dajogejr

Either you have the most unique banshee ever made....or, it's because it's your first quad. Look at the pinned article on top of this page for how to do a plug chop. If you follow that to a T, with those main jets and the plug is just as it should be, then I'll be a believer.... There is just no way a stock piped banshee will need mains higher than a 300 at most....unless you were riding in freezing temps below sea level...and even then I think it'll be rich. You sure those are 340 and not 240?

Possibly... Does it fade in and out? It might be starting to go.... Get a shift star mod, it'll help with shifting, especially finding nuetral while running and stopped. Take the side off...remove, look at and measure the plates. While you're at it...look at the pressure plate and hub. Shouldn't be notched ...nice and smooth. When you get it apart, give Jeff a call @ FAST Racing. He sells a great streetbike kit clutch for the banshee that gets great reviews here...I love mine. He can walk you through what to look for. He also stocks the pressure plate and hub, which...once I have him port my motor I'm definately going to get as well... Jeff Wendorff FAST Racing 785-365-5325 Besides good pricing and good parts, he's a helluva nice guy to deal with and will talk your ear off trying to help you out and offer advice. When I get a few more coin...I'm going to get my motor done up by him. Jeff is making me pay for it...since he doesn't work for free and won't "Donate" a FAST motor to me... I've begged, groveled...pleaded...he won't budge... Just kiddin Jeff....can't wait to get a few more bills to send my stuff to you.

Granted I'm at about 600 ft. elevation less than him...with NO airbox and K&N Pod Filters I was only at 260 with stock pipes.... He only has a lid and filter... Just my .02.

Be sure on your elevation, first off. 340 is WAY too rich for a stock piped banshee with an airbox. No F'in way.... Unless you live below sea level and ride in -50 degree temps, and 340 would still be rich. With stock pipes, an airbox still on, aftermarket lid and filter...at your elevation and temps, I'd say 220 to 250 Main...at the most. Stock pilot at 25 is fine. Air screws about 1.0 to 2.0 turns out from the lightly seated position, and needle in the middle clip. The only way that motor is going to run fine with 340s is if it is beyond worn out and has an air leak the size of Texas somewhere.... 35 pilots are WAY too rich for pilots too.... Something else is wrong. With my mods in my sig, (not much...but more than yours) I'm at 330 Main and 27.5 pilot, needles 4 clip down (Dyno Jet Needles with 6 grooves) and 2.25 out on the air screws. There is just no way that bike is running correctly with that pilot and main set in there. YOu could darned near run alcohol with those jets on a stock bike...(Ok...well...maybe not... Something is wrong...and being this is your first quad, let alone first banshee...you need to get it to a shop and have them go over it to make sure you don't hurt yourself or the motor....

Yeah...bikes/ATVs are not like cars...you really do need that vaccuum to do it easily.. Once in place...as said, leave the master cylinder top off, fill it...and open the bleeder screws. Let the bike "Gravity" bleed to start. Then, bleed 'em as said. Finally...tap the master cylider gently a few times...this will let any small air bubble rise to the top towards the bleeder. Patience...and use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container only.

Broke one on my 85 quad racer, mid air...locked up. Luckily I was in sand or it might've hurt. Ripped the "Sprocket gaurd" right off. left me with a 1/2 hole where one of the bolts used to mount. New cases? Nope...a little sheet metal and JB weld and I was on my way again... Ahh...to be young stupid again...

True enough...Loco. However, I think you'll agree..it's an overall factor. The less a chain streches, the less you have to adjust it. Also...the less it stretches, the longer your sprockets will wear...too! Unless I owned one pretty ass dune or race machine, I'll always run steel sprockets. They weigh a little more...but...they last for a long ass time....that's for sure! That being said, I ended up with an X Ring DID chain that I'm very happy with. I haven't had to adjust it in the last few rides at all, just keepin her clean and lubed...

I'd even go as far as stripping some thicker speaker wire, taking a strand and gently running it through the smaller holes in the carb and smaller jets..... Hell...if you're gonna do it...do it right!!

www.sidewindersprockets.com Pricey...but they should have what you need, too... Last I checked, their chains had the highest tensile strength on the market..,..

I'd just buy new Orings for the pipes, thin...and I mean thin coat of hi temp RTV on the Oring itself. Make sure your springs holding the pipe on are in good condition... Should be fine....Might want to scotch brite the outside of the exhaust header coming off your cylinder...to make sure and get a good seal. Is it possible you're running too much oil in your premix...or your jetting is too rich? Just a thought...

Yeah...packing is packing...for the most part. I'm due on mine, too....

Before I changed clip position, air screw or pilot...I'd take both carbs completely apart, clean the bejezus out of 'em...then freshly sync 'em back up. Might be a good time to make sure there is no gunk in the bottom of your tank, too. If it still hesitates...then...I'd start with the needle....it really depends on where the bog is...on the lower end of RPMs...probably just turn the air screw out 1/2 turn or so. (Less than 4K RPM) If more in the mid...4K to say about 6K or so....then, Needle clip. Good luck!

How hard did you look? Scroll down just past halfway.... 19.99 for both silencers... http://www.toomey.com/html/pipe_parts1.htm

Get the T5's... Then, get your flywheel lightened and buy a timing advance plate for it, set it at +4 and be happy. I loved my T5s...but...with the last two mods listed, they came alive! Easier to get on the pipe...and T5's have enough top end (Not as much as the rockets) to keep revving out.... You won't be dissapointed...

Well..it's a bit of a trade off. Since you're going to rev faster...you have just as much top end as before...but, you're getting there sooner.... Well worth it. Not less top end, just getting there faster...

Yep...PM him. He gave me a deal because I got my shiftstar done. But...you two can agree on a price. It won't hurt...don't worry...

PM Boonman..he's a helluva guy, cheap and quick with shipping. While you're at it...get a timing plate from RickyStator and set it around +4 degrees. These are simple mods that are all but a must. It won't give you any more horsies...(the flywheel) but it will get on your pipe sooner and easier... Butter is the word I'd use too...RN.

Do yourself a favor, remove the TORS and get a parking brake block off... those two items are under $100 bucks...and will save you loads of grief for the few hours it'll take to put 'em on...

After you install the kit. Once you remove the TORS, it'll be like new again...

The carbs don't need to be "rebuilt". If it was running fine, you probably wasted your money on a jet kit. You could've spent a couple bucks at the local stealership for the jets you need. Get the kit installed. Get the carbs synced up. Then...worry about your jetting. Remember...each time you take the carbs off or jet them, check the sync to be safe. I changed my jetting about 1/2 dozen times ( I kept buying more stuff) and after the second or third time, the slides fell out of sync. Only takes an 8 and 10mm wrench to get 'em back again. Just take your time...and READ the instructions that come with your kit... When you're drilling out the hole in the carb...get a 200 girt sandpaper or so. Completey dissasemble them, removing everything off of them. Put a piece of wood down the throats so you don't score the opposite side of the carb once you're through the plug. Wash 'em both up good with soap and water, and blow it dry with compressed air, blow alot of air through all the holes to make sure they're clean and free of any dirt from before and any possible metal shavings that may have fallen in. It's easy and well worth it. Just be patient and read the instructions.... Best of Luck...

Check your cables. Start it up...and turn your handlebars from lock to lock...(side to side as far as they go.) See if shee revs up. If not...the throttle cable routing should be ok. Next...with it running, spray some carb cleaner or something similar around the boots, around the intakes, etc. If it revs up, you have an air leak. Really...you need to get the TORS removal kit. It will eliminate most if not all of the problems you are having right now...TORS are junk!!

At this point...did you get a clymers manual. If you can't get it by now...you might want to head to a stealership. Either the slides are in wrong, the cable is getting caught...or you have an air leak. Those are the common problems for it revving up like that...

I'd like to tell you I didn't drag as much as I do...but, seems to be all we do... I can tell you it made a bigger difference in helping with trails than drag. helping it get on the pipe sooner is nice for tighter trails...but, it didn't hurt any in drags, either....

Could be...but, I know he does have a few of them laying around...so, he could've just sent you one he had once he received yours. He went above and beyond that for me. Just a great, great experience, period.

I agree...but, you can get it done for about half that. PM Boonman. He did my Flywheel and shiftstar. He's an all around great guy, Mod here at the forum, and short of flying here from NY and putting it on for me, I don't know if he could've offered me any MORE help! You won't be dissapointed.