dajogejr

I'm far from upset. And I admit when I'm wrong, when I'm actually wrong. It happens. It seems being wrong...and being wrong in YOUR mind are two totally different things. So...I humbly admit I am wrong in your mind. I will seek all my information going forward with all my builds through you. I'd appreciate if you could run my configurations through your extensive contact list and add in your own personal experience...and let me know what you come up with. My accomplishments at the track? They mean nothing. I'm sure with your knowledge and experience I could easily shave a full second off my 300 foot times, make all those guys who don't have your knowledge (you know, all the top builders in the country) sorry they didn't take your word as gold either. I will personally tell them they are wasting their time...they could just consult you for all the answers. We should all be so lucky. I will furthermore inform all the voters (or the majority of them, over 70% last I checked on this thread) they are misguided and wrong. I will try to convince them you are the light at the end of the tunnel, you hold all the knowledge...and questioning your reasoning and seasoned experience would just be wrong. On a final note...I fully agree with your last sentence about who America voted into office. Maybe he could come to you for advice too. I bet you're just as seasoned at government as you are engine building/tuning. SLORYDER for President 2012...you heard it here first.

Sure thing buddy...you're definitely ahead now. The post/vote you put up clearly shows that, along with every other poster in here disagreeing with you. You're so far ahead, it's like you're in your own world and your own race... Wait...you are. Now you're just sour because you've been repeatedly called out. You can keep posting if you'd like and prove us all right....we've got time, and still need the laughs.

What I stated is you can't just shave a stock head down to .035 squish and have it run. IT WILL DESTROY THE MOTOR. What he said is you have to rechamber the head, which I agree... I won't run that tight of squish on my motor or any other motor for that matter unless it's a stock stroke and very short track. Still, I'd rather put more timing to it. So...you're still wrong, you're still quoting others knowledge without your own real world knowledge and as said...read his notes on that page. If you're so adamant about taking his knowlege as gold and not taking into account what the large majority of other posters here are telling you...why are you wasting your time here? Please...by all means...share your first hand, extensive and lengthy knowledge with all of the members of MacDizzy's forum. It seems like you came here to shit stir. And it's not working...you're only making yourself look bad. I'm trying to keep this civil without name calling or personal insults...and I tried not to post here any more... But I can only listen and read ignorance for so long. I'm about to buy stock in Yamaha for all the heads you'll have to purchase and head gaskets to go with them to fine tune your stable of high performance bikes... Give it up already....please.

I would take his opinion at face value any day of the week and twice on Sundays. And he pretty much nailed what we've been telling you...for one, for two...I don't think he's going to agree with you on just milling off .035 and using different thickness base gaskets to achieve squish. I do feel advice you've given in this thread, in it's own partial nature, could and would damage an engine. He is right, for pump gas it'll work just fine taking a little off. He flat out said they mill theirs .090 AND rework the chamber/squish band. Which...is what we've been saying. Again...I don't see you asking him or him backing up your statement of just taking off .035 and using different base gaskets. I believe that would fall under his advice for higher compression motors?

Apparently you haven't worked on enough motors as said and don't get what we're trying to point out. If you have to ask him and clear your ideas through him...then pass them off as your discussions and thoughts, you're really not doing anything. And although I've never met or spoken to Macdizzy, his reputation is pretty damned good. I think he'd agree with the general statements that you're making as a bad path to go down. Ask him if he owns a banshee..and if he has a cool head or a stocker...and if he carries around two or three stock heads and different thicknesses of head gaskets. I look forward to his answer. Once again, you're taking one small part, one measurement...and making it sound like the be all/end all. Honestly, I'm done with this thread. You guys have fun....the definition of insanity is doing (or saying) the same thing and expecting different results....

Research is the right place to start. By dodging my direct questions and not answering them tells me you don't have the practical experience. That's all I needed to know... Carry on.

My Crystal ball says yes...it will be worth it. Worst comes to worse..Shayne, I'm only 40 minutes away right off the freeway. If you need to crash at my crib, you're always more than welcome.

I'm gonna yank this rookie's chain a little... I'm gonna put him into the wall... LOL. Ready to go, loading up at Lunch, hitting Ann Arbor around 1...and should be at the fair grounds around 4 or so... Call you when I'm there guys....

Slo.. Do me a favor. Let's find out credibility. How many motors have you built. How many motors have you ported. How many bikes have you tuned, either at the dunes, the trails, your garage, etc. How many bikes have you shaved the head on? How many have you used cool heads? How many different dome and or stock shaved head configurations have you personally done, tested and run on your own equipment? Going for a ride or riding your buddies bike does not count. What is your personal background and personal experience with different brands of cool heads, different dome configurations for different bore motors, different stroke motors, different ported motors. When you can answer all of that with great convincing, we will take you more seriously. Until then, IMO...you're pissing in the wind.

As I said before, he's just taking way too many things for granted for my taste. Brandon is a great guy, Bob @RB Porting is a great guy...and I ran a chambered, cut and Oring'd stock head on my 10 mil cub for a little while. It can be done...a lot can be done with a stock head. But it's not just as simple as take a little off...yeah, you're good. More to it than that.

From reading your posts I think you should start your own business...milling stock banshee heads. Since you've put complete thought into everything...it sounds like a real money maker. You're stuck on .068 as factory squish. You believe .035 is widely accepted as being safe on a banshee. You realize there "may be" other factors like MSV, squish band width, etc. but you don't think milling it down .035 will cause any issues based on your experience....but you never MEASURED any of that other than just the squish. Please stop. You're going to steer someone down a wrong path and cause them an expensive repair bill. You're talking about just enough to be dangerous in this thread. If you and your buddies want to run a stock head for the rest of your life because you believe in it...fine. So be it. It's not like aftermarket heads are in the same category as a boost bottle (you're running one...aren't you...lol. J/K) In reading your post about 3 times, to make sure I didn't miss something, you have entirely too many "about" and "should be" in your post. If we took your post to heart, we'd be a bunch of machinists using a tape measure to do our job. It's not that simple. If it was, Walmart would mill stock heads.

Well put Brandon, especially about the combustion inefficiencies and using spark (and sometimes fuel) to compensate that.

You're taking a part of what I said out of context, here is the whole thing pertaining to: If you want to spend a few bucks, get your stocker milled .010 to .020 (without changing the squish angle/combustion area) yes, it's a cheap bump in power...by all means. But you're limited to what you can do with a stocker, one cut you're done. I said .010 to .020 for cheap and a bump in power. Obviously, with any mod, you should check your work. That would mean after machining, cc the dome properly, check squish...etc. Generally...you could probably cut off .010 to .020 and you'd be ok without changing anything other than maybe jetting (more compression = more heat, hence the need for more fuel) You'll never catch me running .035 of squish on any banshee based motor. I don't care if it's 64mm stock bore or a 84mm big bore/aftermarket cylinder. I absolutely think .035 of squish and race fuel alone could cause problems. With a looser squish, you can run a slightly larger band (greater % of bore) without running into issues. Tighten up that squish without modifying the squish band...you'd be in trouble. I'm with you on some of your thinking, however, it's just my believe you're leaving too many things to chance and for granted. Just my personal belief..that's all. I'm sure someone somewhere built a motor with .020 squish and 75% of the bore squish band with 25:1 UCCR and it smoked everything at the track....but that guy rides with the Lochness monster and has beers with peanut butter and pickle sandwiches with Elvis...

Please take a moment and describe to our viewing members what squish does for MSV? Also...you have two blanket statements there that don't work. Not all stock heads will give you .068 (roughly, I get that) of squish. What is the squish band, by the way? I've seen stock heads cc as much as 24 or 25 cc and as little as 23. Who said .035 is optimum, and for what timing, what fuel, what piston? What if someone is running a big bore blaster piston with a different dome angle? Might be problems there. While your squish band might be ok with a larger clearance, it might not be if you ONLY cut down the squish and don't change dome angles, suish band, etc. Here's what you've done. You've taken one measurement out of about 10 others/factors you need to make an engine run right. You've based all your posts off that one measurement. As anyone, (including Brandon...sorry you got drug into this will tell you...there's more to performance and building an engine than just a number. If that was the case...you could base fuel octane requirement on Cranking PSI. Anyone with half a brain will tell you compression ratio, NOT cranking PSI will dictate the need for octane.... You have about 1/10 of the story/theory in your statement. I'm not trying to be a dick...far from it. I'm trying to save a member from going and ONLY shaving their head, taking nothing else into consideration...and blowing up a perfectly good motor to save a few bucks to gain some HP.

Precisely how I feel.... I have run two different types of cool heads AND a cut stocker on both of my cub motors (first 4 now 10 mil) Since you can throw out the theory "slap a thicker head gasket in there"...you'd have to have 2 different heads to give you two different power characteristics. Once you have the cool head, you're limited only by dome choice. You can interchange the domes all the way up to 68mm bore...(I know you can go bigger, but that's too thin for my taste) You don't have to send anything out to be machined, you have the luxury of better sealing Orings, etc. Take the price of a set of domes vs the price of a stock head, having it machined, etc. They'll equal out. But..once the head is cut, you're stuck with it. You can just swap domes. I ran a stocker cut and Oringed. It was still a PITA to get it to seal. Plus...we all know we like a little trick looking parts on our bike. If you want to spend a few bucks, get your stocker milled .010 to .020 (without changing the squish angle/combustion area) yes, it's a cheap bump in power...by all means. But you're limited to what you can do with a stocker, one cut you're done.

Should be fun fo sho!!! I'm hoping I can be out there early...I have a job to do in Ann Arbor that day, trying to tie them together! Just gonna come home for lunch, pack up and head out! Joe, anywhere special we gotta park?

I hope you have a billet second gear...or it's gonna be a short trip. Those motors don't pull the RPM your cub did, you're really going to want a 1-5 with a billet 2nd.

It's too bad at Planet Sand races they don't care about OEM chassis...just cc size. But what do I know?

As well as reading and comprehension for you....chill out.

ummm...who is knocking who dco? Did you not type this first? Slick move bro... I'm glad your extensive experience is the deciding factor...never mine the fact fouledout has had his motor for a few years both at the track and dunes....we'll just go on what you think is best.... Regardless of fouledout and sheefreak being friends of mine, before you make a statement judging someone's knowledge...you might want to find out who they are, what they ride and what they know.

His 14 DM must be way faster than yours Shayne...that's why you don't know what you're talking about...

with 14 extremes in a 74 rollout my 10 mil cub, stock frame, 16/47 gearing with my 250lb ass it will come up at will. 12 over arm would be a waste of time. Yep...gear it up and you should be ok...but when it hooks lookout.

18mm DM in stock chassis is going to be a handful for sure. I'd run a 14 over arm and start with the 14 paddles but I think you're going to blow them off the rim, so give it gear, like 16/42 or so. I know you're running straight cuts, but stock ratio?

Supertechniplate is 20% castor oil. It's one of the 4 main oils you'll see the alky crowd run (Super techniplate, Benoil, Maxima 927 and Redline) SuperT stays mixed in Methanol longer. For gas motors, I like R50 myself. Just don't ever mix it with methanol....learned the hard way on that one by mistake using it as my purge oil for gas premix...LOL. Run it at whatever you want. I prefer 32:1 for pump gas motors and 40:1 for race fuel motors.

Joe.. I'm in. Going to give you a call over the weekend to get the where, etc. I can probably be there by 6ish or so. Count me in unless it's raining like a mofo.