dajogejr

I would like to see a Matco, Craftsman or snap on gauge used...to be honest. Squish is measured by smashing a piece of solder between the top of the piston and the dome/head. You measure it parrallel to the wrist pin (left and right side of the cylinder) and use a mic to measure how thick that is.

I agree on higher HP motors or those that need to change ratio. IMO, too many times people buy them because they "think" they need them, when in case they really don't. I do like the Hinson baskets with straight cuts and spring loaded gears...I just can't justify that price either for my little motor.

Damn... I saw the post topic an expected to see pictures of my ex-girlfriend in here...that little slut. (Or Firehead) :biggrin:

It's on Fleabay now...would rather see it go to a fellow board member.

I would like to see Brown Faber III. IF Faber didn't F up his hand, I think this could've been a different fight. I don't know if he has enough to beat Brown, but clearly he couldn't strike with him or get very good submission attempts with a busted hand. It would've been nice if he acknowledged Brown as a good fighter and champion in the end, instead of focusing on his hand...which, looked like it got ran over by a truck. Regardless....I don't know what some of those judges were watching. I had Brown winning 4 rounds for sure...and the first round possibly going to Faber. I think the fight before, the split decision was BS. The guy that lost should've won that fight. He lost the first round no doubt, but he kept at it and won the last two IMO. Lot of first round submissions....cool to watch! Overall, a good card. I'd like to see Faber-Brown III. Pulver needs to hang it up...train and mentor the younger guys. In his day, he was the bomb, but I'd hate to see him get hurt, he's clearly past his prime. With his experience and knowledge...he could tutor the younger guys and make a big difference in the sport!

5-0...one more to go.... Go Wings!!

How does the machine pull after that? Has it been leak down tested? All the ignition components checked out? A properly setup 4 mil cub should pull that gear with a 135 lb rider...go to a 42 tooth rear. If that doesn't fix it...you need to look elsewhere. I don't know if CEL are a good needle for PJs, I did use them in my 421 and it ran great with 35PWKs.

Not to mention the original plane didn't have red stripes down the fuselage... Perry Mason....LOL.

That's actually a very good price... For someone thinking of this at or near sea level, probably want to change out the domes to something in the 19 to 21cc range, 17's are a bit much for those at lower elevations.

Waste of money on a smaller motor and/or a dirt/sand ridden bike. If you were trying to alter the ratio for a long run, say 1/8 or 1/4 mile I'd say do it. You will not feel anything by bolting them on alone. For that kind of money, get it ported...you'll feel that.

Hope they had Geico... What a bunch of dumb asses. Better on the ground than in the air...

Complete boss nos nitrous kit. Bottle has a little juice left in it. The ONLY thing I can see is one of the brackets that mounts the bottle to the frame/etc. is broken, can easily make a new bracket or fix this one. Comes as you see, complete with lines, bottle, fuel pump, switch, etc. 500 shipped including paypal, local MI pickup 450.

HOLY SHIT you're still alive...

Oh boy...I know I'm gonna get shelled for saying this...but... You've got a 1 into 2 intake system and in your sig it says 2 into 1 Dynoport exhaust coming soon. Are you sure you want to keep on choking this motor up instead of just going the way of the 450? Not trying to be a dick, and yes I know this is a banshee site...I'm just saying...that's all.

Did you rejet, was it needed? By those mods alone, I wouldn't expect the change to be earth shattering.... Porting is where the power is.

I'd buy the under cover slingshot from HJR (Herr Jugs Racing) It is cheaper...the cover modified is that costs you. I already had the cover, so I got a normal slingshot in mine. No problems... 150 PSI at sea level with 18cc domes doesn't sound right. I understand with aggressive/drag porting, your cranking PSI can drop, but with that being said...you're still 20 to 30 PSI from where I'd expect. What did the motor squish out at? How old are the pistons/rings? Even with a drag port, I'd expect to see 170ish or so cranking PSI at sea level on a stock 350 motor.

You forgot to type in all caps loco, that makes your point more genuine.

I have a TZ and factory helical gears Brandon, hundreds of passes on my 10 mil and no issues whatsoever. I ride sand, only sand or loose dirt type tracks as well. That's why when I see people tell me how much I need straight cut gears I just kinda laugh...

That is awesome. I was thinking of buying a crosby jersey today, covering up the osby and getting ybaby stitched on with a big ol red circle through the Penguin.... All they did is delay the inevitable... Stanley is staying in Hockey Town!!!

Full power is wide open throttle.

No problem. I'm having a lazy day at work...I got the time... An override is a transmission (drums, star and gears) that have been cut in a manner that allow for full power up shifts without pulling in the clutch. Here's an easy way to tell. See if it has 5 gears or 6. If it has 6 gears, it is not an override (6 gear overrides are available, but they are rare...VERY pricey and yours would've blown up by now if it had one) If it stops at 5, you have an override. The gears and drum are cut in such a way that the sacrifice is you shouldn't let the engine slow the bike down, rather pull the clutch and use the brakes. A standard override does not like to be down shifted while being ridden, and shouldn't be backloaded. It will eventually bend shift forks. A dunable override is very similar, but it has springs on the shift fork shafts to help keep the shift forks in a neutral position when not shifting the bike gear to gear. The dunaable can be backloaded, but it's not a good idea to do this excessively above 8K RPM. A dunable will not bend shift forks, but it will wear them out quicker. Neither trans should be downshifted without the clutch being pulled in. The dunable is still an override, it's just more forgiving than a standard cut tranny.

Yes, but he bought them brand new, he's gonna take a hit on them.

I'd rather run rear only. More weight saving, and better traction slowing down than a few small, smooth tires up front. And... YOU mention running methanol in another post. Good luck getting a methanol bike to stop if it takes off on you with no rear brakes. (sometimes a methanol bike can lean out on you in the pits or after a run, the RPMs skyrocket and the only way to kill the motor is to STAND on the rear brake, upshift as quick as you can and hold the throttle wide open and dump the clutch.) Any good track you run should give you room to shut down...between the shut down and paddle tires, it should drag down. If you were going to run pavement, then I'd say leave the fronts on. Some asphalt tracks actually require front brakes. If your rears dont' work great, replace/adjust components till they do. My rear brakes slow down my bike no problem after a near 80 MPH run in 300 feet with my 250 lb ass on the bike.

I would ask whomever you're gonna have port it. I had Kevin Herr @ HJR port my cub, 10 mil, and he actually said to run small bores on mine as well. BUT...I already had nice, Chrome, out of frame big bore shearers, and it likes them. I'd like to try a new set of Shearer small bores. I have other things to buy before I shell out several hundred for pipes however!

Call up Dave Noss, or PM dlnoss. He is NOSS Machine. He will work with you on whatever spec dome you want and cut a set. I know he offers a slight discount on his cool head and domes to HQ members. I do not know if he offers a discount on domes only. He may have other advice as well. In my motors, I like to keep alky cranking compression around 160 to 180 PSI...just my personal preference.