dajogejr

Guys...he's been a member since May of 2007. Not exactly what I'd call someone new....or new to the game.

That thing is an abortion that should've been flushed...

Self promote much?

If you're gonna spray, you should probably go with cubs. You're not hitting the bottle in any trails I've seen...that a cub souldn't do better with anyways. These, IMO, are bolt on power instead of the wait and grinding on stock cylinders. I'm fence sitting on that statement Andy...sure you make a few hundred dollars on a port job (obviously, type of porting dictates the amount of $$) but if you take the money you collect vs. the hours you spend, I bet it is probably a wash compared to putting a cylinder and other needed parts in a box and shipping them with your margin. I think where these will shine is clean them up, bolt them on and use 'em. The only other problem folks might come across is how they're going to shift an 80HP bike on a stock tranny and clutch.

These cylinders have lower, less aggressive port timings than a cub, hence the more usable power in lower RPMs...but can breathe well enough to rev out and make good power. I think stock carb to 33PWK with T5, CPI and probably Pro Circuit pipes would be a good test. Andy, I'd bet someone with Pro Circuits would be happy to let you borrow a set if you compensated them for shipping and/or a set of serval cylinders when you're ready to sell them....

Apparently, I'm not the only one. LOL. Jeff... Your clutch is the bomb, period. Special on that if you can. Maybe put the ultimate clutch upgrade/refresh deal. Come up with a magnum basket, OEM inner and outer and your clutch with springs as a package deal. 10% off Cool Head with a dome purchase. Free FAST Engraving, of course. Take 5-10% off dealer OEM Items like washers, bearings, etc. A lot of people don't know you carry chains in bulk instead of by link. How about a special on chains?

How about you puff, puff...give and stop bogarting whatever you're smoking.... LOL

The same way you're selling it JD...buy/find it used. Good luck, it's a nice piece. Again, I think they were around 400 new...but I'm not sure.

Joe, I KNOW it has springs in the caliper to retract the pistons so there is zero drag. I'm pretty sure it is a dual piston setup, one on each side vs. the single piston on a stock banshee. And of course, it looks pretty damned cool..

JD... If offrdbug wants it please sell it to him. It falls under the "want" column for me, not the need!! Don't hold it for me homie!

I got 'em at home. 48 chisels per tire I believe. One is pulled out...but the tubes hold air no problem. Fronts are stock banshee tires with a lot of cold cutters in them. Since Frank ate shit on my bike back in 2008, I have no desire to hit the ice. I got these from Tommy and I used them 2-3 times... I'll get pics from home later.

Unless you're at 5000 feet, I'd steer clear of 16cc domes. As said, you're asking for trouble. Is your motor ported? What is your timing at? Just throwing more compression at a motor is like putting duct tape over a radiator hose and hoping it will work. Chances are you'll have more problems.

Damn I'd love to have this JD... Any chance I have anything in trade you'd like? I got a set of ice tires, front and rear I could trade you plus cash?

The only time I've had them be this nasty is if the threads on the flywheel were questionable. In those instances...you just weld a puller on and remove it. Sure you trashed a flywheel and puller, but you gotta ride, right? LOL.

Those look like normal forks to me.

The OE RZ forks had a roller on them instead of dowel looking pins. I believe if they are truly original factory RZ forks you'll need the RZ Drum. That being said...if they're replacement RZ forks, yes, I'm pretty sure they'll work. To be honest....you can get GOOD used shift forks for cheap, just another alternative.

To be honest Joe, I'm running a drag bike and so is Brad. We're going to be bad comparisons for you....We spend a few seconds at WOT, that's it. Gonna need some inframe duner type riders to test some for you! Although, CP is putting out that serval cylinder pretty soon...I bet that would make a stout duner!

Put your clutch kit on sale...I need one!!

I could not disagree with you any more in that statement. I ran 39PWKs, have 41.3 Lectrons now...and if I sold my bike I would really, really think about buying a set of PWKs just so I could keep these carbs. I would say most people that give up on them have the wrong needle or don't take the time to learn how to tune them. To the OP...revving clean and revving lean are two different things. I'd like to see the alky plugs after a couple passes on each carb. On a 4 mil cub, it will handle 39PWKs on gas or alky all day long. On a stock cylinder, stock stroke without triple exhaust, Dan Hull sets up 34PJs without a power jet on them....

Like anything else...disassembly is the easy part. Getting everything to line up (trans, clips, etc.) is a real PITA.... When you're hours from home and/or money is on the line, you gotta do what you gotta do...but the traditional by all means is much easier...

Smaller motors, especially non-triple port motors, lack the intake signal to effectively pull fuel out of the larger carbs. As said, you're flowing much more alky than you would be gas, 2:1 as a matter of fact. That's why the larger carbs work ok on small motors. stroking, I'd bet the 37s mikunis were jetted cleaner for that particular motor than the 39s were. I doubt you'd see too much of a difference between the two, properly tuned. Maybe 1-3 HP...

Yes it can be done. The ONLY time I'd do that is if I were stuck on a trip or at the track and had to get it back together to ride. You're home, make it easy on yourself and split it the normal way. You're only saving a few bucks on gaskets, etc., to do it right.

That makes a little more sense. Fix your ignition issue...NO reason you should have to gap your plugs at .021 on a gas motor.

You're either Hella fat on the jetting or you have a bad crank seal. How does the other side look?

To much time. Warm the bike up on old plugs. Put in new plugs, go WOT from 1-6 and at the end of 6th, pull the clutch in and turn the bike off. Coast to a stop. Pull the plugs and put the old ones back in... Those plugs have a lot of fuel on them and after looking at it again, that is one thick, black smoke ring. What kind of fuel, oil and at what mixture are you running it at? Was that the left or right side plug, by the way (stator side or clutch side)?