Toybreaker

PM sent. emailed pics too! :biggrin:

370 long rod with boost ports with blaster pistons $350 shipped pm me if interested

35 mm pwk's with intakes, cable, and boots to go to a stock airbox. Pm me if you are still interested.

Got some Vforce 2's pm me an offer :biggrin:

I have a set of 35mm pwk's already setup to clear the clutch arm with cable, sleeves to hook up to the stock air box, and intakes. Pm me if you are interested.

370 long rod stock cyl set up. boost ports drilled with 35mm pwk's (k&n podded) and cpi in frames(small bore) it made 74hp on 100 octane race fuel still have the pistons too pm me for more info and pics.

PM'd Nyuk for some parts, worked out a price and payment method... 2 days after i PAypaled him the parts were there when i got home from work.... I'll definitely do business with him again! thanks Bro! :thumbsup:

i have a medium sized pile on MILSPEC semi hoopty that is better than normal hoopdie but not quite as good as the non hoopdie. think we can work something out? I might throw in a nice uncracked boost bottle and a set of stock tors carbs too!

What year bike is the harness from?

With just basic mods (pipe filter etc) I would say the LTR would be the best buy. Bolt on for bolt on seems like the fastest / best bike for the buck IMHO. I have 3 banshee's bolt on duner (just short of carbs and porting has been done to this one) Wifes bike (no suspension work or ignition on this one) and the drag bike (Hill / strip only bike) If i bought a new or even used 450 i would get the LTR The suzuki doesn't need shocks or a-arms just have to tune them for your riding style/comfort. get a pipe/filter, cherry bomb and drop the front sprocket 1 tooth and you are golden.

Before i decided to build a dedicated drag banshee i was going to take my Banshee engine and put it in a 1986 LT250 chassis i had lying around. Now I started out with 2 LT250's they were beat down and unreliable. Once i went through EVERYTHING and rebuilt or cleaned and lubricated it. They ran VERY reliably. they didn't win any races but i kept up with everyone while duning. they also handled better than anything made around the same time, including the honda 250R. Even the founder of Alba Action sports says his favorite bike was the suzuki he put a 250R engine in. Now DR Q has them stuffing RX'd 500's in the 250 chassis. those things are wicked fast all around bikes. I love my banshee and i have spanked a couple zilla's but when i swapped bikes the zilla won, but by less of a margin than when i was riding the Banshee.

I have a dyna FS. and with the exception of pipes/jetting it is the best mod i made to my duner. So Firehead where can we get the software and cable at?

http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm There is a step by step with photo's on putting in a bigger stator and floating the ground. it goes on with another thread on upgrading the lights

Go for it! Just be prepared to have to buy new cylinders if you fuck up. So far i have been lucky, 9 sets and all run better than when i started on them My 370 long rod drag port made 74hp on gas. Too much for just duning.. those cylinders are going on my 98 when it is done

Lots of different bits and LOTS AND LOTS of patience. the transfers suck to do(the top and middle portions). A 90 die grinder would make it a lot easier to get too but then i need to buy a 3/16 collet for the grinder or get a whole bunch more burrs and such. I have 2 die grinders but i like my foredom MUCH better. better speed control and it is lighter.

I am running toomey needles in both of my shee's and your mate should lean it out a LOT. I run FMF's in my shee with 280 jets and for a bolt on bike it is quick as hell Shee'll be right Fair dinkum good luck on your jetting journey!

5 axis right? could be 6 though. Been a long time since i played with any CNC's All i have is a foredom flexible shaft with variable speed pedal control and about 40 different burrs and mandrels for everything from sand paper to cutoff wheels. And polishing the exhaust port is completely worthless on a 2 stroke. Took forever to get my first set of cylinders like a mirror, Then i got my answer back from a reputable builder about it....

what about rotor hub, sprocket hubs from blaster and warrior? rear end parts from the tri-z? rear hubs from lt250r fit from 85-88 but the bolt pattern is different.

I know street bike clutches work r6? r1? blaster axle will fit the banshee carrier with some minor modifications the yfz front suspension can be made to work on the banshee. what about warrior parts? raptor? Tri-z? Untapped potential on the tri-z and warrior on fleabay. those parts are cheap.

PM sent :thumbsup:

look at my sig. seems compared to the norm I jet WAY LEAN. but my bike has 4 seasons on the current top end and 6 or 7 on my wifes. her bike was 320, 27.5, middle clip when i got it and was a pig. dropped in a 280 did a plug chop and was a tad rich. 270 another plug chop and it is tits now. plug chop was done at 270-320 elevation (the hill my house is on for the plug chop, elevation taken via GPS :thumbsup: ) every bike is different drop em on rich won't blow the engine but lean means BOOM

Go to the jetting forum and read up on how carbs work and jetting.

I am from port norris which sand plant is this?

Loosen all the bolts/nuts (don't remove the nuts) and see if that free's up the motion of the tight side. If so you overtightened that side. have the bike sitting under its own weight when you go to tighten everything back up. Apply some blue loctite to the threads and only tighten the nuts until it is snug.

Not sure if i am allowed to sell other websites on this one but check out www.ridingarizona.com and search street legal atv you should get about 7 pages of threads on that one. you could also look it up on the Motor vehicle departments website.