dajogejr

Yeah....they drilled them.... Sorry Butch, had to... All the guys round here run 150s to 160s...and I run Lectrons, I'd have given you the stash I had a couple years ago...

Search button...it's been covered. I think the reason some people (including myself) get a little wound is because we're on the forums a lot, and see the same questions asked and answered a lot. It just feels kinda redundant.... Aside from being asked before, this is one of those questions where 100 people will answer, 100 different answers, and that doesn't really help you any. I use Crisco...smells like bacon when I'm passing them by.... Mazola is up next.

I think the fact that the dump tubes are drilled is causing your issue, no? I know, that didn't answer your question, sorry. 3 places I would try. Sudco.com jetsrus.com and carbparts.com Some one there should be able to figure it out for ya...

2 quarts of fluid, should be about 1/3 of the way up the window while sitting. 100% normal. Normally they hold roughly 1.75 quarts. The added capacity of the lockup cover...add the rest of the 2nd quart. 100% normal....

Port that baby when funds are available and you're ready for it...70HP all day long, reliable...and fun to ride.

That is one killer looking YFZ. But no, the lockups are not interchangeable...

I have an idea... Send the cylinders to FAST, have him write you a receipt for "Special Edition Flowers", **cough cough porting** and she'll just have to be happy you spent a few hundo on special flowers for her.... Nice dyno run....

That is a damn good idea...!

Can you get us a picture of the carbs please, so we know if they're stock or 28mm? Bad/faulty ignition components will have you chasing your tail all day long. 120PSI from a reliable gauge is only a few PSI less than stock...what brand compression tester is it? Unless you have a shaved head or smaller domes in the bike, I'd look elsewhere. If you had a crank seal go bad on the tranny/PTO side, you'd be fouling a plug and it would run even worse on top. Remove the reed spacers. A compression test will not reveal bad crank seals, but a leak down test will.

In my experience, even with brand new innards and everything properly adjusted, once you get in the 80 to 90 HP range...they shift like crap. With our without a lockup. Now, is that the case with all bikes? No. Lighter riders? No. Trail riders not hooking up as much as a slick tired street bike or paddled tired dune bike? No. With the motor revving to the moon and the clutch not disengaging all the way (hence the motor coming back to near idle) it's only gonna make it shift even worse. I'm a big guy, and I ride in sand. Sounds like this guys is in a similar boat. As long as his tranny components are in good shape (it sounds like his clutch is new and/or in good working order) it's my opinion he's at the limit of what a stock tranny can do with this setup in his enviornment. I've tried shift pro kits, rounded shift stars, trannys with every other dog cut...they all help it shift "better" but not like it should. And... I have pretty good pricing on overrides...

With that kind of weight, power and load on the motor...I think you might be facing the nature of the beast. Dunable override in your future?

I'd call Jeff or Kevin (FAST and HJR). A nice thing about them is they're gonna tell you things you NEED that you don't think about. For example...plugs and stud extenders. You need them both to run a cub. Someone just selling you a cylinder and crank might not tell you. They will make sure you have the right head or domes for the motor, because a 68 bore cub with Wiseco pistons (573m6800) have a different dome angle than a stock banshee piston, so you'll need your head cut accordingly, or purchase the correct domes. It's the little stuff like that you may take for granted, but they don't.... Lastly, make sure whomever you buy the stuff from REWELDS the 4 mil crank if it's a hot rod crank. They come welded from the factory, but they're not welded very good. I'm sure Jeff and Kevin would tell you they've seen the factory welds fail...and that is NEVER pretty.

Some people have luck with a lockout and being able to shit without an override, some don't. What kind of motor do you have that you need a lockout and not just a quality clutch and some HD springs? Most of the time, in the Banshee World, a lockout is coupled with an override tranny, no clutch needed to shift. Is the basket, inner hub and pressure plate in good working order, and do you have enough slack in the clutch cable? Is the shifter adjusted properly?

At the very least, you're out a gasket, coolant and trans oil. If it's something you cant see by plain sight, the first thing I'd do is remove the clutch, remove the basket and check to see if the cushions are shot. You should be able to grab the gear on back of the basket and try to twist the gear/basket, it shouldn't move by hand. If it does...you need a new basket. The stock gear can come off the basket by drilling the rivets out...but it's not gonna go back on. It's possible once you take off the pressure plate, you might find a broken fiber as well, it happens... Check the wear on ALL the clutch components. Inner and outer are 50 bucks, if they're worn, replace them. A billet basket go from 140ish to 200. Any billet basket works. The magnum basket I got from FAST is going on it's 4th season of hard abuse and looking good still... Good luck.

You need them. I've tried in the past to fill them with RTV in a pinch...but you really need the plugs. As said, the gasket won't hold the coolant pressure that the rubber plugs will.

You can buy another wireless AP, and use it as a repeater. However, you'll have to know a few things about the original router/AP to set it up as a repeater. Brandon, I know it's EXPENSIVE....but maybe you can cost it out/expense it, etc. Verizon, ATT, etc., all offer wireless air cards. They are not as fast/reliable as a wired or WiFi connection, but they do work pretty well. Downside is they're about 50 to 60 a month....so, your call.

I disagree with the ad that it makes more power from down low all the way to the top (it doesn't, and kills a few thousand RPMs as well) but for woods riding, they are a great pipe. They sound weird fo sho... They can't be that bad, Dan @ A&S uses them on his race bikes (they're hooked up to a turbo, however...lol) You should hear the pipe with a turbo whistling through it....

Depends on where you live....IMO. Here in MI, it's the DNR just itching to clamp down on ya. I mean, WTF is spark arrestors in the dunes gonna prevent?? LOL On the more "green" states like CA, I'd tend to agree with you...

Ha ha ha... I guess you have to be from MI to appreciate that. I agree, with a healthy motor you should be able to run WOT for a long time. Jetting, timing, all that comes into play. You need to make sure you can keep fuel in the bowls as well, one thing often overlooked is the screen for the fuel valve (plugged) and the vent tube for the gas cap. Either of those plugged won't be a huge deal putzing through trails, but....WOT for extended periods of time, it will cause issues.

Minkia38 probably has 20 of each of those. Hit him up.

That's because you got Retard Strength going for you...and you're so cool. Here's a thought....don't do illegal shit. Period. If you do, fine...don't cry about it when you get caught, your ass busted, fined and locked up. Reap what you sow.... Stupid MF'ers like this are EXACTLY the reason why we have less and less riding areas every year.

Don't use Yamabond. use a thin coat of RTV on both sides of both gaskets... That's all I use.

Unless they have some kind of raised rubber sealing lip on the gaskets, I agree, flip it over.

sounds like a bad oring or a pinched one. Pressure test the cap while you're at it, just for shits and giggles.

If you run out of options, you can ship me the gear racks for inspection, and we can cut you a drum.