dajogejr

About 6 years ago, my buddy and I went to Milan Dragway in Michigan... I forgot his mods...wasn't much. But, it was hitting 74MPH with the fenders...and like 77.4 without them. 1/4 mile is PLENTY of time to hit top end on a shee. I don't remember the times...but I want to say somewhere in the 13's. If you trail ride (read...mud) I'd trim them up a bit. If you don't...then cut 'em. MX's strarted this so they could see their front tires, and the obstacles coming up on them. My buddy that owned my shee before me cut 'em to show off the Toomey's he never bought...so, I had to... I think they just look better...the stock front fenders are fugly....

I"m looking at a stroker motor soon, and that is very good info. Thanks as well....

You're right...I read that wrong. I meant stroker....

A longer rod provides more leverage on the crank....which, makes more power. The normal is a 4 mil stroker crank and Wiseco 927 or 947 (forgot which) pistons. They are offset for the longer rod. You'd also have to have your head remachined to match...I think they call it the squish angle. Has to do with the cut/size/shape of the dome in your head. Think of it this way....ever try to loosen a nut with a small ratchet? Tough...huh? ever put a foot long pipe on that ratchet? Much easier to break loose, if you don't break it off. Similar in a stroker crank. Normally..it'll up the displacement a little...but, with more leverage from the pistons to the crank, you'll make more power....

Yep...You can only reef on a long bar for so long trying to keep the wheels from creeping up your leg...before you bust out the air for literally 2 seconds. Sure is nice... Do yourself a favor...have 'em zap it back on, too...

When it did run...how'd it go? Change the plugs...I think 270 is too rich for 5200 ft. of elevation. I'm thinking about a 240 or 250.... I think your pilots are fine...if it idles correctly. Almost sounds like electrical. Close the plug gap to .020. See if it helps in the upper ranges. if it does...you definately have a CDI starting to go bad...or possibly a coil. I know it was a fresh rebuild, but...do a compression check anyways. You'll end up with around 100 to 110 PSI or so....at that elevation and a stock head.

Said it is all stock...but...rebuilt? list complete mods, please. Possible you got dirt in your carb... What is your current jetting, temperature and elevation?

Have you jetted the carbs correctly for the pipes?

Throw it in the back of your truck...take it to a local tire repair store. It literally takes 2 seconds with a gun. Change it in the parking lot...set the air gap, then have them zap it back on. Give the mechanic a 5 or a 10 spot for a 6'er of beer...they'll more than be happy to oblige. You'll spend less time doing that than the hard way, not to mention...you won't risk damaging it.... Good luck!

Why waste our time if you're not going to post that in English? Sorry bout your luck...dude. Hope you're ok!

Scotch Brite pad, non-metal variety....and some good old soap and water...

Most new 4 strokes have accelerator pumps in the carbs. That's exactly why you DON'T push the throttle while the bike is not running... Pushing the throttle feeds fuel whether it's running or now... I've seen pics of flooded 4 strokes break the kickstart assembly right off because there was TOO much compression from being so flooded.... That is more than likely why they don't bog off idle up in the air as much...they're not relying on gravity as much as your shee carbs.... Just buy EFI...that should solve it...

Plug looks good. Put the clip back in the middle slot on the needle. Your air screws don't do anything after 1/4 throttle. 1.5 out seems about right. You needle controls about 1/4 to roughly 3/4...with the main coming in right before 3/4. So...I'd say you're darned close on your main. Play with the needle clip a bit. Yep, pipes are the single best thing you can do to a shee from stock. Next is porting..that really wakes her up!!

Just do a search on pipes. You'll get TOnz and Tonz of threads already on this... Everyone has their own opinions....you ride in different terrrains alltogether.. You are going to have to decide if you want a tourquier pipe, like an FMF Gnarly or PC...or a higher reving pipe like a T5 or SST. Of course...there are a lot other out there. I love my T5s... Since you're looking to bolt on...get your flywheel lightened and get an adjustable timing plate from Ricky Stator. The two of those are less than 100 bucks, and are very simple to put on. Just be sure to get the correct flywheel puller....do NOT use a jaw type.

I'm 240 (245 before me morning shit...) and besides pipes, a ricky stator plate @ 4+ and a boonman lightened flywheel changed my quad, big time. as far as bolt on stuff. You will not be dissapointed...for sure.

Check your plug to see if it's running lean. And...yes, if it's lean, it's running hot. What pilot did you put in, and what about the air screws. Put your needle back to stock, middle clip, too...

Yep...it's just too bad. I like riding my buds 450s around the trails, they are awesome wheelie machines...but, they just don't FEEL fast like a banshee does. They are, don't get me wrong...they just don't feel it. I doubt a stock Craptor will beat a stock shee...they're pigs to begin with. Probably be a good race. They are comfy to ride, though....

The XL will fit me...send it my way... I'll be sure to wear it as I'm spanking my 4 stroke slow friends ....

As long as it's recently been changed, and not severly overfilled, no... The motor runs like a top through 4th, and clutch engagement/action is fine too, up until fourth. I would point towards a gearing problem....but, as you said...12 in the front. Hell, a 100% bone stock shee will scream with this gearing, and pull it all the way to the top. Something in the tranny...I think...

Thanks much, boys. Around the 40 buck mark per cylinder is what I was expecting to pay. I'm just going to order the top end kit from Magic, then take 'em the pistons to match 'em. I'll call both and see how busy they are...

Hmm...at a 12 front, it should SCREAM....through all gears. If anything, if it were running correct...you'd stop pulling around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle in 6th...because the enging has more RPMs...but the gearing simply can't pull it.... Did you change the oil... Is this possibly a tranny problem?

Yeah...but he didn't port your motor. Our contract states that your have not fufilled your end, therefore all proceeds are negated and turned over to me... I can't wait to have him dive into my motor...If I didn't just put the down payment on my first house...he'd have my motor on his bench right now.... At least I have my very own garage...all mine all mine...to work on her....

Yeah...I didn't read the whole thread again. What is your gearing and tire size?

I've always run straight 80W Bel Ray Gear Saver oil in all my two stroke trannies. From CR dirt bikes to banshees. Never had a problem shifting or with the clutch... I'd drain it...and fill it fresh. Be sure not to overfill it. If you buy two quart bottles, you should have roughly an inch or so of fluid left in the second quarts. It takes just a hair under two quarts.