Whitey

The reason for the bigger turbo is that I plan on running more boost down the road so I want a turbo with potential. But mainly with a bigger turbo will put out less heat and therefore less detonation and less chance for gernading the motor. Turbo lag really doesn't bother me, I actually like it. Lag is almost like a traction control. I'm willing to sacrifice some bottom end to have a killer top end powerband and thats what the larger sized turbos do. So basically I also went with a bigger turbo becuase of personal preferance, its the powerband that I want. Also lag doesn't bother me becuase as soon as its spooled up lag is no longer an issue. The turbo isn't that big to the point that its falling out of boost inbetween gears. Trust me, lag is not going to be a problem at all. Also, when the kit is all together and done it'll take a maximum of a half hour to change out turbos so if the turbo I chose is too laggy than I'll just switch it out. But I do know that the Geo turbo is way too small. Remember cars are designed by accountants, not engineers. Most stock turbo are really undersized for car so they get better gas mileage, pollute less and have more low end response all of which I don't care about.

I'll be running around 45psi of fuel pressure. On a Taurus I did we originally had a Grand National turbo on it, V6 3.2 liter. When we upgraded to that bigass turbo at the same boost pressure we gained 8 tenths of a second. The name of the game is CFM's I don't understand why everyone is making such a big deal about the size of the turbo I'm going to use.

How many turbo kits have you done? If you build kits using stock turbos you'll know that they have no top end and they fall on their faces. I'm not an amature so I know what I'm getting into and I'm not going to regret anything. Like I said before just becuase a turbo came on a V8 doesn't mean its too big for a 4 cylinder. I'm going on my experience of building custom kits, I know what works and what doesn't work so thats what I'm going to use to build this kit. I really didn't want to get this thread off topic but since you called me out on it, here's a some kits that I've built in the past: Twin turbo Honda Civic: My current kit, with a T3/T4 60 trim: V6 Ford Taurus with a T04E .70 compressor 1.32 turbine, a turbo much bigger than any of the turbos on the powerstrokes, cummings or duramax V8 diesels: Most of these kits you would say the turbos are way too oversized but my experience showed that they just kick ass

You seem to be pretty set in your beliefs so I'm just going to drop the subject. Again, I personally like the higher CFM turbos and choose to run them for many many reasons. Lag does not bother me at all so thats not an issue. Just remember that stock turbos for turbo cars are really undersized, don't base your decision of what turbo to use on if it came off a bike than its a great turbo to use and if it was on a car than its probably too big. Most of these small turbos usually have great response (which is mostly wasted becuase of tire spin) and a big turbo has some lag (but only turbo initial spool up) but runs like a raped date in the top end and thats what I want. If I have a lop sided powerband where it has no bottom end but top end rips your arms from your sockets, than I'll consider this project a sucess.

If your IAT's are high enough to melt the reeds than you've got bigger problems to worry about. The Geo turbo's turbine A/R is way to small for the amount of exhaust a Banshee puts out. It would be like trying to breathe through a straw. Also compressors maps are a good thing to get a general idea about a turbo but they are no way a good way to pick a turbo. Most great turbo sizing is done by trial and error. If you think the seca turbo is the best one to use than go ahead and use one. I've got my turbo choices and they are the one's I'm going to use, I've been planning this out for a while. Progress is slow becuase I'm out of welding gas. Airgas closes at 4:30 and I work till 5:30 so its tough to get the supplies to start building. If this week I get done the intake manifold, fuel rail and draw up a wiring diagram I'll consider it good progress. Its tough to make progress when you don't have supplies.

I've seen that one turbo kit for Banshee's down at East Coast ATV. They said it was fast as hell but a pain in the ass. Thats becuase they had shitty fuel management. The heart and soul of a good and reliable is all in the fuel management. Turbos don't gernade motors, people gernade motors. For each psi of boost you need the right amount of fuel for it. In an all motor application you want an AFR of around 14.1, but with a turbo you want something alot richer around 12.1 to cool the combustion chambers so you don't melt pistons. As far as how the ECU works, it runs off a motorola processor, 2.5 bar MAP sensor, TPS sensor, air intake temp sensor, and coolant temp sensor. Thats all you need than you tune the motor to the volumetric efficiencies with an 8x8 fuel grid through a labtop attached to it. Just datalog the runs and make appropriate changes. Its actually not too difficult, just takes a few gernaded motors to get the hang of it Also you probably need to upgrade your injectors. The majority of stock injectors run at about an 80% duty cycle so boost maxes them out pretty fast. I'm going to run 240cc injectors on the Banshee since they're going to be good up to 110hp. Actually I'm a moderator over at www.homemadeturbo.com which is a good site to learn about turbos, its mostly Hondas but hopefully there will eventually be a variety.

As long as you don't go crazy with the boost level, keep the timing retarted slightly and have a nice rich 11.8 to 12.1 AFR, it'll be safe. And an F4i would be a cakewalk to turbo, it already has an oiling system I'm using the stock ports for now, never looked into porting yet. when the time comes I'll worry about it. Yes an expansion chamber is critical to a 2-stroke so you still need to use one. I made the ECU myself its a universal one to learn more about it go to http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html the Geo Metro turbo would choke out the motor its way too small, I know that for a fact. I really don't understand what your saying about compressor surge being caused by bigger turbos, all turbos get compressor surge without a blow off valve no matter what size the turbo. Compressor surge is caused by the backspin of the turbo after the throttle plate is closed. Simply run a bypass valve or a blow off valve and the problem is solved. turbo lag is also not an issue at all. With the v32 turbo I'm pretty convinced that lag is going to be relatively low. I also always tend to oversize turbos as well. I like the efficiencies of the higher CFM turbos anyways. Whats the specs of the Seca turbo?

I turbocharge things as a hobby so I can pick up good turbos for cheap. All of the turbos are in good working order and they are all internally gated. Except for the last one but I have an extra 38mm wategate so thats not a problem. Piping costs next to nothing since I have all the material for flanges and pipework I got from scrap from doing other cars. There actually isn't much piping involved at all with this project. The intake maniold will be made of 1.5inch pipe, the intake pleum will be a 3.5inch pipe, downpipe will consist of one 90 degree 2.5 inch bend out the back and one 2.5inch 180degree bend for the air filter. Trust me this isn't my first turbo project. On a budget of $1500 we built a 4 door pig of a Ford Taurus that ran a 12.5@117mph, my Acura Integra with a stock motor ran a 12.9@113mph and I've done a countless number of Civics, so I have a pretty good idea of what pipework for a turbokit costs. I added I've added $200 to the budget for small stuff but besides wireloom and the wire, there absolutely no way its going to be 300% more than $1200 unless I plate everything in gold and hire some strippers to put it together. lol, that first turbo if off a 1.0 liter 3cylinder Geo Metro, I wouldn't put it on anything bigger than a 5hp briggs and straton. The third one from the left is a T3 .42/.48 and the biggest one is a T3/T4 57trim .60/.63. The T3/T4 is probably going to be too big but I have it in case I want to try it out. Remember, a 2-stroke pulses twice the amount of a 4stroke and has tons more mass flow rate to spin a turbo than a 4-stroke. Possibly. But I'd need to buy pipes and jets which alone are $600 so that leaves me only $600 to put in the motor. My Buddy is building a Cheetah motor and he's up around $2000. I'm not a machinst who can build bigass motors, I'm just a regular asshole who knows a little something about turbos. With a turbo I have tons of flexibility in my powerband. And also this has been a project I've wanted to do for a long long time. I've always wanted to hear a turbo Banshee and I just want to feel what a 2-stroke powerband feels like under boost. My buddy's cheetah motor is going to be done on soon, they'll probably be about the same HP but two totally different powerbands which I think is just going to be badass to see the difference. I didn't post this on here to start shit or anything, I just thought you guys would like to see this project and what it takes to put one together. I'm sure its not going to be perfect out of the box but thats what a project is, getting it to be perfect. This is my first attempt at a turbo 2-stroke so its a learning experience for me, but I'll never learn anything if I don't at least atempt it.

The cost so far: Turbo: $60.00 Throttle bodies: $110 ECU: $180 RZ350 side cover: $65 Stuff still needed: Ricky Stator rewound stator, timing plate, flywheel and rectifier: $300 2into1 pipe: around $200 CBR oil pump: about $50 Fuel pump: $110 Total: $1075 When its all said and done it'll probably be around $1200 which isn't too bad since I can really tune the powerband by changing turbos and the power potential is crazy since I can keep upping the boost. But for right now I'm going to I'm building it in stages. First I'm going to try and get it running with just the fuel injection kit and throwing on a set of Toomey T5's. I think I might make another fuel injection kit and sell it if it turns out good. Nah he lived he was just in the hospital for a couple weeks. If he didn't bail out he would have probably got killed.

I'm finally getting started my project that I've been wanting to do for the past 10 years, turbocharge my banshee. I don't have the money for a Cheetah motor so turbo and fuel injection is cheap enough so I'm going to attempt it. I got the motor and frame for cheap off my buddy who needs the money cause he just bought a 400 Cheetah motor. Sorry for some of the blurry pics and sizes, my camera sucks: Here's the bike, it needs some TLC, a tierod and other little stuff but its straight and has potential: The motor is pretty new. The motor came out of a mangled frame from a kid who ran a stopsign and got broadsided by a tractortrailer. The frame was basically twisted around the motor. Its punched .30 over and I got some prodesign reeds and cages for it: The ECU is a megasquirt DIY kit. Its got a 2.5bar map sensor, only costs $140 and does a really good job controlling fuel. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do about timing but for right now I just got an adjustable timing plate. When I got it: completed: I'm using CBR throttle bodies, I still need to get a fuel pump I'm not decided yet on which one: And for the money shot, my collection of powerbands. I'm probably going to start out with the one second from the left and see how it pulls than upgrade if I don't like it. So thats it. I still need to rewind my stator and buy a 2into1 pipe. I just bought an RZ350 side cover becuase I'm going to use that oil injection gear to spin an oil pump to lubricate the turbo. The oiling system for the turbo is going to be the most difficult part of this project but I think I'll be able to handle it. Let me know what you think and if you got any questions. Here's some pics of my old 92' sold her a long time ago.

his paypal account has been disabled so someone shut him down.

I pm'ed you about it

anyone?

Let me know what you have and how much you want. I just need a 2 into 1 pipe. I don't need the silencer, just the expansion chamber. Thanks...

The 2-1 is used for turbos becuase you want the low end that the 2-1 provides to spool the turbo. The turbo takes care of your top end, you just need a pipe to get it spinning.

I'm turbocharging my Banshee and I need to get a 2into1 pipe. I wondered which companies actually make them and what people's opinion of them are. Since these pipes aren't too popular so its tough to find any info on them so I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

Wow thats awesome. I'll definitely buy an rz cover and give that a try. I think you may have just solved all my problems. Thanks alot.

Thats definitely a possibility. How much different is the Banshee oil cover from the rz one? Do you think its possible to run the rz oil pump gearing assembly on the Banshee moto? Sorry for all the questions I just never seen the rz motor up close and this oil pump situation is such a pain in the ass

Yeah I wasn't planning on running it for premix. I'm turbocharging my Banshee and I'm looking around for an oil pump. I was going to machine my flywheel so I could attach a pump onto there but thats a pain in the ass. I need a reliable pump that only needs to pump 30psi of pressure. And since I'm using the swingarm to double as an oil tank it can't be a gravity fed pump. I'm thinking that the oil injection might not put out enough pressure but thats what I'm trying to find out.

Well that sucks. The case isn't that big of a deal I just really need the vin numbers off of it so I'll just transfer the vins to my Banshee motor. (trying to make my bike street legal) Also I noticed that the RZ motor has an oil pump on it. Does anyone know if this pump is gravity fed? Would I be able to put it on my Bahsee motor and how much psi does it put out?

That definitely looks like a cracked ringland cause by detonation. The piece of piston that fell off did a number on the heads.

I was just wondering if the top engine case off a RZ350 would fit on my Banshee motor. I know the Banshee motor originated from the RZ350 but I just want to make sure the case fits before I spend any money.