dajogejr

After personally seeing an NMotion 4 stroke run, I wouldn't call them to see what brand of oil dry they use in their shop. Sure, 30's will work on that bike, especially for tighter more technical racing. But, for open dune or drag racing, 33 or 35s are the key if you're sticking to gas...

Front Bumper sold pending payment, thanks TLong...

Dude...race him again with paddles in the sand. I let my buddy ride my 421 cub with holeshots on my 6 over arms in a field. He wasn't impressed....and it boosted his ego even more about being a close race with his N Motion/Falicon 564 kit in his 04 450R. We went to the dunes with paddles...needless to say, he was speechless when he rode my bike and it hooked...and it even shifted like shit and he was impressed. Get some paddles on, learn to launch, and that 4 poke might stay even the fist 10 feet, literally.... By the way, with that motor and domes you're already running race gas. If you have a timing plate, which I'd bet you do since you're at +6...max it out. It only measures up to +10 on the plate, but if you max it out it's about 11 or 12. You'll like it...promise.

Got these boots with the bike, haven't used them yet. Make offers shipped...

Nope.... I could use a cleaning, and even if you had the time to sand and polish it that baby would gleam. It is 100% straight, no cracks, dings, breaks, etc.

Shave your stock head .020 or .025. I use a NOSS head because I built a complete motor, and with the stroker/big bore I had, it was easier to get a dome cut to my needs than messing around with a stock head. PLus, I don't like cutting stock heads to fit orings....just no confidence in them. If you ride trails, cut your head, lighten your flywheel and get a timing plate and set it at +4. Those items right there will make a big difference in the way your bike runs, minimal investment... VForce 2s actually make a little more HP than the 3's. However, the 2's have to have the screws loctited in..or they could back out causing issues. 3's snap in the reeds....

NEVER change your oil to fuel ratio to compensate for jetting changes. 32:1 or 40:1 is fine, but figure which you want to run and stick with it. With no air box, those temps and elevation, you should be at or around a 340 main. You probably fouled it out because the low speed jetting...or pilot, air screw and/or needle aren't adjusted properly... To answer your question, the less premix you put in the gas, the richer the jetting becomes, but not by very much. Less oil in the gas allows it to pass through jets more quickly, therefore richening up the mixture.

And...Paddles still for sale, too. 10 row haulers on black label rims, no tears,rips, in great shape. 72" rollout. Holding air just as good as the last ride I had on 'em, end of October.... Make offer...

Going to be offing a bunch of stuff. Some of it I'm firm on, some of it make me an offer... All stuff is used as is and came off a 100% working bike. I'm going new motor, new J Arm lightened chassis, so...no need. PM or post here with any questions, No BS here... Ship next day after payment via Fed Ex Express saver, insurance or faster shipping is on you... PLEASE click on the image for a larger picture. +6 stock carrier swinger and carrier, year old bearings and seals. $200 Shipped FIRM. $175.00 Local Pickup Rear Holeshots XCR (6 ply) shaved with 48 Chisels in each tire. Picks are very, very sharp. 250 Shipped FIRM, 225.00 Local Pickup Front Stock Tires on rims, with cold cutter screws. $100 firm or $80 local pickup Front A Arms ONLY, both sides upper and lower with good ball joints. Tie rod ends, tie rods, shocks, brakes and spindles not included. Make offer shipped or local pickup. Paint on underside scratched from normal use. Front aluminum bumper....make offer: Rear Grab bar, had buddy weld a 1/4 inch piece of aluminum for a flag mount, SOLID!!! Make offer. Front and Rear Holeshot XCRs on factory gold rims. Front rims are flipped for the offset. Inside plugged, outside with valve stem. Hold air perfect, no leaks. Better than 80 or 85% tread left. Make offer shipped.

Normally they like a fatter pilot, but, make sure you remove the snorkel at least. You should be able to turn the air screws .5 to 1.0 turns out and get it to run better. If it still doesn't run better at .5 turns out, get bigger pilots as said.... You should feel more power EVERYWHERE with fatties over stock, except for just off idle, where...if you're gonna spend your time at idle to 1/8 throttle, a banshee is not the right bike for you..

I woke up still buzzed from night, all the inspiration I needed...LOL

I have seen a few year old plastic impeller strip itself out on the shaft, I've seen them deteriorate, etc. That's why billet is the way to go. Dan, maybe you misunderstood Mr. Hull...but, the shafts are the same....just the impeller is diff. OH well, I got one, no issues...

You can use a CUB anywhere. You can use a cub to mow the grass You can use a cub to kick some ass You can use a cub to get some food You can use a cub to roost friends (rude) You can use a cub to ride the trail You can use a cub to chase some tail You can use a cub to hit the store You can use a cub to get that whore You can use a cub for everything can't you see So go out and buy 2, 1 for you, 1 for me. Any questions?

TORS removal doesn't require a jetting change... No air box lid is one maybe two main sizes...so, 200 to 220 due to your elevation. 270 to 290's once you get pipes...

My 10 mil is in mid build stages. Yet to be run...going bigger from a 4 mil to a 10 mil. I run 300ft sand drags in Clarksville, MI. I'll be running a stock cut frame and alky, and I'm 245lbs...so by no means a lightweight. Build a similar bike, show me times slips, and I'll show you mine. Here is what you said: I raced a stock banshee and a raptor and i won on a stock banshee an raced him on a piped 400ex and beat him and hes a pretty good rider so you mustive been drunk or pretty dumb I'd ask you to drive to MI to race, but...since you can barely read, write and/or use punctuation or spell, I think a map would be pointless for you. Start with hooked on phonics...and gradually (that's a big word that means slowly) work your way up to drag racing for dummies. I don't know it all, far from it. But, I stand by my previous statement. A box stock banshee is the slowest of the three bikes in question. Raptor, YFZ and Banshee. Again....where did this 400EX fit into the equation? Oh...just you babbling, again. Stop wasting my time...

Sure thing there turbo... Yeah, I'd be dumb if I believed you. Where did I say a stock banshee wouldn't beat a 400EX? I said bone stock, out of the box, it would get beat by a new 450 YFZ or box stock raptor.... Maybe you should take a break from your drag racing career (on a stock bike) and learn to read, comprehend and understand....

For that price, even if it needs a fresh top end, as long as it's not trashed, that's a helluva good deal. That is one clean looking bike.... Wish I had the extra cabbage, I'd make a few hundo on that for sure...

How much memory do you have in your system, and what Operating System are you running? XP, 2000, 98?

Toybreaker, that makes 100% perfect since. Some guys can mill .015 off and need to run a little race gas, some can mill off .030 and run pump. I'd bet the majority of guys that get them milled: a. Don't bother to cc the head, before or after and b. Don't bother checking squish when putting it back together. That is priceless info from experience right there...kudos to you... --Daj...

We'll sick Chase on their asses...

I am interested...and I have upper and lower A Arms off my 96. Joints in good shape, could probably use paint. I'm going to a J arm frame, so...I no longer need 'em. Don, PM me if you'd like pics, they're sitting in my garage with tires, spindles, rotors and Marvins still attached. Let me know if you'd like to wheel and deal. I'm sure you'd like cash...and I'm willing to deal...let me know. Dave

Do YOU even know the meaning of trail/Dune?? :yelrotflmao:

Makes me sick you haven't sold this bike, either....maybe it's just that time of year, Christmas, etc. With tax refunds coming back...I'd bump this a few more times in a month or so. Very nice bike and a good price!!!

My buddy has been talking about selling his 98. He bought it last year, and it had original everything, I'm talking original hand grips, original air filter, etc. I've done all the work since. It's got black T5s, Tors removed and idle kit installed, K&N Pod filters, jetted by me, Spyder grips and Razr2 tires all the way around. A brand new clutch with two or three days of rides on it. Also has the cobra clamp on sparky's for our trails/dunes. Great running little bike! He rode it two weekends up north in UP trails...and he's ready to sell it cause he's more into sledding. How much are you looking to spend? He lives in Warren, MI.... When he bought the bike early last year, it had 125PSI in each cylinder, this bike was literally used probably a few hours when he bought it...the stock hand grips weren't even worn. Let me know if you're serious....it's a pretty clean bike that runs well. (Although, I'm sure it could use a jetting change now that our temps have dropped a bit...)

I ran 35PWks on mine and loved it. I don't think I'd spend the money without seeing how the PJs run on it first though... If you're getting a cub, gas mileage/usage really isn't going to be a concern. It's going to drink it...period.