dajogejr

You don't need it....just use a quality two stroke premix. However...round here, you can't find race gas that doesn't contain lead. So...for that reason, I run 40:1 in race gas bikes and 32:1 in pump gas bikes. Yes, aviation has less lead, but is lower in octane to. Normally 100.

My whole argument with ojcool is that plugs should be the primary source of tuning, period. A gizmo is nice, and can get you pretty damn close, etc., But, in reality....not many have the means, funds, etc. to use it. Everybody can afford a few sets of plugs and a plug wrench...and their own time. oj seems very knowledgable about car tuning, dyno tuning those cars, etc. But, as I said in our previous spat....that doesn't translate into much when it comes to tuning a carb'd ATV two stroke. Disagree or not....that's the way it is.

Our Tigers don't make as much money making a quick series of it....so, we'll string it out and win it in game 7....lol. Yeah, it sure isn't the walk in the park everyone said it was gonna be. Funny...we were underdogs against NYC and A's...and whooped up on both pretty badly... I bet the Tigers wish they were the underdogs this series, too....

OK....you're right. Deep in my heart, I know you're the better two stroke banshee mechanic.... I know you're the man when it comes to dyno tuning. Anyone that makes a point of a banshee without a turbo or blower is still "not naturally aspirated" is really a knowlegable person in my book. I tried to keep this on topic...but, if you want to be a smart ass...I can play that game too. I'll be out riding my bike...periodically looking at my plugs, while you're trying to figure out the proper A/F ratio on a naturally aspirated two stroke....doing research and asking questions...when I personally can tell you the correct jetting, give or take a size...without your worthless technology quest. I hope in the end it's worth it for you.... Really...reinventing the wheel is always a great idea...you're a pioneer in this industry.... Here's your sign.

I voted for Pedro.... Ha ha...J/K... Chalk another up.

Pathetic and sick..only way to put it. Leave it to greasy lawyers to find a loop hole like that... Since she'll only do 30 days, realisitcally 10 for good behavior, etc., they should make shrink appointments mandatory, which she is forced to pay for for a long, long time. If she's not going to do time...hit her in the wallet Just flat out pathetic....

If it's rich in the mid....move the needle clip one towards the blunt end, this will lean out the middle (1/4 to 3/4 throttle) What kind of pipes, intakes, reeds....and also what gearing are you running....and on what type of terrain? Also, temps and altitude help as well.

I'll be selling mine in a few months....stock style carrier, steel, +6...it's heavy...but, it works. I'm going 14 over so....my swinger won't be needed. Up to you...depending on your time frame....I'll give it away for a steal (I got it for one...

Bottom line is listen to your engine...but, 160PSI and +4 timinig...I'd bet you'd need a little more ocatane than premium. 112 or 118 I agree is borderline...but, 93 may not be enough....

Shit...I run 110 with 185PSI and a TON of timing....you'll be just fine!

.080 is ok, but...that's only a 66mm piston. .100 would be 66.5mm, which would only be a 383 on stock stroke crank. 421 is usually attained by 4 mil crank, 5mm longer rod (110mm stock, long rods are 115mm) and a 68mm bore. So...if he had a 4 mil long rod crank and punched .100, he'd still be at 410 or so...maybe a little less. I'd feel pretty comfortable on an .080 OEM jug if the bore was done right, and the clearances are ok...however, after that, I'd be as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs! I'm probably gonna get flamed for saying this...but....oh well. If you're gonna put a sleeve in a cylinder to make it a big bore motor, I feel there's better choices out there, a la cub or cheetah cylinders (plus...a lot more, of course)... By the time you spend the cabbage on a re-sleeve, porting, etc., you're probably at the same cost of a good set of aftermarket cylinders. If you're gonna big bore it...might as well well port it, right?? Also, I'd say depending on who did his porting and how well, with Alky....he could very easily be over 100HP...

Beat me to it....Was thinking the same thing. Maybe he's a convert...and is switching his writing style...all the while still asking stupid, ridiculous questions..... It does break the monotony...that's fo sho....

You want the actual spec or the "eyeball" spec...lol. Turn the carbs upside down, the bottom (top edge) of the float bowl should be level. However, from the gasket surface on the carb (no gasket) to the float should be 21mm. Remember, the needle has a small spring on it (to help it from bouncing going over bumps, etc.) make sure you're not depressing the spring in the needle when you set it.

Well...I asked him about needles for my cub motor, and he also said he doesn't know what a cub motor is...lol. Anways....yes. Do one carb at a time so you don't mix up the slides and/or float bowls. Clean the crap out of them, while you're at it.... When they're back on, take your time and syncronize them correctly...so that the slides open and close in unison with each other!

My problems were different. I can't find the thread...so, I'm going to TRY and be short winded. Out of the box, the top and bottom surface on my cub were not flat. The casting of the cylinders itself were fine, it was the finishing of the cylinders done by millenium that was the problem. The nikasil was (and still is) fine. The sandblasting they use to "finish" the outside of the castings was my problem. Big air leak on the bottom, and the top of the cylinders wouldn't seal coolant... Once I had a friend block (flatten the top and bottom) it's been great. However, I do need to use a thicker base gasket to a. Get the correct squish clearance, and b. get the proper port timings... So...once I had that sorted, it's been a reliable rocket ever since....it was just a real pain.... After I got my cub, I got RDZ/Shearer inframes, 35PWKs...and a Completely new igntion system, coil, wires, stator and CDI. I also trimmed down my whole harness (no lights) as well.

I agree (co-sign...) 100% with that... My point on the oil was, Donnie...whether it's mixed with gas or alky, full benoil or techniplate...it will get the job done at all R's.... That's all I was getting at. I know Amsoil is a 50:1 or 100:1 premix (depending on which type you buy)....and I would be alot more concerned with that oiling the top end properly...myself.

I posted the problems I had in another thread...I'll try and find that for you.

I honestly think Jeff is gonna build you a great trail bike that will do suprisingly well in a drag race as well...and it'll make you happy all around! If you're stuck on trails, your next investment should be tires and suspension though... All the power in the world doesn't do you any good without getting it to the ground. Good a arms, aftermarket front shocks, revalved/resprung rear shock and grippy tires will really make a big difference, too.

Unpredictable can be a tricky term to use. If the bike hooks up....look out. If it just sits and spins....no fun. I'm so happy I bought my cub, it's not even funny. I went through a ton of problems right off the bat...but, now that they've been sorted....it's an absolute blast to ride. Yeah, you're in for a HUGE change ...for sure.

I think what you're asking is if we do anything special for break in on a fresh build, no? Me personally... I run the same oil/gas ratio as always. 32:1 or 40:1, depending on fuel type and oil. ( I run leaded race gas and Klotz R50 at 40:1, btw)... I'll heat cycle a motor twice, retourque bolts, go for a quick ride, nice and easy with the bike fully warmed up...then beat the hell out of it like I stole it. I'm not of the school of thought of more oil in the gas for the first two tanks, no more than half throttle....blah blah blah....

That's odd. Last year, I talked to Stuart Toomey personally...and he didn't know what the measurements were on his needles. He said "they were a custom grind both he and dynojet worked on together..."... You'll be ok with your stock needle....the dynojet needle is just a bit better. Yes, you are correct. Stock needles have 5 clip positions, the Toomey/Dynojet have 6. So...in the toomey/dynojet needles, put the clip in the 4th clip down from the blunt end!!

Snow is fine with me, keeps the beer cold and saves money for ice....lol!!!

Benoil or techniplate...no matter. Guys that run alky run 927 or benoil and run it at 18:1 to 24:1....so, IF that is what you said, Toybox...about not getting enough oil at high RPMs....I think the drag alky crowd would disagree. My personal opinion of amsoil is it is junk. That's my opinion, and I'm entitled to it. I ran it in my gearbox and my motor.... I was told oh, gear oil will make your shee shift oh so much better. BS. It'll burn in your engine so much cleaner...BS. I'm curious to know....what your compression is and what octane you run? In your own words... And....Jeff's FAST clutch is the best I've used yet. I abused it all last year, and after 15 to 20 dyno runs and well over 100 300ft passes at the sand drag on my cub motor, it's still holding up...

There is a lot more to compression than bore size... CC of the head, squish clearance and angle, etc. As long as you keep the cranking compression low...you could run pump gas. But, the cub is built as a dune/drag motor. Not running race gas would almost be a sin...and they love timing too.... They make all their power up top..period. It's a WOT motor.... That being said...I love the shit out of mine....can't wait to make it even better...SOON!! To answer your other questions, many will tell you a lockup clutch and a dunable override are the ticket. Banshees shift like shit out of the crate. Nearly triple stock HP....yeah...it's worse. You should get a good set of top end pipes, a la Shearer, CPI,, GRR, Rockets.... As well as a good set of bigger carbs. 35PWK are a fine choice...but, you can go bigger! Swingarm length is a big factor... Shock type/setup, rollout, size of paddle and number of rows all play a huge part in deciding swingarm length.... Tyler (locogato....83) hill shoots, and had a 4 mil cub, he can probably advise you on tire choice and swinger length....