just a priveledge you need to pay for. Lots of other forums just have donation threads.

Its also a way that people can support a forum and say thank you to the people who created and maintain this site. Websites do cost money and so does space to host pictures. If you don't like it and don't want to be a premium member than don't pay it. I know the $2.50 a month fee is a crazy price. ::

I have a set of T6's now and I'm really happy with them. I had a set of T5's and I perfer the T6's.

Are you even allowed to run quads at englishtown?

I'll definitely keep you guys updated. On my website I'll have posted exactly how you can built your own EFI kit for under $400 and will be able to handle 240whp naturally aspirated. However, I don't think EFI is going to give you that much of an advantage becuase of the weight and all the bullshit it adds. remember you need to run a battery. Once I write the code to be able to adjust the timing than its going to be pretty cool. I was thinking of building a replica kit to sell to cover the cost of my drag banshee. It would be pretty staight foreward, the only thing needed to be wired in would be the orange wire from the EFI kit to the orange wire going to the coil, everything else would be 100% bolt on. Than you could tune your shee' with a labtop and never need to adjust carbs for altitude, weather and other shit. Also the EFI kit is alchohol compatible. Just remember those plastic were just sanded with 600 grit in the picture, besides that its pretty good. Frame is straight as can be.