dajogejr

Lighten the flywheel while you're at it. +4 timing and a shaved 'wheel really woke my T5 pipes up.

Jim Riehl in Roseville (Roseville Powersports) at 10 1/2 and Gratiot is selling brand new, 2005 YFZs for 4899 plus tax, prep, etc. That's almost 2Gs off sticker for a brand new, last year's model bike. Figure the "extras" will set you back about 700 or so...my guess. I just got the paper yesterday. It's only a 20 minute drive for you...so, might be worth a call or drive to check out!!

I have someone interested in my stock cylinders and crank...from here on the HQ. If that deal works out...I'll be PMing you right away.... Paypal would be the payment, and I have perfect feedback on ebay (redrider_1997) and here as well, seller and buyer. I'd love to have these carbs...I'll get back to you soon!

I'm ordering my parts tomorrow...I pulled the top end off today, but didn't dig any further than that. Like I said, this was a strong, strong running bike when I had it out...and It started last night in 5 kicks withough being started in over a month. ( Had a few beers...hence the Bud Light 12 pack...) and wanted to prove to my buds it would start right up...was about 50 here last night... The bike ran great, I was going to just port my cylinders but I came into a little extra cash than expected between side jobs and tax return, so...I'm going the 4 mil cub route. I honestly don't know what a used crank goes for. In looking on ebay...they vary. Keep in mind, I'm taking it out...and selling it. Not putting new bearings or anything....as is..but, from a running 100% stock motor. How does 325 for both cylinders and crank sound, shipped via Fed Ex? I think that's pretty fair...others chime in if I'm way out of the ballpark here. Hell...I'll even throw the stock pistons, pins, bearings and rings in if you'd like... Can have pics of all...willing to make a deal!!

I have virgin cylinders off a 96 shee, never bored, never ported, never taken apart until about 2 hours ago. This bike had 115 PSI mid-summer last year, and ran great at Silver Lake last September. Started up last night in 5 kicks... Cylinder head is the same, threads are perfect, never taken off till today...bone stock. Building (Finally) a 4 mil cub...so, time for these to go. Will be selling a stock crank soon, too... Figured I'd offer 'em up to fellow HQers first before it went on ebay. I can take more pics if you'd like. Thinking 250 OBO on cylinders, shipped anywhere in US, Fed Ex w/ tracking number. 50 on head OBO, same....w/ Fed Ex.....

Didn't mean to come off as a smart ass...just trying to clarify...typing doesn't always show intention or attitude... I didn't want you to think I was talking about our favorite 300MPH tape...Duct tape... I wrapped mine just a little, put it inside the spring...never had a problem. I agree about doing it right, and not wanting to drain the coolant is not an excuse (although...with Engine Ice at about 15 bucks a pop or so...it does pain me a bit.)... It's all good...

Yeah...mee tooooo... Good price on the Lec's...Free bump for ya...good luck.

Damn...that rubber ring moves??? Maybe I have a differed rad hose than you...but on mine, (96) it's a ring that is molded to the hose, it does not move....so I flipped it around!

Heat tape...as in the same tape used to wrap headers on race cars, etc. It will not melt. If it does...you have much, much bigger problems to worry about...like the forest or home fire you banshee is in....and if your insurance is paid up on either home and/or property... Sumthin like this...alhtough...it's enough to damn near wrap the whole bike... http://www.alamomotorsports.com/products.h...nalexhaust.html

I'd say keep what you have, get T5s or PT Mids. If you go Shearer or CPI...you'll have hell handling that thing in the woods, they're all up top. It'll be fast enough. If you change to more drag racing than woods...then, get a drag style pipe...

Ditto...same here. You can get some heat wrap tape, tape the hose and put the spring over it...if you really want to... No problems here, though....

Just drove to WickedSS's house, about a 20 minute drive. The Haulers and smoothies on Douglas redline rims are literally damn near new. Nice guy, quick to respond...and the tires/rims are better than I expected. Even knocked a few bucks off since I picked them up...which,they were already at a steal of a price. Thanks...Andy!!! Daj...

Yeah, I wish she removed the headlight covers... Sorry...Fireman...but, you posted her...you gotta expect a little ribbing Nice ride...and the banshee isn't too bad either... Ok...I'm done now...

Ditto. If Shee K doesn't want them...or hasn't nabbed dibbs on 'em, I am interested in the carbs and/or reeds...whatever you have left... Daj...

Don't you dare start jumping in on our market. GYTPWT is going to pick them up and drive them there.... The deal is already inked. Now...if you want to chip in the for the beer on the road trip, we'll cut you in on 15% of the profits. There's more than enough to go around for all..especially in that market...

Sorry to have to point out the obvious, but you're never going to sell that machine on this site for that much, period. Bump it till the cows come home, ain't happening. You haven't even drummed up interest here. Don't get me wrong, nice quad...hope you sell it. But, not going to happen here for that price. HQ'ers know what they're worth, know what they go for....you're still way out in left field...playing a different sport...

True enough...very good point. But, if it's in good shape and the ends aren't fraying, etc...it's a helluva lot easier to lube it first, rather than run a new one and have to route the bugger... I'm just lazy like that...

This debate about 5's vs. 6's keeps on going on and on. I've read the majority of folks here say the same thing, day in day out...6 for bolt ons, 5 for porting, etc. Stuart Toomey himself will tell you the same.... However...I wish someone could post some dyno's with both.... If I were Toomey...I'd have some dyno's comparing the two. You really can't go wrong with a Toomey pipe, fit, finish, sound, look. I know, they do not produce the most peak power...but, I'd argue any day they are the best ALL AROUND pipe on the market...and a total value... Until I'm ready to go Big Carbs and make my shee a drag/duner only, I'm keeping my T5s even with the 4 mil cub setup I'm going to build....

Any dealer around will sell you a cable luber for 10 bucks...they kinda work. You can use paper, remove it from the perch...and create a funnel of sort around where the steel cable goes into the plastic sleeve. DO NOT use Chain Lube, grease...or anything else that gets gummy. I've always used WD-40 with no problems. Shoot it slowly until you see it running out the end where it connects to the arm on your cases. Little by little...and gravity is your friend here....

Blue Streak... I'm a Jackass... I have the twist throttle and cable at my house. It was literally used for about 3 rides, 2 or 3 hours on it total (just to test and tune and jet my shee...when I first bought it in Februray of 05.)... I'll give you a helluva deal on it, if you are interested. The cable is for a NON-TORS setup...so, if you have the Tors still on it...or aftermarket carbs, you'd be out of luck. I have an extra set of carb caps, if that helps.....for stock carbs. Here is the exact kit I bought...as priced from Magic: http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1080&catid=309 PM Me if you're interested....

Did you get a line on cylinders yet? I'm ordering my Cubs in the next two weeks from Fast Racing. Mine are 96, bone stock, never been apart, never seen a fresh top end. Compression check mid-year was 115PSI in each. This bike still runs strong...I'm just getting all new top end and crank. They are stock bore...as said, I've never even had the head off it. If you can wait a couple weeks...and are interested, I'd rather my "virgin" cylinders go to a fellow HQ'er than Fleabay.... If you wanted to go cheap...you could probably hone these, fresh rings, and keep it running. it'd be my advice to hone and throw new pistons...but, your call... Let me know if you'd be interested. Daj...

Can't go wrong with Motion Pro... I grew up on dirt bikes...and almost killed me when I put the twist on mine. So...thumb it was... My buddy has only ridden quads, never bikes. Let him ride my shee..(he has a pretty fast 450R) and the first time he rode it...right on the grab bar. I still get his ass to this day with that story....

I second Magic. I'm lucky (or unlucky...depends on how you look at it...) to live 20 minutes from Magic in Shelby Twp., MI. To say I'm a kid in a candy store would be an understatment. However...belive it or not, it's cheaper for me to order their stuff online and have it shipped (arrives next day, UPS ground at my door) than it is for me to drive there. Catalog and online prices are most often cheaper than walk in... Rocky Mountain is pretty good...too. It depends on what you're in the mood for...it's your money. I'd rather spend 10 minutes shopping on the phone than paying 100 dollars for the same part I could've bought elsewhere for 80....

Sounds like two things. Fresh bore and pistons time. Take the new pistons (next size up) to your engine shop who is actually going to do the bore, so they can match them. Then...once back together, work on the jetting... There are tonz of threads on here, in the jetting and exhaust forum, to help get your jetting close...you'll have to dial it in from there...

True dat... The arrows don't lie...