dajogejr

I've ridden and tuned more piped, air filter'd and jetted banshees then you...for a long time. Unless yamaha made some big changes from 87 to uh...now, I'm pretty sure I know what that feels like. Sorry MJ...obviously I'm not comparing my drag bike to a piped banshee. Don't think I forgot how one runs or feels like, though....

Shhh...you mean stock stroke.... :biggrin: While I still don't agree with the whole secret build thing, I get it...I understand....sort of. As long as you're honest with what you have to a potential buyer via PM or Email or Phone...nothing wrong with that. The only other McCoy motor I've seen personally run is fouledout421's 4 mil. It is very impressive...this motor will make someone a nice mil. Good luck on the sale!!!

Did not know that...very interesting, thank you! I have to remember....these new generation consoles have hard drives in them as well.... I would bet any port forwarding, etc., would have to be still setup in the router. If they left ports open by default it would be a liability on their end. The main feature of this device is to easily give traffic priority for the gaming system...

Again, not trying to sound like an ass...don't take it that way. Why do you need to setup port forwarding on a router to game? The only reason I can think of is if you are actually hosting a gaming server...is this the case? If you have a PC based server, I could see it. I'd be surprised if a console had that capacity.... QOS would be easy to setup. Assign the Console a static IP outside the dynamic IP range given by default by the router, tell the router to assign priority to that statically assigned IP...

Not trying to sound like a smart ass....but what are you hoping to gain/accomplish by using this? It looks like all it does is give gaming the priority in your network when it's turned on. Any router with QOS (Quality of service) built in can do that.... Any good broadband router should have to be programmed with port forwarding and setup secure....

I use a rule of thumb of 1 main jet for 1000 to 1200 feet, obviously each bike is different. I'd say you're damn near dead on... Don't forget, at that much higher of an altitude, your compression will be less too...less out of the hole. If you have a timing plate, bump it a degree or to for some help.

Good kill story!!! Thost 4 pokes are hard as all hell to get out of the whole...for sure. They just hug the ground and hook.

A piped only shee should lose to a 700 Raptor by more than a bike in 300 foot. You either ride very well and the 700 guy doesn't, there is a huge weight difference, or the Raptor isn't setup and your bike is... I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying something else isn't right....

Jorge... He is actually looking for a new motor of this type... I was working with him on a complete top to bottom Cheetah 4 mil w/ PVs...but a little out of his price range. Put it on Craigslist....that's how it's gonna sell. I can't believe you're getting rid of this bike after all the time/money you just put into it.... Are you getting out of street racing?

Lack of lubrication. You most likely did that from overheating (Lean) or have an air leak. 110PSI at your elevation for a used motor is not bad...to be honest. The fact you have to pull start it tells me there is bigger problems...that will only get more expensive to repair. You need to do a complete leak down test on it to see if it's leaking air anywhere. What kind of oil are you using, and at what mixture? Is your fuel system clean? Screen in tank, carbs clean, etc...?

If you put a sock over his air filter and flatten a tire, you have a chance.. 700s are no joke whatsoever. Porting...you can not bolt enough parts on to beat him, unless Nitrous is one of them.

I have a stock head I no longer need. Ran it on my cub all last year. I have a Chariot Head that works great now. The paint is sandblasted off. Cut for the big bore, 68mm pistons. Shaved and re chambered for alky/race gas. 20cc. Made 185PSI on my 10 mil cub, 500 foot above sea level, .020 base gasket, stock porting cleaned up. It will take the same Oring that you'd use for domes in a Noss or Coolhead, RTV or Yamabond to seal the water jackets. 70 shipped. Add 3% for paypal. Will ship via Fed Ex with tracking number once payment is received. Will have pics up later.

WTF?? You must ride a "grizzly"..... I'm sure no one goes into a dealer and orders parts for a YFZ...when they mean banshee. get over yourself.... I've never called my bike a YFZ, regardless of the moniker in front from the factory. Do you tell the dealer your VIN number when ordering parts? That makes about as much sense as what you're trying to say.... You clearly came here to run your mouth. If this was an "informative" post, it would be in GENERAL not ROOSTING room....

No offense to my brother Jeff, he has to carry those for buyers...but they're junk. If you're going to go aftermarket ignition, go with a Dyna. It's the only aftermarket CDI worth a scrap.... I've seen those cheap 100 dollar aftermarket boxes burn out quicker than stockers....stock ignition on banshees is actually very good. If you have the time to program the dyna to your needs, I say go for it. I had one, never had time to hit the dyno, and I sold it to go back to stock....and I just use a plate.

Craig... A lot of us will be up the weekend before for the ATV bash. It's a huge race as the track near there. Not too many can afford going to the dunes two weekends in a row... It will be packed for the 4th, too. You probably won't see quite as many fast drag bikes on the 4th as you would on Memorial or Labor day weekends. I'm NOT saying there wont' be fast bikes there....so, no offense to anyone. I think that a lot of us that live 3 to 5 hours away can't afford two weekends a row in the dunes...and I know alot of our track buddies will be there for the bash. Craig....if my sparkies will fit, I will send them there with JT for you to use. They fit T5 and Shearer silencers that I know of (round style) You're more than welcome to 'em!!

Fat girls need love too...just ask firehead.

So insurance pays him back for all the TIME and money he spent on it? Insurance doesn't pay you back for the violated feeling either.... And I've called 6 different companies, big and small...and they won't cover the bike you see in my signature for what it'd cost me to rebuild it. What good is 1200 blue book when that will buy me tires and a cylinder??? It'd cost me 10 to 12 K to build my bike from scratch.... Whether he had insurance or not...that's fucking wrong....period...unless he's stole everything he's ever received.

Who gives a flying fuck if he lives in a trailer or in a million dollar castle. Theft is theft...WTF is wrong with you. Unless he's peddling dope or stole to buy that 600K house, it's wrong...period.

Check your sent items, I'm sure that's the source....

That's what I was thinking too...the Vforce shouldn't make a lick of difference starting the bike, unless they were bad...which isn't 100% out of the question.

Doesn't matter which side they go on and there is no upside down, either. Moving the clip one spot towards the blunt end will lean it out, but...that won't make a lick of difference in the starting, only 1/4 to 3/4 throttle... For the hell of it, turn each air screw in 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

I don't think thicker oil is going to solve a mechanical problem, only band aid it.

Post up some pics....sorry to hear. It doesn't matter where you live....any one can be victim, there's scumbags all over looking for the free ride. In Vegas, it was some dirtball who gambled away his last dollar and had to pay some bills...I'd bet. Good luck to ya...post pics. If you need help posting pics let me know.

Vforce sometimes requires leaning out the needle clip. You installed something wrong... Slides in the right carb, choke tube back in place? Did you seal up the intakes real good.

Cubs come in 65mm and 68mm bore. (If you get them coated for nikasil. A SMALL minority get the cast for steel sleeves) Super Cubs come in a 72mm bore. Cheetahs have bores all over the board, starting at 65mm I believe....and go up to 74 or 75mm bore, I think. They have Oringed cylinders and LARGER intakes on them as well. And they have a larger stroke option...too. They were around long before the cubs. Cubs were designed to use stock banshee components, reed cages, pipes, head, etc....