dajogejr

TTT

60 HP on an HRC and oxegenated fuel... That guys been sniffing too much exhaust...keep dreaming...

Yeah, I can't wait for the 75th anniversary....

I'm pretty sure I know of two Raptors that would more than give you a run...Dan... Once Newtz and Brady bring theirs out....

Funny you should mention that... I have the prodesign shifter, it's aluminum...and I'm going to get a chromed stocker... It's a longer lever...and it just flexes too much to my liking. I say stock stuff Chrome is the way to go....

I still like the original and the 04 to 06 black special editions....

Please...please do not buy a cub for track and trail, general duning and hardly any drag racing....you'll be very dissapointed. However, if you're gonna build a bike that will be strictly a dune/drag racer...cub is the cheap way to go.. Keep in mind, you'll need the following: Aftermarket head with domes cut for the motor, or a stocker cut and Oringed for it. Better clutch I suggest a lockout and dunable override as well.... bigger intakes and carbs free flowing pipes (CPI, Shearer, etc.) You already mentioned longer swinger Stiffer suspension longer chain, longer brake line, etc. I've said time and time again...stock tranny and stock clutch are worthless on a 4 mil cub, even on gas....it's a waste of a good motor... Do a search on cub, it's been covered a million times...but I'd recommend a builder that supports the site...

Yaba Daba Doo...

Did he ask to play with your chimp, Bubbles, Mr. Jackson? :yelrotflmao:

Black hand built one out each side hand built shearer coned pipes. Pipes are flawless, no dings scratches, etc. A few scuffs on the end of the silencer due to slip on spark arrestor use for the dunes. These pipes look nearly new.. I went to stamped, Chrome, two out one side for cosmetic reasons...so these must go. I will post up pictures later...they are boxed and ready to go. 400 shipped, or 375 local pickup, I'm in the metro detroit area. I ship via Fed Ex with tracking number, and will ship as soon as I get payment. Papal add 3%.

I've never rode a banshee with steel braided but I have upgraded a street bike years ago...and it was a HUGE difference...just steel braided lines, nothing else...

I'll PM you....

Gotcha.... Your track doesn't allow methanol, does it Brad? Or is it the class you run in? It's a whole new ball game, that's for sure...I just wasted a piston learning myself, a lot of others have made much more expensive mistakes than that...

I have an alky drag cub, and went from my Dyna back to stock... Stock curves on a Dyna can burn out an alky drag motor....believe it or not... Drag motors notoriously have no bottom end, very little if any middle....timing helps bring some of that back...but there are a ton of other factors... For the 500 bucks it's gonna cost you to get a dyna, program software and cable (taking into consideration you have a laptop to use it with @ the dyno) and dyno run time....you can get more performance from a timing plate and a port job, especially on stock cylinders... But...when every HP is critical...they can shine... I agree with you...and there are a TON of top drag race guys that still use OEM CDI and Coils...

Don't be so sure about that number... It all depends on how long and how much effort you want to put into tuning the motor on a dyno and playing with curves. Keep in mind, with a plate it's a static curve increase throughout the RPM range...a dyna can give you a good initial advance...the retard one the RPMs get higher for overrev... If you have the time and money...they're worth it. If you're just gonna slap it on and leave as is...no, use stock and the plate...

Yep...sitting in a box, waiting... I just got my new Chrome Shearers yesterday, 2 out one side...waiting for 8 weeks. Need to off these to rebuild the top and "a few other things" as well...

Ahh...got it. Might be best to check with him on jetting...he knows what his motors like for fuel better than anyone...

I've got out of frame Shearers up for sale....need to off them quickly....to pay for a new motor....

I think you'll be ok with .120 dumps, .118 mains and 52 or 55 pilots. Powerjets all the way out for starters. That's a guess....but should be safe... By the way, do you know what your squish and compression ratio is at? As well as timing, what is it??

Do you have a power coated frame by any chance? ALWAYS a good idea, paint or powder coat, to sand or file down a non-viewable area to get a good chassis ground. I've got two, one for the ignition and one for the kill, my coil wires (Nology Hot Wires) also have ground straps leading to the head....

NO...they run real good lean...for a short time.

Whatever you can afford. Ball point pen springs are better than stock...LOL.. Works up front and revalved rear if you're on a budget, then look at Elkas or TCS from there. Then...of course, is wider and offset A Arms, etc. You can spend a little or a TON real quick when it comes to suspension!!!

I just called....to say.... John likes buttplugs.

I may have my wires crossed...but from my understanding there will no longer be a production chrome...show type only. I've seen older production chrome...yeah, it's not impressive at all...you really notice it around the bends and such...

Larger pilot, drill the dump, drill a few main ranging in size from the same as the dump to .001 to .005 smaller...drill the bell and epoxy/JBWeld the power jet in place. Since you have oversized bowls, there is no overflow tube...just use the barb on that. Measure the diameter of the PJ where it will mount on the carb, used that size drill...you want a tight fit. I couldn't tell you what size mains/dumps to use without knowing what kind of motor, etc. Remember, you can always drill the dump tube bigger, but it can't be replaced. Too big...and the carb is trashed for your use...