badassbanshee479

from what I have heard jeff is working on a web site right now and he will have it done real soon. you can pm him on here he is FASTOYS or his number is 785-364-5325 his work is awsome!! he built me a 4mill drag ported cheetah cub and he also dune ported a set of cylinders for a frined of mine and that thing is a blast to ride anywhere. pending on the time of year you send your stuff in determins how long it will take to get them back. as far as duncan last I heard is they are great with 250rs but not to good on banshees. and trinity got to big for there own good and I have heard that there work has gone down hill.

all the numbers refere to is the amount over stock bore the cylinders are. see when you blow up the top end and pieces of piston dig into the cylinder wall you have to get the scratchs out so the new piston rings can seal. so you take the cylinders to a reputable machine shop or four wheeler shop to have the cylinders bored. this is when they put a cutter in the cylinder and cut the walls till the scratchs are gone then they hone the cylinder to the final size for the new pistons. so how ever much they cut out is what size piston you need over stock. dont know if that makes any sence let me know if it dont and I will try and re word it for ya. oh and you can have the cylinders bored up to like 100 thousadths but I dont like to run them at anything over .080's

I'd say a reputable builder should be able to answer all the questions you just asked. I would stay away from the spacer plate, just one more place for an air leak, just buy the 795 pistons and the builder you choose should have domes that will fit the noss head. you wanna get them from the builder anyway cause each builder sets there domes up alittle different. I would say go with jeff at FAST for your porting and parts, great guy to deal with and usally has everything in stock. and yes to get the full potenchal out of the new crank you need to have the ports changed.

yeah you usally have a reputable builder grind on the ports in the cylinders to make more power and or change how the and when the power comes on line

The setup is a members on here, he goes by bigcrewduramax, dont post much but he is around now and then. he has jeffs (FAST Racing) aggresive dune port, 19cc domes with a noss machine head, +5 timing 35mm pwks on race gas, cpi small bore inframes, and v force 3's, with a 6 over arm, and 9 paddle paddle brats, we where puttin a good ass woopin on all the 4 strokes and a tyson 404 big bore kit with a 80 lb jockey over labor day weekend at the dunes. best part is it makes awsome power every where and brent trail rides the crap out of the bike. oh it also has a nology coil and wires. I am sure there are a bunchs of odds and ends I have forgot but I will have him post anything else majoir I may have forgotten porting was like 350.00 jeffs clutch and shift mods. jeff is on here as FASTOYS or you can call him at 785-364-5325 I would put this bike up against any none drag piped under carbed cub anyday.

jeffs shift mods work great!! had them till I went override, now there in my buddys play bike still workin great!!!

where do you do most of your riding?? why do you want to build a cub?? that dyno run of daves was stock carbs t-5's 68mm bore and a 4mill stroker. Just to let ya know jeffs aggresive dune port with cpis and 35mm carbs is making right around 75-80hp and it will cost you about half as much as it would to build a 4mill cub. I have personly rode my buddys dune port bike and that thing rips!!! its reliable holds its own on the drag strip and its just plain fun to ride. what you are trying to do is take a top fuel dragster and detune it so you can drive it on the street. just remeber its still a dragster in the end. one more thing, ask dave what he has on that cub now. shearers and 35mm pwks. and now he is going to lock up, alky and an over ride. he figured out that its not much fun trying to detune a cub. I am sure he will get on here and tell ya the same thing.

give me an address I have about 50 of then laying around, I will mail ya some if ya want.

one in the front equals 3 in the back just to let ya know. I would drop 2 off the rear. I dont think you would notice 1 enough to justify it. make sure you are not trying to put a new sprocket on a wore out chain. it will eat the new sprocket in no time.

timing plate makes it so you can advance the timeing by moving the stator, gives you more hp and more low end, cool head makes the bike run cooler and makes it so you can run changeable domes 22cc is just like stock and you can go all the way to 15cc I think, just remeber the lower the cc number, the higher the compression. the higher the compression the higher the octane rating of the fuel you need. (race gas) I used to run 19cc on my play bike with 50/50 race gas pump gas mix. oh and the higher the compression the more low end the bike will have. reeds inprove throttle response and increase hp. buy vforce 2's or 3's for the most gains. pipes make more power pending on the pipes. t'5s are the best over all pipes (I think anyway) good all around power and they like porting if and when you go that rought. shearers and cpis are drag pipes all mid to top end with very little bottom. fmf and pro circuit are low to mid range pipes. k&ns have been found to flow the most air and make the most power, but you have to be careful riding in wet and muddy condisions if you get the clamp ons or you could get a pro flow kit and modify your stock air box to work with a single k&n filter inside the air box. welding and trueing the crank is good insurance at any time cause the stock cranks are just pressed together and when you start adding power they are known to come apart causing the engine to go boom!! porting is the next step after you do all the above. it is when a builder grinds the ports on your cylinders to make more power. there are many differnt porting options out there, you have a woods port which gives you more low to mid power, dune port gives you more mod to topend and drag port gives you the most hp but only has top end power ment only for drag racing. hope this helps. if you have anymore questions dont be affraid to ask, thats how I learned.

bought slip on sparkys for my shearers, throw the bike in the back of my truck with the sparkys on, then when I get in there I pull them off and throw them under the seat and ride all day. you could put them on and ride in then take them off also.

start callin builders and tell them what you are looking to get out of your bike, choose the one you feel the most comfortable with. oh and I tryed to call all kinds of builders in MI but no one would answer the phone or return messages, so I called jeff over at FAST, one hell of a guy and worth every penny. customer service is second to none. just my two cents

timing plate, cool head, reeds, pipes, k&n clamp ons, rejet. makes for one fun ride. then when ya get tired of that port it weld and true the crank and hold on to your a$$

tires are sls 22-11-8 11 paddle extreams. hook hard as hell though

count me in!!

I have a noss machine head with 19cc domes, what kinda banshee parts ya got layin around??

I am running all the weights with stock springs on my alky bike, works great!! I would do the same on yours, if the clutch comes in to hard then start changing the weight of the arms.

I can bring my little jockey if you want to see your bike really run some times!! my little brother is nuts, I have seen both sides of my bike going down the track and he just pushes harder and keeps on shifting!! when you plan on leaving for clarksville tomarrow??

FAST racing should have everything in stock. I think its about 300-350 with the modded cover. lock ups are not usally needed untill you hit about 80-85 hp and up. jeff will just send ya a new cover, I am not sure if you have to exchange your old one or not though. pm for all the details. he is FASTOYS on here if you did not know that all ready. or you can call him at 785-364-5325

only thing I changes was, when I went to a lock up I put the stock springs back in, other than that its all the same stuff!!

msd requires you to run a battery pack, kinda a pain if you are out riding some where and the battery pack goes dead. they do make a kit to charge it off of your stator but you have to be above so many rpms, I had one, never used it. ended up re selling it. I think you would have better luck with the dana.

been running jeffs clutch for the past three years, everything from a bolt on play bike all the way up to an alky drag bike!! they are the $hit!!!

if you are gonna run a 4mill crank, you should run the 115 rod cause it puts less side load on the piston with the corrected rod angle. also do it right and have a set of domes cut for the added stroke. stacking gaskets and or spacer plates are just one more place for air leaks!! there are some builders out there that can cut your stock head for the stroker also.

I paid 2.65 a gallon over labor day when I was up at the dunes. its great for drag racing but I dont think I would run it in a play bike. you run out of alky during a full speed pass and you may have a set of pistons that look like the ones on the page before this one!! yeah that was a 4.3 with lock up and over ride. you would not know your clutch is sliping till you put a lock up in it. I could not believe it!!

I am kinda scared to see your bike on alky cause you are only 2 tenths slower than my alky bike is and you are still on gas!!! although I have not been back since I figured out how to tune alky and all that crap!! cant wait to ride though, with all the crap I have gone through all I want is one weekend were I can hang out and ride and not spend the weekend in the trailer wrenchin!! which I am sure you know all about dave. you gonna try and make the oklahoma trip ??