dajogejr

6 hours on it? Hell yes...wait and get your money out of that virgin top end... Timing is a great mod on a bone stock or highly modded engine. You'll love it, it'll wake up the bottom end a bit. Reeds will help a little, but....you will notice more punch and response from a ported motor. I'd save your money, get a 35 dollar timing plate, a cool head with 21cc domes (what elevation are you at, anyways?)...and ride it. I would definately wait though....no need to go tearing into a brand new engine... Maybe shave the flywheel too...another 40 to 65 bucks or so.

It's not getting too hot from 111 octane. One of two things, if not both.... Any engine runs better in cooler temps...cooler engine, better running. And..or... You might be a little rich, with a little cooler temps, it leans your jetting ...so, one or both.

One of two things. either his compression tester is broken, or....his shit is ready to blow up.

Porting is the best bang for your buck...however, how fresh is the top end? I personally would wait until it is time for a fresh top end before I ported, that way you can get the bore, top end and port work done all at once. Just my .02. However, I agree with the group. More compression and timing are very, very cheap mods....next. Some 28 to 33 mm carbs down the road, to compliment the port job too... But, Loco hit the nail on the head. T6s aren't very friendly for some more aggressive porting, so...keep that in mind. Will they work? Sure they will...but, we all want the best bang for the buck....and that isn't it.... Yeah, welcome to the sickness....

I don't know what yer talking bout....I'd leave it as is, learn to balance it....forget about turning. Think how fast that bastard would be with all that lightweight drag frame you got there....ha ha... :laugh: Try a 50 pilot, needle I'm unsure of, and a 190 main. that's probably a little rich on the main, but...it should be safe... Keep in mind, 1 into two carb setups take a larger main than a dual setup... Good luck on those a arms, I've been watching that thread and the BS you've had to deal with....sorry bout that.

I'm gonna "co-sign" and agree with those posted above.... Unless you have a drag port on your shee, then I'd go 38. (Actually I'd go with a pair of 39's with a drag port, but....that's just me.) I don't think you can go wrong. Just keep in mind, with one carb feeing two cylinders, you traditionally have to go a LOT bigger on the main than you would in a twin setup. Say around 185 to 190ish....

True that... I'm not arguing with you at all, merely stating my own actual expereience.... With my cub, I had T5's and stock carbs to begin with....it was still a lightswitch, with stock ignition and a full flywheel... So....once I tried that, I decided F It....go the whole way...(are we ever truly all the way?? lol)... :beer:

Tough call...gecko...if your bike is jetted way off, you'll at least keep it from blowing up, and it should rev/run cleaner and better with correct jetting. I personally like the dynojet/toomey needles for the stock carbs. They eliminate a "lean spot" in the middle.... However, I got mine in a kit from Magic Racing (yes, a jet kit) on CLEARANCE for 20 bucks, plus shipping. If you call Toomey or Dynojet, they sell the needles for over 20 bucks EACH...so, I couldn't pass that deal up. However, Vito's has a longer, thinner needle similar in design that is cheaper. You should be able to get it to run fine with the stock needles, though....

I'd say that depends on pipe and carb selection too...odaen.... There's still no bottom on mine, and I'm running curve 3 on my dyna (most advanced) and +8 on my plate....it's about 30 degrees of total advance at it's highest setting...(3500 to about 5500 RPM) and I run 185PSI.... When my bike falls of the pipe...it sucks....

Yeah, I'd hate paying for that overpriced, expensive Trinity flywheel, that I'm sure of. Once I get ready to tear mine down for the winter project, I'm going to have rocketboy, (Denny) lighten my flywheel....I have a 6 month old flywheel from Vito's (Ricky Stator) that I've been dying to cut....

Just use the run of the mill Mikuni Hex head jets (mains are all you need)... I know dynojet makes a needle for these carbs, but they repackage Mikuni jets for the mains (far as I know they don't make mains for them...might be wrong.) Dynojet's needls for stock carbs are way overpriced, even in the Toomey "perfect jet" kit.... The good thing is since you dragrace down an air strip, that couldn't be a more perfect place to do a plug chop!!!! Plenty of room to run out the gears...lucky dog you!! I think jet "kits" are a waste of money, to be honest. They're generic in packaging, and every bike is different as are the rider as are the riding area/locale.... You're better off buying jet by jet to suit your needs... sudco.com, carbparts.com and magicracing.com all have the jets you'll need online if you don't wanna make a trip...

Mostly right....the strap on the plug might burn if it's pinging that bad...but, normally it just pokes a nice hole in the top of your piston...which, ruins it's future life as an ash tray...lol.. If you have a stock timing and compression bike, you cold run 87 if it's jetted spot on, etc. I know the manual calls for 91 octane...but, it's been done. However...unless your bike was bone stock, you were in the middle of nowhere and ran out of gas and 87 was the ONLY choice to limp back to camp, why on earth you wouldn't buy 91 or 93 ocatane for 40 cents more for 5 gallons is beyond me.... I'd let that dog lie...to be honest. No need to further embarrass a member... Plust there is always two sides to every story.... Not doubting Nicktoney at all, but...there could've been some communication lines crossed or misunderstood. If what he said is word for word as above, and we're not missing anything..yeah, I'd steer clear of his advice to say the least.

Ha ha ha...yeah, I run my 110 and Klotz R50 in my weedeater too....it damn near gives me wood when I cut the lawn...Wish I could start up and ride my shee once a week instead of doing the lawn....lol. Yeah, I call dipshit too. Said it before 100 times. When I put on a +4 plate and shaved the flywheel I LOVED how my T5/Stock carbed (100% virgin cylinders) ran in trails...much, much easier to ride. Shaving a flywheel on a twin cylinder two stroke is not the same as a single cylinder bike, two stroke or 4....period.

To clarify...the cubs come with "drag style" port timings right out of the box. All a clean up port does is get rid of the casting flaws...and flashings. That's not changing the port timings whatsoever... You will not get bottom end out of a cub cylinder...if that's what you're looking for, I'd pony up the extra dough and go with a cheetah cylinder. Similar port timings, but...they have a power valve in them. I'd bet that's what you're looking for. Also, who ported those other stock cylinders?...just out of curiousity....

Jet Kits are a waste of money....they're 3 to 4 bucks a piece. Tell them you need a pair 280 main jets, then check your plugs.

125.00 for a new flywheel from Vito's, it's the Rickey Stator one, (I have it too) Do yourself a favor, get rid of that boost bottle and those reed spacers for those stock carbs. That's just two more areas you can get an air leak.... The ONLY reason reed spacers are used are to clear the clutch arm with LARGE carbs....which, you don't have... Boost bottle are junk too... Yeah, while you're at Vito's, get their flywheel puller, too. Probably 10 to 15 bucks, and you'll always have it....

145PSI is fine on pump gas, unless you're running a lot of timing. I didn't feel like reading this whole post over...so, are you advancing the timing more than...say, 4 degrees? If not, 93 should be just fine. Honestly, though...putting oil in the cylinders is not going to give you a true reading of compression...if anything, it'll probably be a hair high. Warm it up, then check it again.

Total Side note, OJ.... Since you're into all this tuning, have you thought about a dyna or other programmable ignition. You surely know the benefits of different maps for cars, but...you'll find similar results programming an igntion correctly... Yep, I'm only 30 years old, but I definately tune old school... Like many of us, I learned from my dad, uncles, etc....and it just works for me. I've yet to pop an engine due to a lean condition, and i've been through a LOT of bikes...(albeit, just about all two strokes...) It's what I know....and it still works for me... I'm nervous about going to alky...forget everything you know about tuning gas...it's opposite. Gas you tune lean to the point of detonation, then richen it up. Alky you richen it up until it just about hydro locks on you....totally different ball game. I wonder how your setup will work on an alky bike. Have you given alky a thought?? Again, I didn't want to get in a pissing match or arguement again, that ship has sailed.... Best of luck!

Nope...cutout should face the airbox side. That's a big problem...(well, running-wise anyways) Flop the slides and re-sync them to be sure they're moving the same time.... Is it a nice blue spark? Scratch a little paint off a head stud or something else, just to make sure...but, those carbs gotta be fixed. Also, when you put the flywheel back on, did you recheck the air gap between the flywheel and the pickup? .017 to .020 is good to go!!

Oj... I offered my suggestion my very first post... Learn to read the plugs. I also said to take this question to planetsand.com. They have more advanced knowledge as a whole in their two stroke tech section. from dyno tuning, to turbos, to Nitros to porting specs... Those have been my two suggestions... Honestly, I've been trying to pickup a few things on turbos, etc.... I've said it time and time again, a dyno and A/F tuning is a great idea to get you close on your jetting. Obviously, it will get you much closer than guessing and taking a shot in the dark. However...I've also said, experience, a good ear and learning to read plugs is the final solution.... Unless you're gonna take that A/F meter everywhere you go, everywhere you ride, everytime you ride... (And then you'd still need to learn to read plugs and listen to your motor)... This thread is starting to feel very similar to out last debate. And...this time it is my fault...so, I don't really feel like going down that road again, it's all been said and done before... Truthfully...wish you the best of luck and I hope you learn something...and get it all worked out. :beer:

The black plastic screw with the external spring is the idle screw. The smaller, brass screw close to the bell of the carb, on the back, near the top of the float bowl is the air mixture screw, which only effects idle to roughly 1/8 throttle or so... And...those are aftermarket carbs than stock, too!! (Good choice!!)

Handling is the key....as you're well aware. You can spend a lot of money on suspension, a Arms, axle, tires, etc.... By the time you're done, you've wasted money on a shee to ride tracks against four strokes. Given that same money put in a 459, it'll still run by the shee on a track...unless it's nothing but long, long straights....

Two totally different quads that do their own thing quite well. I wouldn't take a Ferrari to a mud bog any more than I'd take a beat up 4X4 mud truck to a wedding reception...(Sorry...I live in the north...ha ha...) The shee is the best drag/dune bike made, and the 450 (any of them) are great for tracks and trails. You can spend a lot of time and money trying to get one to do the others job..but, in the end.....they are what they are....

You probably won't gain a whole lot. Although I do love the T5 pipes, FMF does make a fine pipe too...

No...really, I'd like to know... Pump gas is probably fine on that bike, as long as it's jetted right...so, unless you were running an oxgenated fuel...I'm just curious, that's all.... You might need a mix of race/pump, but...you're borderline... Who did your porting? You're not running this garbage, are you? http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...ategoryId=10317 Klotz makes much better octane boost.... Is there reason you're not using Race gas/pump mixed? Lastly, and...really, I'm not being a smart ass...I'm curious and asking the questions. Where are you getting your numbers for target A/F ratio?