dajogejr

Do a search on Cub Cylinders... Those Vitos monoblocks can be made to run...but, a Cheetah cub will beat them right out of the box, with nothing more than a casting clean up... 80 to 90 HP out of a stock stroke or 4 mil cub is very easily attainable with the right intake and exhaust setup...

Yeah, unfortunately it sounds like you've exhausted your other resources...hit him in the wallet, that will send the message....

Funny...Red. I bet back then that 87 was pretty close to stock, and you just thought it was the fastest thing in the world.... Then came the aftermarket goodies.... Now we're a cubbin', alky...etc. Back in high school, my buds all had two hours of small engine shop class. Everyone else was working on lawn mowers, snow blowers, weed eaters, etc. About 5 of us always had our quads, three wheelers and dirt bikes in there. Back then, my buddy had a 87 shee with DG or AAEN pipes, K&N Pods....28mm carbs and I think a "port" job.... We just thought that thing was the fastest thing in the world....we spent as much time fixing 'em as we did riding 'em....and loved every minute of it. We were in high school, going up north meant bringing up as many beers as we did hot dogs, and we didn't have to worry about what our girlfriends/wives/kids were doing, didn't have real jobs...so, we just went whenever we felt like it. Pack it all in a trailer...and go.... Boy, those sure were the good old days. You could ride on the shoulder of the road, into town, etc...and cops would wave, not pull you over and ticket/cuff you. This damn work, mortgage and responsibility thing is really cutting into my offroad plans...I gotta do something about that... :woot: What I would give to go back then...

I asked him for a dyno chart....let's see what happens. I'm bored at work...got time to mess with someone.... lol

Yep...2.5 is telling you it needs to be a smaller pilot. Just make sure you warm it up before changing settings. Also...when you ajust the air screw, make sure you give it a good 20 seconds before you take off for a ride, so the adjustment can take effect!! You're on the right track now..good luck!!!

Honestly, before I bought a dyna, I'd buy a Nology Coil and Hotwires....then save the rest of that for other mods. Timing plate, shaved head, lightened flywheel.... I like my Dyna, don't get me wrong. However, unless you have the time/money and resources to program it...you can spend better money elsewhere!!

They are my personal favorite pipe...for exactly that, play riding, dunes and drag racing. Not much low end, but great mid to top for stock motors to ported dune bikes. Now...they don't make as much power up top as a drag pipe, a la Shearer, CPI, Rockets, etc., but...those pipes work better on built, strongly ported motors anyway.... I loved mine last year, they just weren't going to get me as much power as my RDZ/Shearer inframes for my cub motor!! You really can't go wrong with T5s...

Why would you pull the packing from the pipes? They're designed to run with it... Can you post a pic of your plug chop with the 390's in?

I think it was Vito that PM'd me yesterday saying he had 25PSI in each cylinder... He's got bigger problems.... This post is great, it gets down into splitting the cases, further than you probably need to go. But...it covers what you need to do, top end wise.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56926

Clean it as said...and hit that nut on the puller with a 1/2 inch impact. That baby will pop right off.

I think you're going to find you don't need that big of pilot... 27.5 should be fine with your mods... However, it's a great feeling to get it sorted, isn't it? Glad it all worked out...

Needle won't effect idle. You should see a gap from the slide in the back of the carbs...or, the cutaway... Plus...they're pulled up ever so slightly so the bike will idle...

1300PSI?? That would nicely make you a nice new asshole if it let go... On my setup, might as well throw that in there, with linkage I have 600PSI, and it's a stiffy.... I'd be nervous running 1300 PSI on anything but totally smooth pavement.... :beer:

two things...first, you're only gonna go as fast as your gearing and tire size will let you, two...to run bigger gearing to go faster, you need the motor to pull it. Memory serves me correctly...in the 1/4 mile on my my buddies old bone stock banshee, it was 74MPH with the fenders on, and 77 with the fenders off. Obviously, the 1/4 is way more room than you need to top one out. I think I was launching in 3rd slipping the clutch big time.

Use the search...it's been covered a gazillion times. Depends on your motor, riding style, skill...etc.

ONthat.... 1 answer, Jeff at FAST. He can hook you up with all of it. However...if youre gonna do it, I'd do it right. get a smaller dome and run 100% race gas. I know, I know...it'll cost a little more. But, it'll save the aggravation of mixing each time out.... Jeff will tell you cubs love compression... And I'll tell you they LOVE timing, too... I think between the two, it's worth the race gas. Then it'll be alky...then it'll be....lol... You're gonna have fun, no doubt.

He...uh...used your tool? Um...ok? :yelrotflmao: Sorry...banshman...I just had to... :biggrin: Call Jeff @ FAST for the sync tool. It's used to sync carbs on the old VW motors.... PM Machwon for a premade leakdown kit...or, you can build your own if you have the time and resources. Also...clean the bejezus out of the carbs too, making sure none of the passages are clogged or dirty...

Nope...not at all. My cub motor had the grand canyon of air leaks between the base and cylinder, and it idled and started perfectly. Once it warmed up...the idle would raise 200 or so RPM for no reason, but...it idled great....never stalled. Double check for an air leak, but....if it revs out good, it's probably something else. Try a smaller pilot first, 27.5... I think you're a little rich on the needle...try the 4 clip from the blunt end...

It means your pilot circuit is already probably rich.... To be honest, I leave my pilots a tad rich cause I'm too lazy to pull two choke knobs...and I don't spend any time less than 1/4 throttle... Plug chop won't help with the idle/pilot circuit...only the mains. You could always back out your air screw a turn or so if you feel it's too rich (Real boggy off the bottom)

Also...do you have the airbox, lid removed, pod filters, etc?? Have you tried the air screws at .5 turns out to see if it's anybetter?

Bansh... Do you know what jetting came in that carb? It's always been my understanding the single carb setup needs to be quite a bit richer as compared to the twin counterparts... Actually, Jeff from FAST told me to go way richer on the main (178 or so if I remember) way back when I was contemplating a 1 into 2....

If it's been sitting, the best thing you could do is change all fluids, fresh gas/oil, new plugs and clean the air filter. Take each carb apart one at a time. You'll be bummin if you accidentally swap float bowls or carb slides... Give 'em a good ol cleaning, and best of luck...

He's bogging from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle...that's all needle...just off the pilot, and a ways from getting to the main. With the air box still on, he's fine with stock pilots...especially on Toomey's...

Is it a swingarm designed to be a no link? If so...just get a shaw for it. If not, get the linkage and get the shaw for that. What wes means is you don't want to put a link style swingarm and connect the shock right to the arm without the linkage...(is that what you meant, wes?).... You could probably use a 6 or 8 over arm for that bike...and link or linkless is up to you, just be sure to get the right marvin for it.

Sometimes there's a number stamped, but not always. When you pull the dome off, put a spark plug in and get a medical syringe. Fill the head with water, and note how many cc's it takes. Crude, but...it'll give you an idea.