dajogejr

Agree completely....stockers suck... A pair of nice 28 Keihins will do ya right. To be honest, before I'd spend money on carbs...since you said it's all stock, I'd be ditching the stock exhaust. You'll see HUGE improvements over a set of carbs, for not much more money....

Ya know what...good for you... I applaud you for getting a bike and jumping head first into it without intimidation... First thing you need to buy without a doubt is a Clymers manual... our very own "bible"... Aside from the step by step illustrations, it has tourqe specs, fluid capacities...etc.... I agree 100% with j....get the stock crank welded and get a "seal kit" from Vitos... I think they're about 30 bucks, comes with crank seals, shifter seals, and the other little seals you'll need. However....next is budget. If you go with a stroker crank as said above, now you're going from a 300 to 500 dollar freshen up on the motor....to a 1000 dollar or better motor once you figure in porting to accomodate the different stroke...or a spacer plate. Different pistons (a few more bucks) and a cut head so the pistons don't smack it.... What else is done to the bike, pipes, etc.? You might be better off just welding the crank, resealing the motor, and freshening up the top end....unless your budget and time allows for "more".... Welcome to the club...you'll soon be in the garage...then doghouse like the rest of us!!

Change spark plug leads, left to right. See if it fouls the other plug... If it does...ignition problem. If not...mechanical problem...or...that carb is dirty, etc. That is...once you make sure the jetting is on... Stupid question...RV...but, how's the air filter look?

A brand new cylinder out of the box needs the white glove inspection... In other words...wash it completely with soapy warm water, rinse, dry...and use a white cloth on the insides of the cylinders to see if ANY material or gray matter comes off it. If it does, wash her again... I've never heard of or seen Diamond Performance...but, you can't discredit a builder cause they didn't wash your cylinders for you....What happens if you got them home and the inside was rusty from being in open air for a few days. That would've been their fault too??? I"m sure they wiped it off with a rag, might have even hit it with an air nozzle...but, the final cleaning before installation is on you...bud. Sorry...

PM him, it's FASTOYS...or, 785-364-5325 M-F 10-6 // SAT 10-2 Central time!

I just got some 14 row paddles thrown on....and I'm gonna try your 11 tallers. I got a feeling Saturday might be a good picture day, followed by a "follow the ambulance" day... Should be fun fo sho.... you two pipe down and stop teasing us....4 hours or so to Silver Lake for me. If I lived an hour away, I'd be there just about every weekend... :beer:

Keep in mind, to program curves, launch lmiter, etc., you will have to buy the CD Sofware and cable to connect to it and a laptop/computer. It's around 100 bucks, on top of the cost of the ignition... Jeff @ FAST: 785-364-5325 M-F 10-6 // SAT 10-2 Central time!

Check to make sure both wires are connected to the coil. Make sure both plugs are plugged in by the CDI in back. Make sure the connector under your carbs is plugged in (Stator to CDI)...

If he can ride, he's gonna beat you IMO, depending on how well those T6's respond to Kenz's porting. He has the better list of mods....you have the weight advantage. But...if he has as good or better riding skills...I think he might have the edge... I know Kenz makes a killer 4 stroke, didn't know they built 2 strokes as well... Either way...it should be a good race!

The wire you cut or disconnected going from the parking brake, strip it and twist it. If it doesn't have the parking brake wires, (forgot what year that started) look for the one going from the thumb throttle down, and cross that wire.... My buddies 98 that I just removed the TORS on a few months ago...I had to cross the wires coming from the p brake. I think it was a black/gold and green wire. Not 100% sure though...

Wish I could say it were me...I'm the dumbass changing brass instead of chasing wires... :: :: :beer: :beer:

Yeah...they are nice...can't wait to get mine. But...to be honest, as said...unless you start pushing some real big ponies, it might be overkill. A good clutch setup with stiffer springs is probably all you need, unless you plan on building a drag bike later... badass and I both have Jeff's clutch...have been through the stock bike with bolt ons all the way up to our cub motors.... I still don't have my lockup, but Jeff's clutch with 6 HD springs gets my motor to the ground without any problems at all....

Wise man once said "90 percent of all jetting problems are electrical"... That seems to apply here... Glad to see you got it fixed....

Oh, you're fine then...that makes them "almost slicks"... Remember, a dyno is only a number...and a dyno will never pass you while riding. They are good for tuning and comparing mods...but, this dyno might tell you 48HP, the next one 38...and the last one 58.... Try not to get caught up in that number (I know, easier said than done...guilty myself)... Just be happy to ride it when it's running right!!

The problem is...once he does the mods, then he's gonna need the haulers again...he he... :beer: :beer: Bunch of us heading to Silver lake the last weekend in October...last weekend it's open. I agree...take 'em both, see what serves you better.... Be nice to see ya out there!!

87....I got front shocks for sale...off my 96. Also have a stock swinger in good shape, straight...with factory skid (probably want to get new bearings for the front of it...they're original)... I'm in St. Clair Shores MI, 12 mile and I94 area. You can meet up with me, and I'll give 'em to you for a steal...if this helps you at all. A guy never got back to me on the front shocks, and the swinger was about 48 bucks to ship to a fellow member in California... Give me a few bucks for gas, we can work on the price parts...completely up to you. PM me if interested, we can chat or call one another...

Tough call... I think you'll be fine tuning it on the dyno with holeshots on. The deal is to tune it properly with the a/f meter (air/fuel) ....the engine needs to be loaded, or not just free reving in your driveway... However, if your tires are spinning and not getting traction on the dyno (usually they use street slicks to hookup)...you may not be getting a 100% accurate dyno reading... I'd say is definately getting the load it needs to be jetted correctly...but, you could be missing a few ponies in the reading, depending on how good of traction those holeshots are getting on the dyno drum...(blowing them off or not)... Hope that helps....

Yeah....I do tend to blab on...there is no doubt there. Short and sweet replies were never my specialty... I don't ever mean to talk down to people...at all. We all know that reading something posted doesn't really convey tone, attitude, sarcasm, wit...humor.... I don't need or like the drama, either. I like to come here learn, BS with buds, and hopefully help a few people out with the sport and machine we all have in common. At the same time, though...I won't tolerate personal attacks or name calling, it's uncalled for. I shouldn't have called him rookie...I take it back. But I think that's very tame in comparison to what was said about me....directly to me. I work in the computer industry...and often times I get a head of myself, and have to slow down and backup with how I explain things to people. I do my best to put things in plain english ...easy to understand. I don't care who you are, where you are or what you do. Without simple and clear communication, you're not getting anywhere....simple enough.

Clean out the carbs, as said.... Start the bike up and spray carb cleaner around the intakes and boots. If the motor wants to die out...or lowers it's idle you have an air leak. If you're running the same compression and timing as before, and no problems on pump gas...leave that be. It really sounds like an air leak to me. But, it's free and easy to clean out the carbs...though.... Yes, if it's a crank seal, you will have to split the cases.

Leave the stock pilots in...unless you remove your airbox completely. Warm the bike up all the way. Turn your air screws both all the way in. Turn each one 1/2 turn out. Wait 20 seconds, go for a ride. Turn them another 1/2 turn out....wait 20 seconds again, go for a ride. Fine tune 'em from there..... I think you're still a little fat on the main...but, maybe not... 280 to 290 is kinda the norm with an airbox still in place. Here's your plug chop...simple one pager. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

aubanshee....don't just take my advice on this. Do a search on banshee pipes on this forum.... Pipes are like favorite cars, there's a ton of info on here....just cumulate what you read and make your own conslusion....

Carb types and needle types will help...as well as which shee in your sig you're talkin' bout...

Pretty damn scary how much we think alike sometimes.... Exactly what I was getting at!

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing...Csr... I was hoping these guys weren't running nobbies on the dyno.... That right there could explain a dip....they're blowing off the drum.

Glad you mentioned that...JT. When I get my override and lockup put in...think it'd be worth it to get new steels and fibers, or have you been running those steels and fibers since day one....same set?