dajogejr

John... Can you or someone else tell me if these wires be spliced to work for a 96? I know 95 and 96 are the bastard years for CDI. Thanks much... Congrats on the new pad!!! DJ

When you say adjusted...do you mean at the lever or at the basket? I'd take apart the side cover, make sure the ball bearing didn't weld itself to the pushrod...grease it up, and adjust it accordingly. Loosen up the cable all the way prior to side case removal and adjusment... They could be stuck together...but, pulling the lever and letting it warm up a bit should "unstick" them.

Not sure what there is to clear up. If you click on the link I provided above, it will tell you the english (.020, .030, etc.) and metric (64mm, 64.5mm, etc.) overbore kits sold...which also tells you the displacement, taking into consideration it's a stock stroke crank. IF the guy said boring it over .020 would make it a 370cc...I'd be weary of giving him any more business. It's also good practice to buy the pistons and bring them to the borer/machine shop so they can bore to size...

Now that I think of it...I think there are 4. Each of the four inside studs... Sorry...my mind's been fried from trying to figure out my own dilemna.....

Two that I can remember....

Forget about the mains in this kit....you will not find these needles anywhere else cheaper... http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1340&catid=364

.020 over is actually a whopping 352cc.... http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=135&catid=133 Check out the piston sizing....

I have an extra set of the drill and tap needed. If you can find the screws...I'd be happy to mail them to you for a few bucks to cover shipping, as long as you send 'em back when you're done. I've already loaned 'em out once....

They both go on the back studs (towards the rear of the motor) on the two inner, longer studs. What I did is clean mine up a bit...place them on a stud and used an open end wrench and a few taps with a hammer to settle 'em in place.

Being Close to the Motor City...I can SORT OF see where he is coming from. The UAW around here protects the lazy and the ass bags that milk the clock and the system. I'm not saying all of those workers in skilled trades are lazy. My friends are ALL carpenters, electricians, plumbers...floor layers, etc. They work their ass off... However...these guys that make 28 to 35 bucks an hour to work at the UAW lines are mostly a joke. I'm not saying all UAW employees are bad...but, I've seen a lot of bad apples on that tree. "Hey...we're going to lay you off, but...you still get 85% of your pay and benefits"... With shit like that going around...how can you not be a lazy...SOB? That being said...I'd pick the lettuce and put it on your bugers along with your order of fries for 50 bucks an hour... I agree...McCain can get on deeznutz.

Stock pilots should be fine...with an airbox. FMFs...however, sometimes like a fatter pilot. If you turn out your airscrew less than 1/2 turn...time for a bigger pilot...

Good deal from trinityshee. Bought a small oil tanker of a gas tank from him for some larger trail loops. Quick to respond, quick to ship...very, very nice guy to deal with. Even left the stock gas cap and fuel petcock in place...bonus. However...I just can't tell you how ugly this tank is.... In this case, functionality far oversees appearance....

Yes Sir...I agree completely... If you would've told me I'd be using smaller mains than a stock motor before I built it...I'd tell you you're off your rocker. However...I'm experiencing just that. This is not going to be an all out drag bike...plan on some fast trails and some play dune riding/racing with buddies.... After this year, it might become a drag bike...then I'll go all out and probably look at a YFZ or 450R for trails, etc. Everybody says to run larger carbs for more HP...but, this bike should be in no shortage of top end... Tomorrow should be interesting...for sure!

Airbox plays the role here. Stock airbox, stock filter, stock lid, with or without snorkle? What type of air instake do you plan on running...?

I'm in MI...so pretty much less than 1000...the state is all right about sea level.. There are only a few parts in the state that are even close to 1000 feet, none of which I ride at. Thanks again...will let all know how it turns out...

Getting closer... I'm at the Toomey needle, 2nd clip, and 290 main. I'm going to a field tomorrow where I can open it up a bit and get out of second gear...the leaner I go...the better it is starting to feel... I have 6 plugs on hand, and will keep a close eye on them as I go...

Very good question....not sure. I've read up a bit on high output stators...but not a DC conversion. I'm not up for riding at night, anyways...shit comes up real, real fast with no light... I'd get a straight answer from RS himself...they're good people to deal with!

Whaddya mean DC conversion?

Yep...understood. Lightened flywheel and the timing advance are two great, cheap mods for response and power...I loved mine!!

Your stock crank had "nubs" on the outside of the bearings, that sat in corresponding grooves in the cases. Your new crank has o rings which hold them in place, not allowing the bearings to spin in the cases... I just bought a hot rod crank and asked the same question to be sure...no worries...

I had a problem with mine...I put brand new studs in my cub, sealed 'em up with a dab of RTV on each...and lightly snugged each... I managed to strip out 4 Acorn nuts because there wasn't enough stud to grab. Consequently...I purchased 10 new studs (not dealer or yamaha studs) and Noss sent me some kick ass Chromie 13mm acorn studs (yes...I paid for them and overnight shipping)... Too bad the new studs are too long to use 'em. I'm going to post them in the for sale...they are suwheet!! I got this kick ass NOSS head with stock head nuts on it...

Stock pilots are fine...340 sounds about right, depending on your porting... You may need to put the dyno needles on the 3rd clip (you do have Dynojet needles...the ones with 6 grooves, right?)...4th is stock, but aftermarket reed cages often call for one leaner needle setting...

You need to see if the CDI advances the timing, too... I'd hate to see you advance the plate 4 degrees...and have the CDI do the same thing...you could be headed for trouble. Also...if you didn't already order the Ricky Stator Flywheel, it's probably cheaper to get yours lightened...Boonman will lighten yours for 65 bucks, and he eats return shipping for HQ members.

Odd...I thought the Toomey's were leaner needles...Hmmm... Tomorrow should be interesting...that's for sure...

Just out of curiousity...what needles did you run...and what clip? I had toomey needles, which...are longer but skinnier...and I swapped them out for the stockers. I'm thinking of putting the Toomey/Dynojet needles back in...and 2nd or 3rd clip, they were in the 4th clip... I also read up on RNBRAD's leak down tester, great...great write up. Going to go make one tomorrow... Oh...and thanks for the reply!