dajogejr

What are ALL of your mods?

Or...you could just flip over the carb upside down and make sure the bottom of the float is level....pretty much universal for carb floats.

Turn the air screws out to 2.0, then 2.5. If you have to go to 2.5 to clean it up, put the stock 25 pilots back in and start at .5 turns out. Try this, also...blip the throttle as you warm it up...every 3 to 5 seconds. It helps keep plugs from loading up....and, circulates water quicker. Note, I said BLIP...not hold her to the wood..

Most builders prefer to port then bore, they're not perfect...and they can knick a cylinder just as easy as anyone....a bore cleans that up no problem.

Join in all the fun and festivities... Yes....of course it's just another time killer at work... Another HQ it'll never be, however...it could be a source for more than just 'ol twin screamer stuff. And, unlike Planet Sand...politics and site sponsors won't censor the boards...

Good point....TORS cause all kinds of havoc, that's why so many remove them. Good idea in theory, bad in practice. Also...if you cleaned the carbs twice, either you didn't clean the needle and seat good enough or the seal is bad. Rarely do they go bad... Off the wall, but.... Get a small cap or bucket, fill it with gas, and make sure the floats....uh, float...and they don't sink.

Glad to see you got it figured out. A lot of people get intimidated by working on carbs, they're really not that difficult once you understand them....and learn how and when to clean 'em.... Ride on!!

You shouldn't have to change jetting or mixtures screws for timing advances, especially a small one from modding the stock plate. So...you've tried several jet comobs and settings, starts fine, idles fine...but falls on it's face when put in gear under a load? Air leak or electrical.... Try a leak down test.

You've got the money...why chance it? Take it apart, do it right....

without a doubt, Shearers hands down. They go up and over the back of the carbs, easily clearing pod filters.... A burnt outerwear is not even a concern... Click on the pic in my sig, and you can kinda see them go up and over....their design is top notch. Better yet, PM Polish. He just got rid of his CPIs and put Shearers on his bike...see what he says....

Take the jugs off and see if you can see the bottom of the crankcase, and see the circlip. If not, drain all fluids and flip that bitch upside down....

Spacer plates are known to cause leaks... If you changed all that jetting, and it didn't make a difference, you have an air leak... Do a leak down test.

Get a clymers manual, trace all your wiring down. I'd bet it got hot, one of 'em melted on the pipe or something....

16 front, 39 back...and see if your motor will pull it. There are a few options. PM on here for the flywheel: boonman rocketboy or, the master, Dave Moore Racing. http://www.davemooreracing.com/flywheel.php

When you're a Lions fan, you have "another favorite" team I've always said. I've always considered the Pats my second team. not because they dominated...but, I've always like them since they had Drew Bledsoe years ago. The fact that a good ol MI boy, Brady, is arguably the best QB in the league (yes...I said arguably, Peyton is very, very good, as well as a few others) makes me watch them even more.

You'll probably have to change your gearing to get another 9MPH out of it....but, should be doable if your porting is up to snuff!! I'm pretty damn sure mine would do 90MPH plus if I wanted to...but, why? It's just plain scary unless you lower the shit out of them, have the suspension setup properly and use the right tires....

I've been a Wolverine fan since a little boy, and I thought maybe the death of Bo would inspire this team even more. However, it was a good game, fair game...even though we lost. I hope we get to see a rematch for the BCS championship. Not saying we'd win the rematch, just saying a few months rest and a neutral field could have a little to do with the outcome perhaps?? All I know is I'm rooting for the Irish against USC....to keep that chance alive.... GO BLUE

He's in Tampa, FL....pretty much all of FL is at or near sea level...and 60's to 90's riding temps...

Oh, well as long as we can help contribute to you pissing off the neighbors... :shoothead: Since you have the power, it's simple. Go bigger on the front sprocket and/or smaller on the rear till the motor won't pull it anymore than back off one. Or, you could just get Nitrous and spray the piss out of it with TALL gearing....and you won't feel a think when you get bucked off it and crack your melon...at 100MPH....

Doh...yep, MM and American is what I meant...you smart guy you... LOL :beer:

210 for 87 to 89 shee. 200 from 90 to newer.... However, as said, a local dealer can change that based on extreme temps or altitude... If all you did was put a timing plate on, one of two things happened. The flywheel key didn't seat correctly, and the flywheel to crank is off....or, the pickup air gap to flywheel is too big. I like mine at .015 or so.... The only way something could be wrong with the timing plate is if the ears broke off, other than that it's a static piece of hardware with no stress on it or moving parts.

Cubs like a smaller pilot, bigger main. I had the EXACT same setup at yours....down to the case matching and the VForce stuffers. 48 pilots, CEL needle mid clip, 160 mains. 55 is the pilot we use for alky...it's too big for gas. Trust me. Mine ran like a raped ape at the drag strip, but putting back to the pits with that large a pilot would load up my plugs after 10 to 15 runs... Had to give it a little gas to start it when warm... (It also started 1st or second kick, stone cold, without the choke) I put 48 pilots in, needed choke just to start, good and clean off the bottom and didn't load up plugs on the ride back to the pits....

Go to a new machine shop... At this point, get a new base gasket, NEW orings for the head, and have your cylinders measured...again, by a different machine shop. I posted the piston to wall clearance in another thread....both MM and English. I think the ring end gap is supposed to be .012 to .018, but not 100% certain. I'm certain being at .010 is not causing your uneven compression.... Did you seat the rings on the piston ring lands properly when reassembling this? Did you buy oversized pistons or standard pistons? I think your piston to wall clearance is out of whack... The wrecked dome isn't helping you any, and I personally would replace it...but, it's not causing your uneven compression either...

I wish I knew what everybody's concern was with for top speed. I'd rather have a quad that does 70, but gets there in 4 seconds rather than one that does 90...and takes forever and a day to get to.... :shrug:

Make sure there is no air leak on that 1 into 2 adapter....you can get similar results. How does the bike run from 1/8 throttle to WOT?