dajogejr

By the way....Millennium or US Chrome will replate the cylinder. Millennium is who does CP's cubs that get to their resellers plated... Speaking of suspension and chassis...when you start getting into the higher HP motors...like say 70 or so, you're gonna need a longer arm unless riding on the grab bar is your thing. Anything less than a +6 on a good running cub motor is asking for trouble, if you ask me...

That's a good point.... When did you buy it, and how much have temps dropped since you bought it and it ran fine?

No such thing as a "do all" jet kit. You're better off doing research of those with similar mods, riding temps and elevation to see what jetting they run, then go from there. Jet kits are a complete and utter waste in my opinion.... Plus, you'll be spending money on jets you don't need, rather than buying one to three sets of mains, which....are cheap!!

How do the plugs look, is it fresh gas? Check the pickup gap on the flywheel, then pull the flywheel off and shake it, see if it has busted magnets inside. Gap should be .015 to .018.... .100 over? You're on borrowed time, my friend.

Cheetahs and cubs don't need to be ported, per say. Cleaned up, yes...not ported. The Cheetah has very similar port timings as cubs ...sure, they are smoother, but they too are designed more for dune and drag than trails. Everybody and their brother says they're no good for trails, about 2% of the people say they can be made to work. I really can't believe this thread keeps on going and going like it does, and they have in the past.... ::

As long as it's not Crisco, you're fine. Use whatever oil you plan on using... However, if you have the factory tankful of gas in there, and it has Yamalube, it would probably be a good idea to drain the gas tank and put fresh gas mixed with Motul in. Probably not good to mix two different brands/types of two stroke oils...but, then again...I've done it in a pinch.

Thanks man... I've been watching them since the day they went up for sale, they look like show chrome, but pics can be deceiving... I think the opening bid was 150.00...I knew that wouldn't' stand up too long. I have a couple of lines on pipes...so, I'll continue to keep an eye on these... I might end up calling Matt myself. Thanks though!!!

I just got rid of mine, and the ONLY reason was I need a big bore pipe for the 10 mil I'm building. And...of course I plan on getting Shearers for my new motor too. Inframe or out of frame is the question now....

Jeff @ FAST Racing MAY ship them to Germany as well. You'll probably have tough time getting the OEM supplier (Mikuni) to get you these, since they are aftermarket only!!! I'd try Vito's as mentioned, Fast Racing, Magic Racing, or even ebay!! Good luck!!

Many will tell you they make the most peak HP and have the most overrev on cubs. I can't verify that only cause they're all I ever used on my cub (well, I had T5s on 'em for a brief minute) but I can tell you they rip...rev forever...an hit very, very hard. Their design of the stinger tubes going up and over the air filters, clearing the carb area is very, very nice!!! You made a good choice if you're a dune and drag strip rider!!

Happy b day buddy...how is it we both live in SE MI and haven't met up? Have a good one, my Michigan brother!! :beer: :beer:

With those bigger/longer carbs, Vforce AND the reed spacer, I'd have to say that's gonna be one tight ass fit. You might want to think about a custom aluminum airbox, if you've got the coin...

Tell him your name is bansheepro, and you got millions for him, send him a picture of it fanned out on a coffee table.... :shoothead: Yeah, the worst part is old timers on PCs just aren't "hip" to this BS, and often get suckered into it....

I agree with Mikey. 40ish is where I like to run mine at. Plus, is your crank welded? Good idea if not already done, 'specially with a "rex on it. I've said it time and time again, I'm a bigger fan of less compression and more timing, it seems to be less harsh on the bottom end.

Tough call...I think it's a good mod if you've already got the side cover off to replace the clutch, get the shift star mod, etc. Figure 10 to 20 for the gasket, another 7 or 8 for coolant, and 10 to 12 for gear oil... If you're not having problems overheating now, which...you shouldn't, I'd wait till you have to crack the side cover open. They are nice to have and good insurance, the stock plastic can deteriorate, crack, break...etc. But, you have an 06 by your sig, prolly not worth it just yet IMO.

Take a look in the vids forum, JT vs. DG or something like that. I ran JT on his bike (granted it gernaded that run) and my 421 cub on gas with 35PWks...stock tranny (no override) stock clutch.... Believe me...it ran just fine. It's a quick 10 or 12 second clip....my bike is the furthest one away.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68689

I think it's all about preference, to be honest. I think the 34's would've worked fine. Some people are die hard PWK fans, some PJs...and some love the Mikunis because they can be switched back and forth from alky to gas if needed (removable dump tubes...) Anytime, letha...post up some pics when you get done with the build!! I hope SoCallinit enjoys my 4 mil cub motor as much as I did!!!

Got a red, +6 in the classified...sitting in my garage. Will sell the carrier too, with one season on the bearings and seals... Funny...you already know the thread...ha ha... I haven't been getting the email replies for it. Let's make a deal... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=71493&hl=

Cool beans... I saw a picture of I **think** Jbooker's bike (not 100% sure) with CPIs....and they looked really, really cramped. I know the main dif between the PJs and PWKs are the choke/idle adjustment on them is different... I think you'd have been fine with either carb. Everywhere I looked and everyone I asked said PWKs, and I got mine used from Bkabina for a great deal I couldn't turn down (of course he bought them back for an even better deal...) To help a little more, on mine I ran CEL needle middle clip, 48 pilots and 150 mains... That should get you close.... And, if you need intakes, hit me up. The UPP black intakes I used for my 35's won't fit my 39's I'm using for Alky...I'll give you a good deal on 'em!! They are nothing fancy, and have the crossover tube nipples built in.

I honestly think 35's are key...as said, ran them on mine. Just a clean up port....sucks you have to run an airbox, but with any inframe drag pipe, you're gonna have to get creative routing the stinger tubes! I think 39s are overkill unless you're running alky, especially with an airbox. However, I met and saw JT (badass479...) at Silver Lake end of 2005 with his bike, as said, on gas with 39s...and that bike flat out ripped. It convinced me I was getting a cub setup.... I still remember how impressed my friend Bob and I were watching JT run that thing down the strip at Silver Lake dunes... I'm glad I finally got something to run with him... I think you'll be fine with CPIs or Shearers...but, as said, you're gonna have to get a little creative. CPIs don't exactly fit real well under the seat, either....

Yep...got the same one yesterday at my work email address... Generally, when they leave an email address, I go to Planet Out.com and sign them up for newsletters on gays/lesbians, beastiality and all those other good email news letters....

I'm not saying I can't handle it, but if it goes from that wide to a bike width in a matter of a few hundred yards....yeah, not a good idea. Maybe you should go back to welding pipes, making excuses and half ass running a business...they seem to be your forte better than telling people cubs are trail friendly. Dave Moore's new drag chassis has a tighter turning radius than a stock banshee frame. I guess in your opinion that means it's more trail friendly too, right??

D 'oh...was afraid of that, not sure. Call 'em up...see what they say. They may have another alternative....

No problem..>Dan. there just seems to be a lot of talk if you touch your motor, you can't run T6 pipes, not true. They just don't work on more aggressively ported motors...that's all. T5s work very well, too. I can't see T6's pulling 8 more HP than 5's...maybe a few, but not that many. You're going to have to steel wool factory finish pipes just about every time you get it home and wash it, or they'll get rusty quick.... Any kind of moisture will rust 'em up. You could always get them then get some hi temp exhaust paint and paint 'em black, PJ1 makes a good hi temp paint!

Call cascade innovations. Buy their Reed Stuffers....they're made for the 1 into 2 CVs. They're a few bucks a piece....it's what I use for my dual carb setup...work nice.