dajogejr

Yep...those were run for too long.

I should have a set very soon for my 10 mil. The best part is this will really be a chance for Gary to showcase his product. I'm not trying to toot my horn, I'm only saying this is the 4th year this motor has been together, and it is very, very consistent. I know what it runs at each track, with each rider, at every temp, tire pressure, gearing, etc. Thousands of passes get you that comfortable. I have a Kevin Herr ported 10 mil cub. There are a TON of 10 mil cubs where I ride...from stock cut chassis like mine to full drag chassis. While I'm not expecting to shave tenths off my bike (I only run 300 foot and my bike is in VERY good tune), I will be able to tell the difference. (Not saying this 421 Brad is talking about is in bad tune, I'm only saying I know my bike and it's got a LOT of passes on it...) And to be fair, my next race I will make my first 3-4 runs with my current pipes, the ones I've had for a few years now. Then I'll make some passes with the Snipers. I would say Brad you guys need to play with timing then gearing on that bike. To turn a half a second difference but stay within 1-2 MPH of the slowest to fastest pass, it has more in it. I know when I was playing with my timing I hit a wall to where it would ET the same but it started losing 2-3 MPH...so I knew to back it off. Our good running 4 mil cubs here go 72 to 78 MPH and that's with paddles and 200 feet less track to work with...

You need an extra 1/2 or so of clearance from a stock to aftermarket cover. If you don't have that extra 1/2 inch, then no. Maybe you should opt for an under cover sligngshot type lockup.

Yep...burn it up, but next time get cash from your buddy...lol. As said, you won't get any performance increase, if anything...your motor might suffer a little performance. It burns slower and it could feel a little doggy or lazy...

bansheeboy44, by no means am I the expert, I can only base my thoughts and practices on my own experiences. Kickstart...amen. Couple the marketing with the "Anyone with a pulse" is a dealer mentality....and you get scamsoil....

Since Mike @ Lakes motorsports ported your motor why don't you ask HIM what carbs will work for your setup?

For my methanol bike, 28:1 with SuperTechniplate. I used to use Benoil until we went ice racing, Benoil is not meant for colder applications as it'll separate from the fuel. I switched to Super Tech and just never switched back. For my purge gas/oil I use supertechniplate OR Klotz Uplon Lube @ 20:1, and I use regular fuel (87 octane) I can tell you it is critical to use the a methanol compatible two stroke oil with your purge fuel because if not, it will gum up your carb like no tomorrow and leave a nice film.. For pump gas bikes I like Klotz R50, Supertechniplate or Maxima Super M mixed at 32:1. For race fuel bikes I like the same oil, mixed at 40:1. I used to use Golden Spectro in the day too, but...it comes in a 12 ounce bottle or something funny like that where most oil comes in 16 or 32 oz bottles. I never really had an issue with it. I've had to run to Walmart, Kmart or the local gas station in a pinch and get their cheapo, no name two stroke oil (for gas bikes, NOT methanol bikes) and I ran their oil without issues.

Do me a favor.. Ask these skilled engineers who have all this research, tools and knowledge at their disposal why they can't make an oil that mixes with methanol. Please reply when you have a good, solid answer for that one. I realize NHRA top fuel, Nascar Cup cars and Formula 1 is a stretch for backyard marketing, but methanol? C'mon...lots of common joes run it. They can't even make an oil that mixes with it?

Here's how I'm going to leave this. A. 100% total coincidence. B. You're full of Shit. "Actually in my drag car we switch from Valvoline oil from engine to rear end to Ams oil and the car went 3mph and 2 tenths faster in the quarter then it ever has in its life time. coinsidence??.. i think not..." If you put that in English I might give you a second thought. I had to read that about 4 times and I'm still not sure what you're talking about. I've used all kinds of different oil in big motors, small motors, one, two, three and four lung motors. Stock cars and cars we built with turbo, NOS, etc. Two stroke or four...you're 100% full of it if you think the oil was at fault for carbon, deposits, etc. Period. Argue that till you're blue in the face...I really don't care. Is it bad oil? No. Is it the best? No. Period....you can drink their cool aide all you want...but that's all it is. Marketing, so called "dealer pricing" and that's it. Show me a NASCAR cup team, Formula 1 team or an NHRA Top Fuel team that runs it. Thank you...

Well said... Amsoil has never proved anything to me burning with fuel or used in the transmission that any other oil can't do. If you're getting fouled plugs or carbon build up, it's one of two things...or a combo of them. The motor is in poor tune or poor shape. That's it. Type of oil is rarely a problem, lack of it sure is though. Tests were done to prove more oil equals more HP, all the way up to 16:1, with negligible results or gains after that. Kinda makes you wonder what the amsoil folks are smoking (or not smoking....) with their 50:1 and 100:1 recommendations for their products. I like Klotz. Never failed me in a gas or alky motor, and like fouledout said, you can get it fairly easily and it's reasonably priced. For my trans, I use whatever ATF Type F the store has, cheaper is better!!

At this point in time, you're wasting money on straight cuts unless you have everything else. Stock clutch will hold that motor with good springs in it...however, you need to start looking at a lockup and override before I'd worry about straight cuts for that small of a motor. No way in hell would I get an 8 plate for that...unless you were planning on putting a healthy shot of NOS to it.

I personally wouldn't waste the money on a Dyna Ignition just yet, especially if your goal is top speed MPH. First you need power, then you need tire and gearing. Second...what is your budget. Third, who did the porting and what kind of power is it. FMF fatty are not going to rev as far as other pipes...but you need to build a combo that works with each component. I say drop a 4 mil crank, 421 cub cylinder, pistons, etc., and a lockup clutch with a trail cut trans, (You'll need 6th to get to 100MPH easier) then you can worry about the silly stuff like chassis, etc.,

12O Clock...not trying to be a smart ass, so don't take it this way. Do a little research on Dean Sundahl. He was the king of Baja 500 and long off road races back in his day (late 80's early 90s) You could probably ride that bike for hours and run over all kinds of shit and not feel it. It's got nearly 3X the travel of stock suspension and it's designed to be blistered at 90MPH for hours on end. http://atv.off-road.com/atv/race/profile-dean-sundahl-25093.html

Good luck with the 6 months/50 posts. I am 100% all for it. Gonna cause you mods headaches and piss people off more than help. We've tried...believe me. I think ATVDR is 10 posts minimum, premium member or have a known member vouch for you. You have to remember, some people don't post, just read. I'm all for protecting the site's members... Better research should be done by both parties, IMO...and if a deal looks too good to be true, it normally is.

Better yet, if you're getting a timing plate get rid of that key and let the plate do all your timing. Set it at 4 to start and go from there.

Magnum all the way. I might replace mine after this year because it's been in use for over 5 years and I feel bad for all the abuse it takes. Yes, it comes with everything you need to install it including back plate, set screws and cushions. You just have to drill the rivets out of the factory basket to get the gear off.

Thanks for providing my entertainment for the morning gents...

A stroked and ported banshee done half ass should pull more gear than that... with a 12 tooth up front the first two gears would be 100% worthless. You have an issue somewhere else... Could be jetting, could be mechanical or it could be wiring. With 12 up front you should be able to go through the first 4 gears before the tires stop spinning... I know MSD makes nice stuff, but maybe it's not setup right, etc. You should be able to roll stock gearing (14/41 or 14/42) and launch 2nd NO problem. I'd maybe try upping the jets as said and putting stock ignition back on.

I can tell you I'm not willing to "unsync" my carbs to test that out...LOL. Interesting and impressive resume. There is a ton of math put into these machines people don't think about. On the other side of that coin...and you mentioned, sometimes math doesn't equate to real world experience. I can appreciate both! That being said....it's possible mine are out of sync a hair now. I don't know if I borrowed my sync tool to someone and never got it back or if it's in the deepest, darkest corner of my garage and I just can't find it.... It has been a while since I've done mine up to be honest.

Absolutely right B, but...they not only sell them, they keep them on the shelves and put them in motors. They have a better "pulse" of the real world application than WCR does in my humble opinion. Plus...the three I've mentioned have stellar service records with their customers...

I would love to have a Robinson. However...I wouldn't love to fit that bill. Last I checked/heard...a 1-6 from him in billet is 2500 or so, using the same gear ratios as a banshee. For that price, I can keep 6 or so full trannies and forks as spares... I understand 100% how tough they are and certain builds need a billet tranny, all I'm saying is I don't...yet. LOL. Sleeper... I've heard of issues with Robinson's smoking forks quickly. 1. Have you heard of/seen this and 2. Is he/you working with billet forks? I know someone on ebay is making billet forks as is Mull Engineering. Again, for me personally, this falls under I sure would like to have hit...but I can't stomach the bill AND my particular motor/application doesn't need it yet.

Incorrect jetting, wrong spark plug or oil mixed at 10:1 will foul plugs. Otherwise, it's never the type of oil you're using...unless it's not 2 stroke premix oil.

I agree...hit up Chariot. Site sponsor...and he makes some nice stuff. Says here he has other intake boot sizes available. He's always been quick to answer a PM from me! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Cheetah-Billet-Intakes-VForce-3-Chariot-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ250420337185QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

That's a great post AK. Folks need to keep in mind, two things... One, each cylinder might not be 100% the same as other (port specs, wear, etc.) and Two, one carb might not be the 100% exact same as the other. That's why I've recently learned to tune carbs per cylinder instead of making it an exact copy of the other carb. I'm not talking leaps and bounds difference, but just enough to make a small difference. The reason the sync tool is so nice is because it mimics what the carb is doing per cylinder, sucking in air and fuel. That is the carb's job...supply air and fuel. Get that the same first then you can fine tune jetting...

Kevin Herr (HJR), Jeff W. (FAST) and Andy (M&M) all sell override transmissions and have sold a lot of them. And they are all site sponsors. Hit them up and talk to them. I do believe Andy is out of town for a wedding right now for a few days, but I believe you can PM him and he'll get it on his phone and can respond.