dajogejr

Do you ride tight trails? No...keep it stock width? If you ride fast open trails, dunes, etc....then widen her up. Do a search on front rim swap...you can gain 3 to 4 inches of width up front without spending more than 20 bucks... Pair that with a +4 rear axle and it sure is nice in the turns.

You're supposed to leave the head bolts loose on 125HP 250R's. Don't you know...LEAN IS MEAN...that's where the extra ponies kick in...like nature's own turbo charger...sucking all that air in. Did the 250R have a trailer hitch, gun rack and a six pack holder? Haa....that must've been a site. Seriously...a few years back...my buddy and his stock 96 took it to the drag strip, 1/4 mile is PLENTY to top out a stock shee...hell...1/8 mile is. Anywho....stock gearing...stock EVERYTHING...74 something MPH. Took off the front fenders, 77 something MPH. Just my two cents...and it was at Milan Dragway, NHRA track...so, it's not like it was "Uncle Bob's Drag Race and Grocery Store --Mart"....

Yep...completely understand. I opted for 4 mil and a NOSS head, and will be getting 35PWKs soon...I know that 's the biggest hold up for my motor now. That DAMN Jeff...he just kept going over and over what I was going to need. Seriously, I forgot about 3 or 4 items he thought of as we were talking on the phone, so...anyone can sell you a motor, takes a good man to sell it correctly...

Or...we could read your sig... I'm surprised you didn't go with the big bore domes and stroker crank....especially since you're getting out of frame drag pipes... I'm like a little kid at Christmas right now...my 4 mil, 68mm cubs will be here tomorrow, along with a NOSS head and a bunch of other goodies from Jeffery... I just hope I can remember how to put it all back together..luckily, I have my Clymers!

D'oh...found it. I guess I should take my own advice...used the "Search...". Yeah, I'll take it. You've got PM in a second.

You got a linkie? I just looked on the first 3 pages of for sale...and your listing didn't catch my eye... If it's in good shape, consider it sold. 70 shipped to 48082?

Use the search here.... There are plenty of reputable engine builders on these forums, and there's a good chance of one in your state. I'm buying my motor from Jeff @ FAST Racing in Holton, KS...so, of course i'm going to plug his work and shop. Great guy...great service...and if you allow him to talk your ear off, he promptly will... However...his shop is very, very busy right now...and there might be a delay. Only way to find out is to PM him on these boards (FASTOYS) or call him... 785-364-5325 Of course, there are plenty of good builders on this site, as well....use the search!

I'd take apart the throttle assembly, make sure the bar is clean and free of goo, and lube a bit, and...the cable as well...

Bob seems like a real nice guy. I sold and shipped him the cylinders and crank out of my shee today...both 100% stock. My 4 mil cub will be in my hands tomorrow... His handle on these forums is Machwon. There are some pretty good builders here in MI, I'll be interested to see how his work turns out!!

Anyone have a larger Clarke or IMS tank laying around? Saw one on Fleabay. Looking to ride a few wide open loops this year, and with Race Gas only motor...a larger gas tank would be nice!! Thanks...

Boonman is a great guy. Ask him about the shift star mod while you're at it. He has flywheels already machined for 125, ready to ship. Or, you can send him yours for 65 and he'll do it. He even eats the return shipping back to HQ members...and has a helluva quick turn around time. He can also mill or shave your stock head, too. to the BoonTune.

You mean trail and dunes? Jeff at Fast told me to run 14/41 (Stock) for the dunes...and I'm building a 4 mil cub...

Free bump... Bought my paddles/mohawks from Andrew...they were darned near brand new. Good luck...Andy. If you don't sell and part it out...let me know...

Stock head for sale. Threads and domes are perfect. Came off strong running bike. NOSS on the way...no need for this one anymore. Just needs the gasket surface cleaned, ran out of scotch brite pads for my die grinder. 40 bucks shipped in US. Will Fed Ex with tracking number upon payment confirmation. Certified Check/money order, but perfer paypal.

Well...after 10 years of use...those babies are in there pretty darned good. I'm just going to pick up new ones...I kinda thought you'd have to reuse the old... Hopefully, I can have Jeff send me new head studs, too...my order goes out tomorrow... Thanks! DJ

Dumb question all...but, I'm mailing my cylinders and crank out to a fellow HQer tomorrow. Getting a Cub from Jeff @ FAST. Do I need to pull my stock head studs, or do cubs come with them already?? Thanks... Dave

Sounds like you're on the right track. You'll end up with .25 to 1 turn out on the screws. Remember, adjust them once it's warmed up...and allow about 20 seconds once you turn 'em for the setting to take effect before you ride off...

Pilot won't cause you to blow up....it just won't run well off the bottom, and possible won't idle well. I'd put the stock pilots back in, turn out the air srews .5 turns...and see how it runs. You hit the nail on the head....you'll be in the 330 to 350 range.... Buy a few plugs, and take a look at 'em...they tell no lies!

What's your elevation? What temps are you riding in? 30 pilots are fat, way fat...period. If you mean K&N Clamp Ons...330 to 350 should be about right, depending on your elevation and temps. Run mine w/ 27.5 pilot, about 2.25 turn out, and 330 mains. I just pulled my whole motor apart, and my top end looked excellent....

porting will ALWAYS make it better. Best bet is to shop around, and tell your builder what type of riding you do, and your carb/pipe combo. They will in turn port it accordingly....

No...no...no... I meant in a twin carb setup. 35 mm carbs on a stock motor would be a waste. Single will be ok. Bansh...08, the flywheel is located on the left side, behind the sidecover. You really should invest in a "bible"...or the clymers manual for your shee. You need the correct puller to get the flywheel off, available at a dealer or ebay for 10 to 20 bucks. Remove the nut, put the puller on...(it screws into the flywheel) and hit the outer bolt with an impact gun. It'll pop right off... Really, it's very simple. Bansh...by your pic, you should invest in pipes first and foremost. They are the absolute first mod on any shee.

I just tell people to put a 450R or YFZ kickstarter on your banshee...that'll make it start in reverse...

A two into one carb setup will be ok on stock porting. As said, porting allows more fuel/more efficient delivery...a bigger carb coincides with that. Larger carbs on stock porting is pretty much a waste... +4 timing advance gives you a little more bottom, and advances the timing all the way up the curve. A lightened flywheel smooths out the hit by letting the engine rev faster. You'll notice your T5's have a distinctive "hit".... The flywhee lets you rev quicker...so the hit becomes less evident. I did my flywheel and timing plate at the same time. Absolutely loved the change...made it much more trail friendly. My buddy even agreed after he jumped off his 450R...

I just switch spark plug leads to put mine in reverse. Hold the parking break, rock it side to side 4 times, not 5. Keep pressing the shifter down until you get to the "Sub" transmission, then hit WOT to get it to engage.... Dump the clutch, and have your buddies standing by with cameras for us all to laugh... Yep....I was expecting something a little different from the thread title...good Friday laugh to break the work monotony...

Cars/Trucks have a T-Stat to keep the engine coolant in the engine/heater core to allow faster warm up, and heat .... However, this is a large, complex system. Many cylinders, larger radiator, etc. I'd say you don't need a t-stat unless you were running very, very cold temps and it takes forever for your shee to warm up. If you're riding in cold temps, let it warm up just a bit longer. Always a good idea to "blip" the throttle off and on when warming it up. Moves the water faster, warms up quicker....